Well, they don't look so clover mite-ish to me, but I sure would like to see more pictures of the little things. Maybe a different angle would help. The little 'egg globes' you're finding in the soil are most likely the prills of a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Hard when first mixed into the soil, they absorb water through tiny micro pores and burst when the volume of water exceeds what the outer shell can hold. This is how the fertilizer is released for plant uptake. Since the prills are different sizes, fertilizer is released at different times over several months.

Beware that the nursery industry lies... Uhhh, gee thanks. :( But, "lies", no. That is an unfair statement. Dry gallons and liquid gallons aren't the same amount. 1 gallon, dry = 1.1636 gallons, liquid So what you are seeing in the nursery industry is a liquid gallon label since that is the U.S. Customary usage but which actually hold the equivalent dry gallon measurement of a dry material like potting soil. A 5 gallon nursery pot will hold 5 gallons of water (if you plug up the drain holes) it just won't hold 5 gallons of potting soil. A 5 gallon paint bucket (liquid) = 4.3 dry gallons. Or approx. 4 dry gallons of soil if not filled to the rim. Dave

For the last 3 years, I've planted my own seedlings which I start outdoors ("winter" sowing). Needless to say, they're not very mature when they go in the ground. Right now there are several varieties, and only one of those varieties has its first true leaves; the others are still at the cotyledon stage. They will be going in the ground over Labor Day weekend (the 28th) regardless of where they are in growth. Maybe they will be 4 inches tall by then. Also for the last three years I've ordered plants online from different vendors, as well as purchasing a few from the local farmers' market. They too, go into the ground around May 28th. All the plants are transplanted over the same weekend. So, we have a mix in levels of maturity at transplant time. By around late July or so, it is virtually impossible to tell by looking at them which plants were transplanted as 4 inch seedlings and which plants were transplanted as 12-18 inch seedlings/plants. The ones that were more immature at transplant set fruit around the same time as the more mature transplants. You wouldn't expect this, but it works out that way. There is some sort of catch-up mechanism going on. Is it because larger plants get quite rootbound, causing them to take longer to settle in when they're transplanted? I honestly don't know, although there has been some research to support that. But, some of the container-started seedlings seem a little rootbound too and have to be untangled from each other. Sometimes I'm too lazy (or run out of time) to pot them up in a larger pot before transplanting. I untangle them and throw them in the ground. There may be a psychological advantage in transplanting more mature plants; they look like progress has been made. And, there's a practical component, too -- they're taller so you're less likely to make a mistake and step on them. Also, they are less likely to be attacked by cutworms or mice if they're taller and thicker. I don't think they shorten the time until harvest, though. At least not by very much. With the exception of cherry varieties and a few other early varieties, they all seem to fruit at about the same time.

What varieties are you all growing? What is the expected size listed (usually in ounces)? I've only seen one person mention varieties, and it sounded like they might be having a heat issue. No one has posted any pictures ... Details! Please! I've grown may varieties of tomato all in pots with no size issues, and I don't just do dwarf varieties ... I've had smaller plant size from using a smaller pot, but fruit is still generally in range, so let's look at other possible reasons. Small tomatoes are likely either a stress or pollination issue. Watering issues will stress a plant ... drastic will cause the whole plant to suffer but borderline may just cause stress that dwarfs or cracks the fruit. Not enough sun will stress the plant and usually cause excessive foliage trying to gather energy from the insufficient light and fewer, smaller fruit trying to conserve energy; these may be seedy due to the plant trying reproduce more efficiently. Heat is a common stresser ... tomatoes don't tolerate cold, but they're not great in heat either ... the fruit ripen too quickly if they set at all. Pests, disease, and and/or improper nutrient level/balance can cause all sorts of issues, too too, but I'd start by looking at water, sun, and heat. Pollination is usually taken care of my insects/pollinators (you know, bees ...) ... if flowers aren't properly pollinated, they won't create proper fruit, either dropping or creating tiny, seedless fruit (no pollen = useless to the plant -> abort mission tomato ... try again with a new flower).