Insulation/drywall before siding
oceannova
11 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (11)
brickeyee
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Help Please - Lots of Wet Drywall and Insulation
Comments (17)Hi jgirl,Your doing it the smart way not roofing until after stucco.Out here,in order to insulate and dry wall, it has to be roofed and lathed, but cant be stucco'd until after drywall. I dont subscribe to the theory that hanging drywall will knock stucco off the walls, but that's what the county wants in the order they want it, so we gotta do it their way or the highway. We will face the chance that the stucco crew will slop on our shingles.They seem pretty professional in the way they lathed the house cleaning up after themselves and we asked them to be careful with the roof. They said that's a standard practice on all their projects to keep the shingled areas covered and they come highly refered to us, so i hope it works out. The route you are taking is the best route,imo. Scratch/brown coating is the first two coats of cementious based coats that are applied before the acrylic color coat. The scratch coat is applied rough, then the brown which is smooth and corners formed,(bullnose in our case),and somewhat smooth.Those two coats are allowed to sit for 30 days to allow for cracking, then the color coat.We are going for an old world texture.Best of luck on the rest of your build....See Moreplaster ceiling: remove before drywall?
Comments (4)There are three problems, no? One is that danged blown-in insulation but that can be ignored for the most part. I have it; I did it to myself and it's a remodeler's bane. The second is the falling ceiling. Other than R&R, you have two choices: pull it up to the overhead joists or push it up from below with 2X4s. I can think of different scenarios where one way would be better than the other, and vice versa. Betcha it's heavy! How short of a span do you have where you could push up a heavy ceiling with 2X4s, also loading them with more drywall and mud, and not induce some sag? Can you support this ceiling plane from above in the attic? snoonyb suggests keeping things light, so the 1X4s he recommends would be actual,battens. In regards to claustrophobia inducements, do you have a high ceiling to start with?...See MoreNew insulation, damp drywall
Comments (0)I am trying to figure out a remedy. We used a reputable insulation contractor to blow-in some fiberglass and some foam. The fiberglass went in large cavities and the foam into the sidewalls. The foam is low expansion, has no off gas and is water catalyzed. The foam we could see dried out completely in a few hours. We were told the foam in the walls would be dry in a few days, maybe a week. The stuff is retro foam by a company called Polymaster. We have ancient but good condition stucco over solid wood sheathing on the diagonal... On the inside, most walls are plaster except for the outside walls of the kitchen, the first floor bath and the second floor bath. The drywall in the kitchen and first floor bath is about ten years old, the second floor bath is about 5 years old. They were insulated with 4" fiberglass bats before the drywall was done. It is now two weeks later. I had paint already picked out because the places with fiberglass were blown in from the inside. Most of the plaster seems in good shape. There were a few plaster cracks and some water marks on some of the plaster, but much less than I had expects. However, the drywall is a completely different story. Every bit of drywall feels all spongy. There are places where the paint has bubbled up in quarter size bits. If you grab one, you can peel up square feet of paint - all the way down to the original drywall compound and sometimes picking off damp face paper. We ripped two small holes through the drywall in the kitchen and discovered that the foam was still damp and not set. The first floor smells like damp drywall. This is after running exhaust fans, running the ac and dehumidifier for two weeks and airing the house out over night. So this is what I need help with... The contractor is coming to discuss the problem. My guess is that we will be best off to simply strip the drywall, strip the fiberglass, and wait another two weeks and re-drywall when everything is perfectly dry and we can all check for molds. Striping the outside walls isn't simple in the kitchen because the base cabinets have a granite counter. The upstairs bath has a tile wall and the kitchen has a tile backsplash. I have every confidence that attempting to remove the granite would destroy the cabinets - the cabinets are frameless and have a solid top. So.. What is best to do from here RIGHT NOW and what should I ask the contractor to do. TIA, jill...See Moreinsulation before siding
Comments (8)@ksc36, perhaps you know something that all of the scientists that study mold do not, please share. We recently went through this due to mold during framing of our house and a daughter-in-law who is very susceptible to mold spores. The consistent response from everyone we talked with is that once mold begins growing in wood there is no chemical that will kill it. If you get the wood dry, kill the mold on the surface, and the wood stays dry (ideally below 45% RH but minimally below 60% RH) then there is a good chance that the spores will remain dormant and not cause problems. If the wood gets moist then the mold will begin to grow and since it is growing from colonies of dormant spores it will grow and spread very quickly. This is the situation that seems to cause the most health problems for people....See Moreoceannova
11 years ago
worthy
11 years agoUser
11 years agooceannova
11 years agoUser
11 years agoLOTO
11 years agooceannova
11 years agoworthy
11 years agoUser
11 years ago
Related Stories
GREEN BUILDINGInsulation Basics: Heat, R-Value and the Building Envelope
Learn how heat moves through a home and the materials that can stop it, to make sure your insulation is as effective as you think
Full Story
REMODELING GUIDESCool Your House (and Costs) With the Right Insulation
Insulation offers one of the best paybacks on your investment in your house. Here are some types to discuss with your contractor
Full Story
MATERIALSInsulation Basics: What to Know About Spray Foam
Learn what exactly spray foam is, the pros and cons of using it and why you shouldn’t mess around with installation
Full Story
GREEN BUILDINGInsulation Basics: Natural and Recycled Materials
Consider sheep’s wool, denim, cork, cellulose and more for an ecofriendly insulation choice
Full Story
KNOW YOUR HOUSEKnow Your House: The Basics of Insulated Concrete Form Construction
Get peace and quiet inside and energy efficiency all around with this heavy-duty alternative to wood-frame construction
Full Story
MATERIALSRaw Materials Revealed: Drywall Basics
Learn about the different sizes and types of this construction material for walls, plus which kinds work best for which rooms
Full Story
HOUSEKEEPINGQuick Fix: How to Patch a Drywall Hole
Dents and dings disappear, leaving your walls looking brand new, with this fix that even a novice can do
Full Story
GREEN BUILDINGInsulation Basics: Designing for Temperature Extremes in Any Season
Stay comfy during unpredictable weather — and prevent unexpected bills — by efficiently insulating and shading your home
Full Story
WINDOW TREATMENTSEasy Green: 9 Low-Cost Ways to Insulate Windows and Doors
Block drafts to boost both warmth and energy savings with these inexpensive but effective insulating strategies
Full Story
LIFE7 Things to Do Before You Move Into a New House
Get life in a new house off to a great start with fresh paint and switch plates, new locks, a deep cleaning — and something on those windows
Full Story
oceannovaOriginal Author