I don't see anything in either code that prohibits it. P2705.1 of the IECC Residential code (2015) doesn't appear to mention it at all, and the UPC 412 (from 2018 at least) is about Urinals (whether or not a shower constitutes a urinal if you pee in the shower is out of scope of the UPC). :) UPC 408.9 mentions it this way: "Control valves and shower heads should be mounted on the sidewall of shower compartments or otherwise arranged so that the water does not discharge at the entrance of the compartment so that so that the bather can adjust the valves before stepping into the shower spray" So nothing to do specifically with the thing pointed at the door, moreso can you turn on the water without being sprayed by it, which is a good idea anyway since that first blast is likely to be quite cold.

Thank you all! >>how thick is the piece?Have mentioned above, 1/4".. it would be better using 3/8 or 1/2". Yes, it's too flimsy using 1/4". When I take a long hot shower, [I like to do that] the door slightly warps a little and when stepping out of the shower, in a couple of minutes it's straight again. I will stiffen it up a little, got some round alum. tubing, couldn't find any square, it would be easier to mount but round will do, will post pictures when done. >>And do you mean that you *made* the hanging hardware?Yes, I'm a machinist, some of you perhaps have a home shop with lathe, otherwise you could get it done in a machine shop. Have cut 6 pieces from a 3" round stock into equal length about 1/4" long then turned one side flat, rough for good silicone bond, top and bottom and inside plastic, door grip, the other side smooth, a slight taper for water to run off easily, [bottom only] drilled about a 3/16 hole thru, where the turned down end of a 3/8" diameter shaft, [welded to the back plate, door] fits into the hole for swivel, [bottom] the top is basically the same, except the end of the 3/8" shaft has a 3/4" sleeve, about 1 1/2" long over it, so I can push the sleeve up, into the hole, the end of the 3/4" sleeve, which is also turned down will fit the hole. Make it nice and loose, about 1/64" top and about 1/32 the bottom base, because the tiles, [bottom] are slightly tilted inward for drainage, this way, heaving it nice and loose, the door will not bind. I'm not too concerned about scratches, as you have mentioned, there is not a whole lot what can scratch, the only time is when you clean it perhaps. But I don't intend to this too often because after heaving a shower, the door will be open to the inside of the shower until the next shower takes place, for good air flow and drying up. Water stains on the door can be hardly seen from the outside. It will be a "lazy", care free shower LOL. A better picture with flash, seeing the true color. bottom mount ... .. Top mount... As mentioned, using 3/8 stainless steel rod with 3/4" sleeve on top. This shaft is on thin side, It all depends how long you will have this rod, on how much opening your door has on top, this works for me with a light door like this, perhaps a little too much flex, next time I would use 1/2" diameter. .. Konrad

Hi we just put our shower panel, return panel and door in recently and am very happy with the clamps. So Happy! I think I would be very unhappy with the uchannel and header. In fact, the 1st estimator would only install the unchannel and header. I was very bummed to get that esitmate...but after pereservering, The 2nd and 3rd esitmates said they could use the clamps, but would have to put the panel all the way to the ceiling ( we were missing a stud for the door side so they need to use the ceiling for extra support) It might be a trickier install, but it looks so much better. We also did not cualk at the base so a little bit of water comes out at shower time, but I would rather clean up water than have a gloppy moldy mess from the silicone caulk. I hope I can post pictures soon. Good Luck!

Thanks for the feedback. I talked to the people at Artistcraft and they thought it would be feasible to do a fixed panel on the left side with a 6" high transom that was hinged to the top of the frame. The door would be hinged on the right wall and seal against the fixed panel and transom. Talked to the local shop and they said they would not do this because of safety liability reasons, even though they were quoting me on a framed enclosure that would have a steam tight seal. Is this really a good idea? I asked them if there wouldn't be a bigger safety issue with an airtight room. That's when they got snotty. I was hoping to use them since I live in mid-Michigan and would like to steer business locally. In the end, I think we'll do something similar to what annkathryn suggests. I'm not that thrilled dealing with the rude people at the shop, but they seem to be the only game in town. Beautiful work as usual, Bill. Here is a kind of crappy photo of our project. Thanks again, mrs517