I'm going to take an entirely different approach. And this is based on many years as both a professional design/landscape consultant and garden coach. Extensive perennial plantings are high maintenance. Not sure how large your assorted perennial beds are but maintaining 8 of them, 3 of which are very visible, is going to take a lot of time. Based on your screen name, I assume you work for a living? And no doubt, so does your spouse. Do you want to spend limited free time doing a lot of gardening or would you rather have more time to just enjoy your outdoor space? And if you are new to gardening, there is a high learning curve involved with an extensive, existing garden, I'd suggest that you slowly convert the perennial beds to lower maintenance plantings, focusing on small trees and shrubs. These will not be maintenance-free but will require less attention than a heavily herbaceous perennial bed. You can certainly keep whatever perennials you find very appealing, but include them as only a portion of the plant selection, not the focus. There is a horticultural rule of thumb - the larger and longer lived a plant, the less ongoing maintenance it will require......a sliding scale with annuals and perennials at the high end and shrubs and trees at the lower end. Also, the more evergreen, the less maintenance required (generally). You may want to hire someone to help with this. Garden coaching/consultation is a pretty active business segment in many parts of the country. They can help you both identify the plants you have, determine which might be appropriate to keep and help to select others to replace and offer lower maintenance and a longer season of interest. At a modest hourly rate, this may be an excellent investment. FWIW, most Master Gardener organizations do not provide for this type of onsite, individual/personal attention, at least under the auspices of the program. Their mission is community outreach via plant clinics, community gardens, answer lines, etc., not a one-on-one approach. Checking with your local program office or county extension should clarify.

JD what probably got you confused is that even a zone 5 tree rose still has to be overwintered in the garage. A zone 7 tree rose tends to get very sick even while overwintered in the garage, because it cannot tolerate being stuck in the garage for as long as our winters last (several months of winter) That's why wheeling tree roses in and out of the garage is very important as soon as you get a warm break out of the weather. On the other hand a zone 5 tree rose can withstand the dark garage a little longer than a zone 7 tree rose can. Again, don't get discouraged. The more you practice the better you'll get at it. Also don't blame yourself either about canker. One thing that people do not realize is that constant rains on one's tree rose, no matter how well you care for it will cause canker. There are certain things which can't be helped. We've been real, real unlucky weather-wise in Kansas City. So even if you keep pruning and keep the leaves clean, canker is inevitable if you keep getting non-stop rains. To me it's impossible to think that next year is gonna be as bad as this year was. It's GOT TO BE BETTER NEXT YEAR! that's what I keep telling myself, lol! JD, here is an image of a properly pruned tree rose. There is still one more essential diagram that I need to find, but can't for the life of me! So frustating! The fantastic diagram shows how to make the cuts along the branches of the tree rose. Maybe someone here knows where the original link is! I tried googling but to no avail. I can't find the diagram except for this, but it's a bit blurry and hard to see. The only thing wrong with the diagram is that you can't plant tree roses in the ground in our zone, JD. That's just a tree rose in a place like California, lol! It is crucial to have air-flow with tree roses or disease will set in. For organics growers, tree roses are the most difficult for us because the bud unions are constantly exposed to rains and freezing temperatures and both weaken the rose with this exposure. Also a tree rose requires constant shaping throughout the growing season. However, you have to be very careful to never ever prune when there is moisture. You can only prune when it's bone dry. That's what's so frustrating about our constant rains. It leaves very little dry time to do our pruning.

How about a little background? It sure doesn't look good. When was it planted? How did you plant it? What is the planting site like? Etc.

I agree with Jean, above. Inside the garage is your best bet, especially since it apparently hasn't gone into dormancy yet. Another option for overwintering plants in pots is to sink the pot into the ground for the winter and mulch well.