The urine is highly nitrogenized....it has burned the spots. Nothing will make the grass come back. If you have a garden or otherwise edging where the lawn stops, try to imagine where you might clean up the edges, maybe make a better curve to a garden plot. There, take some plugs. Measure the areas of the affected parts. Then use the same measures to cut free from the edges of the garden a plug. Be sure the edges are cleaned up...measure beyond the burn mark. Then place the plug in and stomp on. The plug will do the job within a short time. Otherwise, give your lawn a chance to fix itself. Usually just giving your lawn a decent amount of nitrogen fertilizer will help fill in the blanks. The place where your dogs have selected to go should be regularly watered extra to try to alleviate the problem before it becomes a problem. Overseeding in the spring when the soil begins to warm up is always a good idea. Anytime we can make our lawns more lush is the much better way to defend against those things that attack it....including pests and weeds.

Post 1 reply.- Here´s the situation, we don´t know if the dog is allergic to something and we can´t find out until the animal is exposed to the allergen and the allergy manifests, the animal may be allergic to something in the diet, either to the protein source ( animal or vegetable meal ) or to the carbohidrate source ( vegetable flours ), some animals may be allergic to both, the protein source and the vegetable source, why is this ? we don´t know for sure but we do know that certain protein and carbohidrate sources are more allergenic than others, soy ( soy meal ) and corn gluten is known by us as one of the most allergenic protein sources, the same way we know that corn is one of the most allergenic carbohidrate souces, however some animals are allergic to chicken, others are allergic to turkey, others are allegic to certain fish species, others are allergic to several at the same time; the situation here is that most dogs are not allergic to any of them, therefore the food companies manufacture foods for the vast majority of the population, the system is fine but not infalible, I say not infalible because within that population there are individualities, problem arises when you have the bad luck of owning one of those individualities, it´s like purchasing a lottery ticket and winning the lottery. When the generality does not apply to individuals is when you have to find the solution to a problem. In many cases the same companies that manufacture the food offer alternatives to treat those individuals that do not adjust to the general population in the form of special diets with different protein and carbohidrate sources, if that company doesn´t offer them there are other companies that do and if that doesn´t work there are other alternatives, there´s always light at the other end of the tunnel. I´ve been to the Purina facilities and labs in St Louis, not only the test facilties are extraordinary but the degree of professionalism of the people working there in all the departments is overwhelming, they make good quality products. Post 2 reply.- Hot spots represent a particular problem, first the animal has the hotspot reaction, it itches and hurts, the animal licks or scratches, to an already damaged area the animal adds the trauma of licking and/or scratching, since the integrity of the skin is broken then bacteria begin to grow infecting the area, which causes more itching and more pain, more licking, more scratching, more trauma and so on, what started as a very small area in a matter of days it becomes a huge problematic area because it extends; I´ve had cases where they bring me a dog attatched to hot spot, yep, that big is the hot spot. The use of local anesthesics like lidocaine in hot spots is contraindicated. Hot spots have bacteria growing in them, local anesthesics like lidocaine are methabolized by the bacteria and use it to grow. The only local anesthesic is use is ice to make the area numb while the procedure is taking place

I don't disagree with anything above. That said, in over fifty years of dog ownership, I've never had a dog that required dental care, to include cleaning. I have never brushed their teeth. Always fed a quality kibble and for decades have not fed any "treats" other than a few pieces of kibble. Many of the years I had dogs the breed was (English) Bulldogs. Arguably, their teeth do not lend themselves to even contact with hard kibble as their teeth are generally not "straight." I currently have but one dog - she is a 6 year old Greyhound that I got from the track in Tampa, Florida. I've had her for 1 1/2 years. Greyhounds right off the track are notorious for having bad teeth as they had been fed an exclusively soft diet while at the track. (My girl now gets a quality kibble with no treats,as described above.) For the first time, I have added to steps to my dog's regimen as re to dental care. Once a day I give her a large Greenie, which she chews on vigorously for about 5-10 minutes. Cost like a buck a day! I also have been adding a "splash" of a liquid additive called, Tropiklean Fresh Breath. Cost like peanuts a day. With this dog I also have been adding Solid Gold Seameal (It's seaweed) to her kibble. Cost maybe 20 cents a day. I do this only because I found a Brit Veterinary Study that suggested seaweed fed to dogs may reduce dental bacteria by killing it. The only reason I am posting is to share my concern for my current dog's dental care because of the total lack of support that she received for the nearly five years before she came to my home. I am NOT advocating a course of treatment, but did want to mention that as seemingly important daily cleaning may sound, that there are people that do not do that and have had a positive result - in my case for over half a century.

rhizo_1 - we had a Terrier who had an abscess - that swelled up overnight. Too many teeth in a small mouth. We took him to the vet right away and he had surgery. And, yes, the abscess was painful - at least his sure was. But before that he was not exhibiting any pain - but was already booked in for a cleaning etc. Quin La - Our current dog is almost 15. He has had a few dentals as he is inclined to develop tartar - plus he has had a few teeth removed. I am certain that he will require another dental in Jan. - shape of face, tartar, refusal to have his teeth brushed (we have tried everything). If our vet recommends it we will go ahead. These days they will allow for age and there are different methods for sedating the pet. But blood panel and EKG are very important - as is a morning pee sample in case of higher than normal kidney values. It is necessary to take in the sample a few days in advance. If the kidney values are higher than normal the IV must stay in longer. Our dog has higher than normal kidney values and this worked well last year. Note also that teeth are considered "dirty" surgeries and are done last after spay/neuters etc. Time of day that the pet has his teeth cleaned/extractions will determine how much zip the pet has at pick-up. Our dog has to go in the night before because he is a serious food hoover - he will eat anything so not much we can do because he would pick up something for sure. Since we live in a major city in Canada, the cost is very high! for dentals (and anything else). If you end up having to get a morning pee - good luck! I was successful last week for a kidney values check - but many people are not. Two people were at the vet clinic asking them to do it. The vet told me how to do it but I checked on the internet and read some hilarious stories of how many pups always "go" in the same manner, in the same spot etc. Except when they know that something is up. The hardest are dogs who lift their legs or squat - depending on what they feel like at the time. Then of course there is the slamming down of the foot if raised and the loss of some of the urine. It is very hard at the moment because it is dark out. I use one thing to collect the urine and then pour it into a container from the vet. I always allow a few days to collect the morning pee just in case.