OK...time to do some math because my numbers do NOT work out to THEIR numbers (but be aware that I'm in a SUPER EXPENSIVE part of N. America so my numbers will be some of the highest this side of Vienna, Austria). To be clear, your quote seems LOW to me...which is already a red flag...but it could be local markets at work.

Everything is based on 1200sf of install...you have a total of $7500 for material+labour = $7500/1200 = $6.25/sf for wood+labour...hmmm. Something's henky.

1. Installing a nail-in-place factory finished hardwood = $2/sf

2. That means only $4.25/sf is the cost of your materials. That seems low to me.

3. Demolition + disposal + PLYWOOD = $1.89/sf which is WAY too low!

In my area, you are already at $2/sf for removal+disposal. Then laying a new plywood subfloor = $2/sf ($1/sf for material + $1/sf for labour). In my books the prep should be closer to $4800. And the cost of the wood floor+ labour to install is way too low.

I would guess the wood material should be $6.25/sf. and labour would be extra. The details of this product SCREAM out a price HIGHER than $6.25/sf. It is a 7.44" wide plank (9/16" thick...which is a snick thin but whatever) with European Oak wear layer (very pricey).

A wide plank engineered will require 'glue assist' which means this needs a plywood subfloor OR a hardwood that has been SANDED CLEAN of finish (glues do NOT like to grab old finish which means the hardwood NEEDS to come out or be SANDED CLEAN). A glue-assist install adds another $1-$2/sf onto the cost of installation...and the price offered is TOO LOW for a regular nail down install.

I'm sorry but these numbers are VERY low. I do NOT think they include cost of LABOUR. I can buy the $6.25/sf for the hardwood (dealer pricing could be that low) and I can buy the cost of plywood and DISPOSAL of the old harwood but I cannot see any LABOUR costs here.

Whomsoever you have used could lose their shirt on this one! Which means you could be left with a half-hearted job or a job only half finished.

Again, I'm in an expensive area so my numbers could be skewed too high for your area...but my instincts are telling me you are not seeing the real numbers that will come at you as a 'surprise' once they have 'won' the bid.

You are dealing with hacks. The numbers are way too cheap, and insufficient prep is included.

You need to ask for a separate quote for each line item. Here's some charges you may not have thought of:

1. Floor material by the sf (plus 10% extra) (I'd check the calculations, also).

2. Transition strips or other specialized molding (stairs?); sometimes has to be stained to match, depending on the product line.

3. Baseboard (you gonna keep what you have or choose something new while you have the chance?)

4. Glue (it's very expensive, and must be the exact type recommended by the manufacturer of the wood floors. Read your specs carefully and inspect the glue product when they bring it.

5. Demo of old flooring. Where I live, that was, as I recall, $2/sf for wood/tile demo and $1/sf for carpet demo. And disposal--better make sure about that.

6. Costs to move your furniture. Make a plan for that.

7. Lastly, floor prep. You won't get an estimate for this, because they can't see what's under your floors until you pull them up. It could be minimal, it could be....maximal.... and this "floor prep" line item was where I ran to Yelp and the BBB and the contractors' state licensing board, and anywhere else out on the internet to find out just how satisfied were all the prior customers. With whom are you entering into a contract ?

I chose a local, family-owned independent retailer, in same location for 25 years, with about 100 stellar 4.5-5 star Yelp reviews. I read them all. I did my research because floor is a big-ticket item. I asked a lot of questions about which crew would be my installers, and I specified in the contract which ones would do my install. (The "A-Team" as I called them).

I asked for things like: no quarter round (flooring cut more precisely so that the baseboard itself covered the gap; no transition strips in between the flooring and the 2 different types of tile that abuts the floors (this required some artistic ramping up of the wood floors (undetectable); picture frame details around the hearth.

In the end, I recall install costing $5.50/sf plus glue ($2000), plus the cost of materials. Maybe it was more than that. It's been awhile.

Lastly, you likely haven't thought through installing a floor on top of old floor.

How will it meet up with abutting flooring? You will still have to removal all your baseboards and reinstall. That costs as I recall, maybe $1.50/linear foot (plus materials). Probably you will negate any warranty on the flooring. If you are installing near cabinets/kitchen, you won't be able to slide out your appliances.

I'm thrilled that you all responded with such helpful info. I think I was unclear...this price was for half the house, not the whole thing...which I need to do in two stages, so just the front room dining room and entry...here is the exact quote:

-Front of Home

Furnish and Install

484.32 sq. ft. to the nearest carton

Allwood Engineered Hardwood, 9/16” x 7 ½” Champagne Character Grade, in the entry, living room and dining room

Include 3 transitions

Include 2 pales of Bostik EFA for Glue assist with nail down installation

Include freight and tax

Total: $7,790.00

Tear out and dispose of existing hardwood

Total: $900.00

Install ¼” Luan Plywood to smooth out subfloor

Total: $1,300.000

Install new MDF Coronado Base, Paint Grade 4 ¼”

Total: $440.00

Total for Front of Home: $10,430.00

New moldings are extra, disposal of old floor and a new subfloor are all extra, included in this price is moving and covering of furnishings.

They are a reputable local company with good yelp reviews...which hasn't always worked out in the past so I take this with a grain of salt

I too am in a very high cost of living area and things usually cost more, san francisco bay area.

I was surprised that the $7790 only includes the floor and laying it and not the above...but from what you are all saying this now sounds normal....I believe the floor was quoted at about $7.20sqf...it will be glued and nailed.

I am still wondering if I should put it over my old floors, levels will be ok for the transitions, not sure on the 2 doors

Thank you alll again for the help

Now that sounds better. I'm not fond of luan...but it is useful in many ways because it is thin and cheap.

Even if you went over top of the old hardwood, you are only saving $900. That's it. That's all. They STILL MUST LAY the luan OVER TOP of the old hardwood. You will not be saving that cost. The $1300 stays. The $1300 is for floor LEVELING which cannot be missed!

You will then have issues with doorways. Imagine having to take down and TRIM all your doors! That is FIDDLY STUFF! I mean PITA cr@pola that NO ONE in their RIGHT MIND volunteers to do (ahem..."hate" maybe a strong word but it comes in handy right about now). The $900 you save on removal of the old floor = same cost as trimming all doors in the home. And sometimes that doesn't work out so well.

The breakdown you have been given is VERY GOOD! In fact it is excellent. The cost of the flooring ($7.20/sf) is 'dealer priced' because you are getting all the work done through the company. For the width of the plank and the European Oak finish (how thick is the wear layer...I couldn't see it on any website) they've given you a great deal.

With what I'm seeing for 500sf with EVERYTHING spelled out = perfect for what needs doing (in an expensive market).

Question: can the old floors be refinished?

thank you so much, I feel much better about the project and the price.

I hate my hardwood floors( red oak with too much grain, dented everywhere), I have lived with them for 35 years, they are probably 75 years old, I have had them refinished twice and about 10 years ago I painted them. I actually love them painted but they are a lot of work to keep clean with a 85lb shepard. Also to have them repainted, so many coats of paint and finish, they then need to cure without the dog for a few weeks and I just don;'t see that happening..It's also expensive to have them painted properly, about half the cost of hardwood. So I'm looking for an easier solution for the rest of my time in this house.

SJ McCarthy thank you so much for your generosity of time and knowledge!

Oak, thank you for clarifying that.

One more thing. With flooring you almost always get what you pay for. That means if you have somebody offering to do work for 1/2 the price or offering product for 1/3 the price its most likely garbage product that wont last and will look bad in short order. There are not short cuts in flooring.