No insulation behind drywall?
bert76
14 years ago
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worthy
14 years agobert76
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Insulation/drywall before siding
Comments (11)Section 321.1 "Moisture Vapor Retarders" is found in the old CABO code that preceded the IRC. The 2009 IRC addresses moisture control in in exterior walls in SECTION R601.3 "Vapor Retarders" and effectively confirms Worthy's comments: "Class I or II vapor retarders are required on the interior side of frame walls in Zones 5, 6, 7, 8 and Marine 4. Exceptions: Basement walls. Below grade portion of any wall. Construction where moisture or its freezing will not damage the materials. R601.3.1 Class III vapor retarders. - Class III vapor retarders shall be permitted where any one of the conditions in Table R601.3.1 is met. TABLE R601.3.1 CLASS III VAPOR RETARDERS ZONE Marine 4 - CLASS III VAPOR RETARDERS PERMITTED FOR (a): Vented cladding over OSB Vented cladding over plywood Vented cladding over fiberboard Vented cladding over gypsum Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 2.5 over 2X4 wall Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 3.75 over 2X6 wall Zone 5 - CLASS III VAPOR RETARDERS PERMITTED FOR (a): Vented cladding over OSB Vented cladding over plywood Vented cladding over fiberboard Vented cladding over gypsum Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 5 over 2X4 wall Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 7.5 over 2X6 wall Zone 6 - CLASS III VAPOR RETARDERS PERMITTED FOR (a): Vented cladding over fiberboard Vented cladding over gypsum Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 7.5 over 2X4 wall Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 11.25 over 2X6 wall Zone 7 and 8 - CLASS III VAPOR RETARDERS PERMITTED FOR (a): Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 10 over 2X4 wall Insulated sheathing with R-value âÂÂ¥ 15 over 2X6 wall [For SI: 1 pound per cubic foot = 16.02 kg/m3.] (a). Spray foam with a minimum density of 2 lb/ft3 applied to the interior cavity side of OSB, plywood, fiberboard, insulating sheathing or gypsum is deemed to meet the insulating sheathing requirement where the spray foam R-value meets or exceeds the specified insulating sheathing R-value. R601.3.2 Material vapor retarder class. The vapor retarder class shall be based on the manufacturer's certified testing or a tested assembly. The following shall be deemed to meet the class specified: Class I: Sheet polyethylene, unperforated aluminum foil. Class II: Kraft-faced fiberglass batts. Class III: Latex or enamel paint....See MorePlaster in finished attic replaced with insulation and drywall
Comments (5)I do think from your description that the failure of the drywall ceiling is a result of lack of venting between the top of the insulation material and the underside of the roof. For starters, I would poke around and see if you have pre-formed (often pink, but possibly blue) foam pieces with ridges tucked up under the roof. These are installed between the rafters in cathedral ceilings (which is technically what you have from an insulation point of view, no matter how garrett-y your rooms feel). If not, then that's your problem (or problems) in a nut shell. You can research this on the Owens-Corning website which has lots of instructions about venting cathedral-style roofs. And you can look over these pieces at any Home Depot/Lowes. It will make sense when you see them. You may need to remove, install roof venting and replace the wall/ceiling surfaces. The plaster may be damaged more from aggressive removal of adjacent surfaces than from roof deflection, but one can't tell without studying it. And you may also need additional venting on the kneewalls now that the attic has been converted into living space which generates a good deal of moisture. You can cut down on this by installing proper vent fans for the kitchenette and bathroom areas, but you will still need under-roof ventilation, if not soffit vents, as well. It sounds as though the attic work was done by DIY amateurs. And that brings me to the most serious point that occurred to me: is it possible your attic has been converted into living space on the QT, and without benefit of building inspections, permits, (and unfortunately, increased property taxes) etc.? It may seem like a persnickety issue, but the chief risk in my opinion is that your attic living space - if done sub-rosa -might not have sufficient, legal, means of egress in an emergency. If you never have an emergency, it might not matter, but in the case of fire, inadequate escape routes can lead to the death of occupants and firefighters attempting a rescue. This is a very serious risk, and not one I'd care to undertake; it has the potential for devastating financial, legal, and even criminal consequences. While you noodle on that risk, you can research the catherdral ceiling vent issues on line. If you think structural compromise might be the reason for the plaster cracking, then an old-house friendly structural engineer (and many are not) would be the one you need. Consultations with roofers, insulation contractors and plasterers will not resolve the central issues and may lead to unnecessary, off-point work at this stage. Aside from permitting issues, however it doesn't sound that dire, though ripping and venting and replacing the wall and ceiling surfaces won't be any fun in the heat of the summer. HTH, Molly~...See MoreDrywall Estimate
Comments (29)Great helpful answers here. Not a pro and don't possess this knowledge..but went through gutting the house due to asbestos abatement, and had to put the walls back (obviously)) The asbestos wasn't in drywall sheets themselves..it was in joint compound however, so no way to take it partially out..it had to be gutted. The moment we decided to proceed with abatement. Nobody will know whether yours have it or not without the testing. Did the PO change the drywall during last 15 years? If no-I'd have it professionally tested..if you're sure you want to disturb it of course. It all good until it's disturbed, as you probably know. Now. The comment about how drywalling is a huge skill is extremely true. It's a damn hard job, and from my (limited experience) having this skill is not a given at all. even if somebody does drywall for a living-it doesn't mean you'll like his work. We weren't blessed with a great drywall team, and most of all questionable spots in the house were a direct result /heavily affected by their work. Not only my opinion as the GC became so frustrated with their work he fired them in the end and got somebody else to finish the job. He should do it sooner rather than later but oh well....See MoreRecessed horizontal metal piece behind bathroom drywall
Comments (1)That is the old (metal) electrical wall box support. If it is in good, stable condition, you could mount a new recessed electrical wall box to it. Your electrical connection for the fixture must be in a wall box, also provides mounting/fastening location for the fixture, depending on fixture type....See Moreworthy
14 years agobert76
14 years agoworthy
14 years agobert76
14 years agoworthy
14 years agoweedyacres
14 years ago
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