Bill V. Thanks so much for responding! I have been planning my purchases for this phase and waiting anxiously for a response to my floor questions :) So Bill V., regarding #5 question - I'm asking just about the plumbing rough-ins, like the hole for the toilet, and the "through the floor" tub plumbing pipes. I would think that the plumber would want to cut through the plywood and subfloor before the SLC is in. I haven't asked my plumber Kevin yet what he wants, and he is ultimately who will make the call. But if I could pour before he made his rough-ins it would be easier for me to not have to work around the extra plumbing and openings. Another question about the SLC - is the SLC not strong enough for the weight of the tub? I was going to install the tub after the SLC, I didn't even question this one. I have a standard tub, alcove type. So, I would think that when installing the tub, before SLC, I would want to caulk the tub at the floor to prevent the SLC from seeping in under the tub. I will have one end of the tub open, for a built in cabinet that will come after I tile the floor including this area. This cabinet will house the plumbing. I will need to create some sort of dam at this end. Staceyneil posted some time ago about how she made a successful SLC pour and described how she made a dam out of 2x's. Again thanks so much for your input.

thx so much for your input on it. I'd probably end up with the same amount of counter space. It'd have to go next to the wall to the right of the sink (with about a 16" space in between) - where the fridge is now. I'd have to move the fridge over to the other end (left of the stove). I could make it a 'wall unit' thingy - putting the micro on top of it - which would put the micro at a good level for me. the micro would be taking up counter space (or on a shelf under a cabinet) anyway. then the space below it - I'm not sure but was thinking might work out as a 'dog bar' area. Like the recent reno w/ the cat bar. not sure how all that'd look tho. still, it goes back to if I'm paying extra to move the plumbing and electrical I might as well spend the extra bucks and get a drawer unit... my thinking anyway. I'm waffling on the drawer vs the KA 18". I could save money on the KA and just be grateful for the days I could use it. I figured up and I haven't had a DW since 1990 and i'm still alive. I am planning easy access 'housing' for paper plates and plastic utensils for the bad times anyway. but it was nice to know my friend was thinking of options for me. She did a total remodel of her kitchen about 2 yrs ago. kicked into her garage a few feet to expand it etc. It's a lovely kitchen now. She's been thru it!

First, make sure the floor meets a deflection of no more than L360. I would probably use Ditra to help with flatness (to a degree) act as an isolation membrane and contain spills. Check for the degree of "cupping" by putting two of them face-to-face and see if there is substantial "rocking" of the tiles. If minimal, you can probably get by with HD's Versabond. Try to pick an installer that has experience with plank tile and insist on a 1/3 stagger to minimize lippage. 1/2 stagger WILL accentuate the problem. (don't ask how I know) A leveling system can help the final "tweaking" of the floor and may or may not be necessary...depending on the tile, the floor and the setter. It is not a cure-all.....

You need to ask for a separate quote for each line item. Here's some charges you may not have thought of: 1. Floor material by the sf (plus 10% extra) (I'd check the calculations, also). 2. Transition strips or other specialized molding (stairs?); sometimes has to be stained to match, depending on the product line. 3. Baseboard (you gonna keep what you have or choose something new while you have the chance?) 4. Glue (it's very expensive, and must be the exact type recommended by the manufacturer of the wood floors. Read your specs carefully and inspect the glue product when they bring it. 5. Demo of old flooring. Where I live, that was, as I recall, $2/sf for wood/tile demo and $1/sf for carpet demo. And disposal--better make sure about that. 6. Costs to move your furniture. Make a plan for that. 7. Lastly, floor prep. You won't get an estimate for this, because they can't see what's under your floors until you pull them up. It could be minimal, it could be....maximal.... and this "floor prep" line item was where I ran to Yelp and the BBB and the contractors' state licensing board, and anywhere else out on the internet to find out just how satisfied were all the prior customers. With whom are you entering into a contract ? I chose a local, family-owned independent retailer, in same location for 25 years, with about 100 stellar 4.5-5 star Yelp reviews. I read them all. I did my research because floor is a big-ticket item. I asked a lot of questions about which crew would be my installers, and I specified in the contract which ones would do my install. (The "A-Team" as I called them). I asked for things like: no quarter round (flooring cut more precisely so that the baseboard itself covered the gap; no transition strips in between the flooring and the 2 different types of tile that abuts the floors (this required some artistic ramping up of the wood floors (undetectable); picture frame details around the hearth. In the end, I recall install costing $5.50/sf plus glue ($2000), plus the cost of materials. Maybe it was more than that. It's been awhile. Lastly, you likely haven't thought through installing a floor on top of old floor. How will it meet up with abutting flooring? You will still have to removal all your baseboards and reinstall. That costs as I recall, maybe $1.50/linear foot (plus materials). Probably you will negate any warranty on the flooring. If you are installing near cabinets/kitchen, you won't be able to slide out your appliances.