Looks like Late Tomato Blight, caused by a fungus (Phytophthora infestans)

Ian

Looks more light early blight caused by alternaria to me. In this case the end result is likely not as disastrous as late blight. Fruits can often be held on the plant till harvest. It's a common disease in vegetable beds and that's what rotating crops is all about. Mulch helps, as does removing the lower foliage and trying to stay ahead of the spread of the disease upward. Lots of suggestions on the inet if you can positively identify it as to the organism causing it.

I have some this year, it's somewhat weather related, but not nearly as bad as I had it last year and part of the reason is that my shipment of straw did not arrive to mulch the beds. I have been faithful however, to keep ahead of it and overall the plants don't look bad, nor does it appear to be spreading much and I'm starting to harvest now.

Once the symptoms are showing, you're too far along to do anything really of consequence with spraying, and I grow my veggies organically anyhow.

Thank you! I don't know how I got it, novice gardner. I cover my garden with a tarp when a lot of rain is coming, plus if hail etc. is possible. Trying to keep out a lot of water so soil in the raised bed isn't wet a long time. I will mulch next year, adding 6" more dirt end of this season, and I did rotate from last years' crops ( if you could call late blight disaster a crop at all). I pluck off color leaves from all my plants 2-3 times a day, hopeing to stem the tide of any diseases. I have topsys hanging from a 12' 2 by 8 running across the garden bed frame but even those plants got so long they touch the ground and got blight on the ends. I'm raising the frame to 9'high today.Hope it helps!

Sounds like you're doing about what I am doing. Some varieties of tomatoes I'm growing seem much more resistant to it than others. The romas are the hardest hit and the rutgers are barely showing symptoms. I have tried to remove all foliage to at least 18" from soil level and remove daily any new leaves I find infected. There are no cankers yet on the stems, and that is a good sign. Fruit is ripening now and I am starting to harvest. I would like the indeterminate plants to keep cranking until well into fall and that's the only way I'm going to stay ahead of it. As said it is far less devastating than late blight, but will eventually make your plants succumb.

I planted some new stock in a different area than the garden, and it's an area not put to plough for at least forty years, and they're disease free so far.

You can keep it in check with a fungicide. If you prefer organic try Serenade. I'm having great luck with Daconil.

I grow my veggies organically, and though I am familiar with daconil and have used similar products in a g'house situation it's not an option on my food crops. Daconil is effective, but needs to be started before symptoms of the disease present themselves to be a really good option. Did you start it then? If you waited until the disease is present, and it's working, I'm glad to hear that because most sources say it doesn't work then. It would be nice to know there are people having success with that.

There is a truck farmer near us who appears to be loosing his whole crop to blight. I really feel for him.

calliope you are not the OP and it's up to them if they want to go or stay organic and yes I did start using it after symptoms appeared. You have to spray weekly until the season is done.

OMG........I am not a rabid organic gardener, nor am I trying to convert anyone to my style of gardening. I have a pesticide applicator's license and am obliged to use some in my business. Did you read far enough to see I said I was GLAD the daconil was working? The idea I was trying to put forth was that as a pesticide applicator I have been taught that applications of fungicide are recommended BEFORE onset of symptoms and most references state that for early blight, starting the treatments after the fact are rarely successful. Geesh.

Thank you all, I can't rotate crops much since it's only a yard garden, but next year will do what I can, even if it means removing dirt and replacing a lot of it. I'm making 6' "windowboxes" along my fence to hold plants for next year, and composting is coming to mind, too. I have Daconil but don't really understand how to apply it, the spray comes out all gluey drops and won't mist to cover the plant. I think it had helped, but still got the disease later. I do remove affected leaves 2-3x a day, but will use the idea of removing lower leaves in the first place so they don't get splashed with disease in the ground. Glad my huge plant only had 4-5 affected leaves that I removed, it has over a hundred tomatoes on it and I don't even know what kind of tomatoes they are so want to help them mature.

You're supposed to mix Daconil 1T per gallon of water in a pump sprayer. Not sure about a hose end sprayer but mixing 1-1 then doubling the application rate should work.

Continue spraying it every 7-10 days until the growing season is over.