I know the Carolinas are not good Andromeda so instead of relocating the plants make certain to mulch heavily and water more often and if that doesn't work then remove them in the fall to a shadier location. As for lace bugs if you are certain that's what they are then read the following: Tolerate lace bugs when possible. Natural enemies, such as lady beetles, green lacewings, and other predators help keep lace bugs in check. When natural enemies are present, lace bugs generally cause little damage to the plant. A high-pressure water spray from a garden hose is an option for managing lace bug nymphs on small plants. The water spray acts much like a heavy rain, knocking nymphs off the plant. Since nymphs can not fly back to the plant, they are less likely to survive. Direct the spray at the undersides of the leaves where most lace bugs are found. Insecticides can be effective in reducing numbers of lace bugs on plants. Use insecticides judiciously, as they kill natural enemies as well as lace bugs, and can make lace bug problems worse. Avoid spraying broad-spectrum insecticides (i.e., acephate, carbaryl, and chlorpyrifos) when possible to preserve natural enemies for good long-term management. When using insecticides, good coverage is critical. Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves where lace bugs are normally found. It is best to use the least toxic products first. Insecticidal soaps (e.g., Safer's), horticultural oils, and pyrethrins are insecticide products with relatively low toxicity, and are relatively safe for many beneficial insects including natural enemies. Other products to manage lace bugs are cyfluthrin, permethrin, carbaryl (e.g., Sevin), or acephate (e.g., Orthene). Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

Pieris japonica prefers at least partial shade. It will be stressed in full sun and will be more susceptible to a certain pest. I forget the name of the pest (learned this last March in Master Gardener class) ... but you don't want it on your pieris. I have a few - two growing in the dappled shade of tall deciduous oak trees (one is nearly 8') and a third, smaller, one on the north side of our house where it receives a few hours of morning sun, but full to dappled shade afterwards. All are full, healthy and very trouble-free, rewarding me with those lovely little flower clusters in early spring and asking little in return. They get a good mulch of shredded leaves in the fall, and a light feeding of fertilizer for acid-loving plants. The only pruning I do is to remove branches that are damaged or growing at an awkward angle ... occasionally one or two just to maintain a good, but still natural, shape. These plants like the same conditions as rhododendrons, azaleas, heaths and heathers. Good luck with your new pieris!

I also have the Pieris Mountain Fire -- Now thinking back I had to determine where and what exact micro climate , was going to make this fussy plant happy for lack of a better term. Anyway,I north facing partial shaded spot That's where the trouble began with a bit too much sun. The foliage gradually turned a yellowish green from a meduim green. It still gave me color in fall but there's something just not right. Growth became so slow and this last winter just made it look like it's bailing. Then I read about low iron can influence color. Wondering if this thing is suffering from low iron. Here's what I'm trying: I 've transplanted it close to a shadier place along the same fence but under a Spartan Juniper. I've found Plant Prod water soluable Chelated Iron at a local building store. I'm giving this a dose now and seeing if things green up. If they do there's a good chance all other values will improve Worth a try ... This is my prognosis

Acidifying your native soil with peat moss or bark is a waste of both your time and your money. You will never make your native soil noticeably more acidic long enough to please a shrub or tree without using significant quantities of chemicals such as sulphur and, for quick hit, sulphuric acid. Alkaline soil has remained alkaline despite hundreds and probably many thousands of years of rainfall (rain is acidic), nothing you do with a bit of peat is going to change that. If you add enough peat to keep the soil acid for a number of years, you will create a soil that compacts, remains either too dry or too wet, and eventually collapses. Peat is not suitable as a major component of a garden soil unless you are creating a bog garden. Plan on providing regular mulches of bark, ideally shredded or partially composted, or other composted material, every year or even every six months. This will create a constant supply of nutrients that would otherwise become unavailable to the plant in alkaline conditions. Bark, any species, has been recommended for all ericaceous plants both for improving soil structure and for innoculating beneficial fungi against the phytopthera that causes root rots, but don't consider it a cure-all for poor drainage. Bark is a good soil component for ericaceous plants in containers but plan to replace or refresh the soil every few years since all organic components of the soil will break down. Almost all container soils will be based on peat but you should of course select one intended for ericaceous plants since non-ericaceous potting soils have added limestone to make the pH near neutral.