Who laid your sod? All those seams from the sod should not be lined up and should have been laid in a brick pattern. It's not a huge mistake, but the reason you lay it in a brick pattern is to keep the sod pieces from shifting. I would not apply any weed n feed products or pre emergents until your sod has rooted together and you can no longer see the seams in the lawn. Once you start seeing the lawn green up start watering it to keep the soil underneath moist and then you can apply a starter fertilizer or a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10. You are better off spot spraying the weeds over using a weed n feed product. The weed n feed product don't usually work all that well and cost a lot more. Just be sure not to spray weeds when the temps are over 85F as it may harm your lawn. Once all the seams are gone you can start using the Scott's Turf Builder for the rest of the season. You want to apply 1 lb of Nitrogen every 4-6 weeks, this will help keep the grass healthy and choke out a lot of the weeds.

Thanks again for all your help guys! I had a couple more quick questions... Even though the grass is on the "thin" side, it grew enough in height that I could cut it for a second time this week (6 days between mowings). I set the mower so that I only cut about a 1/2" off the top. I wanted to get it cut before this round of rain we're supposed to get this weekend and hopefully to stimulate more growth and filling out up top. Do you guys feel its wise to keep doing this or should I let it grow more? Secondly...as mentioned before, I've stopped all watering due to the amount of rain we've received. We had two good days (yesterday and the day before) without rain. I noticed that the blades began to fold in on themselves a little which I thought was an indication of the need for water. Having said that, I tested the soil and its pretty moist at a 6" depth and the pieces have all taken root to where I can't lift them. If we get some dry days after this rain and I see the blades folding in again, should I continue to hold off on watering and let the soil dry out even more? Sorry for the newbie questions...just waiting for the grass scares me =D I guess it takes some experience to learn its better to give the grass what it actually needs vs. what you think it needs.

Defs looks like 2 lots. Could be different farms. Once everything is growing into your soil, the colors should adjust. I would not walk on it to do anything until roots are in the soil. The chance of pieces shifting is too great before that. I would not back off on the frequent watering until then. Your fertilizer is still sitting in soil that the roots have not grown into yet. Assuming Dr Earth is organic, then the goodness is still there. No need to fertilize again until you have mowed new growth for the second time. Spot spray weeds with Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. Violets need the extra oomph from the WBGCCO. Keep after them. Seeds will continue to sprout new plants. Eventually they will run out of seeds. Check YouTube for chipmunk traps. There should be some that lure them up and into a 5-gallon bucket of water.

You can rent a water fillable roller, possibly even at Home Depot. They are very heavy even before adding water. You likely don't have to add water, especially since no tilling was involved. That is one thing the installer did right (not tilling). The water should be just barely enough to moisten the soil under the sod. If the soil feels soft or squishy, that's way too much water. Check it with a screwdriver, not your feet. You don't want to create holes by walking on it. The screwdriver should go in easily through the sod and then get hard to push in. That will change later on, but for now you just need the surface to be moist so the roots of the sod knit into the underlying soil. Search this forum for "deep and infrequent" to find my (overworked) advice about watering. To address your initial concern, I believe the dead looking grass is dormant and will revive with the daily water. Bermuda is insanely hard to kill, but relatively easy to make dormant. You asked about fertilizer. 419 can take monthly fertilizer with a high N, fast release like uncoated urea (48-0-0). But you don't have to use the super high N ferts or do it every 4 weeks. The point is it is hard to hurt bermuda with fertilizer. Ammonium sulfate is low cost and will provide some minimal amount of acidification to your alkaline soil. AS will also kill all the snails and slugs you might have, so there's a bonus. There are folks around who are successful with monthly applications of an organic fertilizer like corn gluten meal or even alfalfa pellets. Call around to your local feed stores to get prices and availability. They will all have alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow), but only a few will have corn gluten meal. If you want a commercial organic fertilizer, there are many organic nurseries in the Austin area. John Dromgoole has a very nice nursery near the Barton Creek Preserve. Be prepared to follow some strict covid rules. You asked about micronutrients. You'd need a good soil test to know that. Unless you are a die hard TAMU fan, get the $20 soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. When they email the results, post them as a new topic here and morpheuspa will tell you what to apply, how much, when, how often, and why. Search this forum for 'soil test' to see what kind of advice you can expect. You could get similar testing from TAMU but they don't run the full battery of tests unless you pay for the extras. Logan Labs runs the full test every time. As I'm sure morph is reading this, morph, is there anything he needs to tell Logan Labs about his soil? Our typical soil is 1,000 feet deep of limestone with a pH of 8.0. Another issue you might see is nutgrass popping up in the sod. Don't get excited about that. Nutgrass is a swamp type sedge that loves the extra water you're putting out. Once the grass becomes established (early August), you'll back way off on the watering frequency and the nutgrass will disappear/hybernate until we get another multiday rain event. That usually happens for us in September. AT THAT TIME is a good time to put down a preemergent herbicide. The early fall rains is when the Texas wildflower seeds germinate. The little plants immediately go dormant waiting for the cold temps and then the spring conditions to bolt into full sized plants. You can avoid the spring "weeds" with the fall preem applied during that rain event.