I too would like to know more about the effects of this fungus on other plants. I noticed these cup shaped fungus this spring in the beds that I amended with horse manure last fall. I have already planted a good many perennials & they seem to be doing okay, but should I do something to rid my beds of these things or just let them go? And if they need to go, how do I get rid of them?

Thanks so much everyone....The one thing I forget to detail was that yes, I do have humidity issues, in the sense that I have to use a humidifyer everyday when the heat is on, especially if it gets warm in that room..I even use water fountains..Sort of like a tropical oasis. I always keep it the warmest room in house with high humidity..I forget the humidity one day, boy do the plants rebel!! The things is, even when I use the humidifyer 24 hours a day, I still have to keep up with the pests..I keep the room at 70 or more percent humidity level. The windows do muck up. But the bugs still come if I don't spray on a regular basis... Every plant seems to love this enviroment except my meyer lemones...They are so stubborn. The leaves drop no matter what I do..But I have not tried the colder enviroment yet.. Funny thing is, when I brought 2 of them dying to work, where the temps stay cool, the air dry, and lots of sun, they came back, but still had to keep up with mites. This would be the first time I try a radical move from warm humid conditions all winter, to much cooler conditions, maybe without a humidifier. I guess I am a little scared you could say.....I was hoping some one would say exactly what I had to do to make it work.If it is possible to keep healthy citrus all winter like this.. Therefore the question...Less light if cooler conditions? Not as cold as some suggest though, like a garage..My garage can be below zero and has no light at all. I mean no grow lights, are just south facing windows good enough? Do you think my trees will be ok if I grow all winter at much cooler conditions like the temps I mentioned above, and less light?....I know the pests will certainly be minimal...This is my goal...Less pests, a lower electric bill, less worry about humidity, less leaf drop, probably less new growth too, what the mite seems to hit every year, they don't eat any old growth... I remember last winter when that room accidently reached over 80 degrees because my niece raised the thermostat, all the lemon meyer trees lost their leaves within days, and a couple died..Anyone confused yet? Lol I will re-read these posts and see if anyone has hit it on the head about my dilema. Been weary lately...t tired to think..sorry By the way, no worries about piggy backing, it can be a fun ride.. Anytime rhizzo posts, it is great to see what she has to say..:-)....Everyone else included... I will be quite embarrssed if anyone here has already gave me the answer I needed..

Apologies for disagreeing, but the POTENTIAL for growth and health of plants in larger pots with plenty of room for roots to run is much greater than plants grown tight in smaller pots. IOW, No Plant 'Likes' to be Rootbound. If they did, Mother Nature would have programmed the root systems of her charges to grow in tight little cubes and cones directly under the stems. Since that NEVER occurs naturally, it's a good bet it's not a plant-propitious arrangement. The 'root bound myth' came into being by growers who were forced to choose between the lesser of two evils. If your soil doesn't support a soggy layer of water at the bottom of the pot (a perched water table), over-potting is impossible - you could grow a tiny but perfectly happy/healthy cutting in a 55 gallon drum filled with soil. If your soil is excessively water-retentive, you are literally forced to consider the size of the pot carefully, or suffer the consequences of over-potting - usually root rot or the cyclic death and regeneration of roots that occurs when the soil retains water excessively. We know with absolute certainty that tight roots limit the plant's vitality and growth potential, and this begins to occur at the approximate point in time where the soil/root mass can be lifted from the pot intact. This cannot be argued. You can walk up to any rootbound plant and, with a glance, assess how congested the roots are by looking at the decreasing internode length caused by root congestion and/or how the foliage is arranged on branches/stems/crowns. Even though smaller pots and root bound conditions are inherently limiting, we too often CHOOSE this limitation, because to us, the specter of root rot due to the combination of a poor soil and a larger pot is the more worrisome horn of THAT dilemma. Somehow, the idea that the lesser of two evils was conflated to mean a superlative arrangement. It's not. In fact, when we consider the comparative degrees good/ better/ best, it's well south of good. To avoid both horns of the dual perplexity, tight roots AND over-potting, simply make a soil that does not hold enough water to limit root function, regardless of pot size. Al

In my opinion, unless you know for a fact that an insect has damaged your plants, it's best to let nature be. Since you posted on the cactus/succulent forum, I assume that is what your plants are. If you are going to post any further questions here, it would help if you add your gardening zone with your "name" so people can answer in a more informed way. You can find your gardening zone by doing a search "USDA gardening zone" and entering your zip code.