Truzella: I have a Craftsman corded electric trimmer/edger/trencher. The head can be pivoted to function as a trimmer or edger. In the edger position it can be set at a slight cant to dig a shallow trench. In the edger and trencher position it absolutely takes the grass out when edging, but a very narrow strip. As a shallow trencher, it tears out the grass when you have it trenching with a hard surface facing the blade, but just makes an angled slot when you have a soft surface on both sides of the blade. Sorry to hear your Mantis is not giving you the desired results. Fairyprincess

Alotofplants, often what happens with many ideas about clematis is that what was initially thought about them came from the British and their experience with them. This information is parroted along by everyone and it often takes a long time to get the information corrected. (As far as googling to get information on the web, you can probably find information out there that will support any position.) As an example about info that is parroted about clematis, take for example the idea that clematis are difficult plants to grow. Nothing is further from the truth especially if you give them what they need and you choose a variety that is suited to your area. The same is true about how some types of clematis are better suited to growing in a conservatory. Clematis fremontii and other similar types are grown in England either inside or in containers because they have trouble with them dieing off over the winter. I took this information to heart and planted my fremontii in a pot based on that information. I then learned of quite a few people here in the states, some in the cold north, who have been growing theirs outside in the ground for several years. As a result, mine are now in the ground and are doing fine. Yet, another myth out there circulating is that clematis need cool root runs. What they like is the moisture that is associated with cool root runs, that is moisture. The plants can exist in pots that get quite hot in the summer if they are provided the moisture, which is what they really need. Janet, if you look in Edith's book, you will also see that she says the following: "The only exception to the rule of not adding lime would be if you live in an area that has a major calcium deficiency. Have your soil tested by a professional soil lab and add lime only if their findings reccomend that you do so." Perhaps this is your issue lotsofplants. Perhaps a soil test would show that your soil lacks calcium that it is getting from the lime and that is what your plant is lacking, not the affect the lime has on your soil pH. I garden in acidic clay soil, have tons of clematis, and have never added lime to my soil. How can I grow them in acidic soil and you not? Perhaps the issue is calcium or some other deficiency in your soil that is being helped by a microcomponent in the lime and not the pH affect caused by the lime. Edith goes on to say: "I have found that in this country it is better to grow clematis in the more acidic planting situation of a pH of 6.5. Growing clematis in an acidic location is important for gardeners who live in areas where there is little rainfall." In another section of her book, Edith states that lime can inhibit clematis from utilizing essential nutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc from the soil. The bottom line is that unless you have investigated your soil conditions via a soil test, you don't really know if the lime is doing anything for your clematis or whether it is really needed. Something else may be the actual cause of clematis failing to thrive and lime may be just adding that extra ingredient. The pH affect may be totally unrelated. Excuse my insistence on fact and investigation, but it comes from graduating college with a chemistry major and biology minor. I am a science nerd and proud of it! LOL

Hi guys! Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. Joe, I think you're spot-on (if you'll pardon the pun!); I did some research on early blight and it looks exactly like what I have on my leaves. I'm concerned about cutting off the entire leaves though- that'll be half of them!! Do you suppose I could just cut off the spotted parts first? I guess it's worth a shot, at least. No, I don't top water, but my topsy-turvy strawberry planter (which, I might add, is crap!) is directly above it, which I suppose amounts to the same thing. I'll see if I can find another spot for it, though that may be tricky with the space I'm working with! Damon & Colo. Springs: I think you may be right. My mix does seem to be very water-retentive. I think I'll try watering a little less; the plants have quadrupled in size since I've put them in so I'm sure they must have pretty well-established root systems by now, so as you pointed out, I may simply have to live with it. I had no idea I should use so much bark in my mix- I'd never have thought of that! Well, at least it's better than my first try at container growing tomatoes-- I had a Big Boy in an 8 inch by 8 inch container with nothing but topsoil... so I'm improving! :p

here's a formula that works fine; omit the two a's that I inserted , and leave no space ( if I don't break up the formula, the formula shows up a question mark ?) so it should be then "your picture url pasted here" then > as for the url you use, if you right click on your picture, you should get a drop down menu that gives you the option "open in another window", that would be the url to copy and paste. try practicing in the Test forum and see if this works. Here is a link that might be useful: Test forum to practice at