For a long time with my old TL (that's supposed to be so inferior to European-style FL), I get excellent results with all my laundry and stain removal by soaking in oxygen bleach (OxiClean). This required active participation: I would start the hot water flow into the machine, add the oxi, add detergent (enzyme-based Kirkland Free & Clear), switch to warm if required to be easier on fabrics (stayed with hot for whites). Then I'd let the clothes soak for at least 60 minutes, sometimes several hours or overnight. This soak eliminated most stains without pretreating. One important exception is oily/greasy stains. Oxi doesn't do well with those. Straight detergent on the stain, Shout Advanced, or citrus degreaser pretreatment is needed for oily stains. I learned about the soak technique from Cook's Illustrated when they did their test of stain removers. Any organic, plant-based color stain, I think of oxi soak to remove it. Over the years, though, my favorite white towels and tank tops harbor faint stain residues that accumulate till the items don't look good. Inspired by the book "Home Comforts" by Cheryl Mendelson, I soaked my beloved Champion tanks in Clorox, at the correct dilution, then hung them in the sun. They looked like new. Lesson learned: there is nothing like true bleach. A few days ago, I bought a FL and tried the "Sanitize" cycle on stained white towels and T-shirts, and after nearly 3 hours was highly disappointed that many stains remained. So I still think soaking in oxi is more effective than a long, hot wash cycle in FL. A long warm oxi soak is also gentler on the spandex fabric than either super-high temperature or chlorine bleach. So my overall strategy is to oxi soak every wash in warm/hot water, chlorine bleach soak occasionally as needed. My detergent contains no optical brighteners, but those certainly make a huge difference in making whites look white. I read where people talk about how they're not "really" white because it's just an "illusion." This is nonsense. The only thing that MATTERS is how the color LOOKS to your eye/brain perceptual system. Garments that have lots of optical brighteners look great. Old garments whose optical brighteners have deteriorated look lousy, no matter how clean they are. I can see the amount of optical brighteners using a UV light. So to the OP's problem, removing stains without pretreating, soaking in oxygen bleach is the best solution I know, but if the stain has an oily component, you must either pretreat with enzyme/surfactant or use a very strong detergent. If skin can't tolerate those cleaners, I can't see any way to have stain-free clothes, because I have tried tons of different things. I would therefore recommend diet/supplements to improve skin's barrier function. I have friends with reactive skin like this, that improved greatly with more protein and EFAs (fish oil) in their diets, plus B vitamins and chelated minerals. A formula of chelated magnesium, zinc, selenium, chronium, and vanadium, makes a HUGE difference in skin and nail health. I have seen it personally in many different people. And 3-5 grams of fish oil daily is a must for healthy skin.

if you could just give it 6 inches of no mowing ... for a month or two ... you could dig out the bulb and move it to a garden bed ... on such.. you need to let the plant restore energy.. before it goes dormant ... if you dig it now.. maybe you win.. maybe you dont ... but looking at that perfect green carpet .. i doubt you want to let it naturalize.. as flora suggests ... what surprises me.. with your perfect lawn .. is that it seems immune to excessive fert.. and presumably weed agents ... go figure.. tough little bugger ... if you want it moved... take a butcher knife ... cut a cross .. pull back the sod.. so you can dig out the bulb ... go place it in a garden bed ... and reset the sod ... and bobs your uncle ... ken

Nic's,,the 4" piece should come off easy enough. you may tear the paper on the backsplash, which is ok if it's not too deep into the drywall. I guess if you were on scene you could have asked them not to install it. I mean, what difference is it to them whether or not it goes on the wall? to say it would be more money not to have one, is ridiculous. it takes more time to cut one and finish the edges! but, whatever. as for the design, it's a herringbone. and those I've shown you come on 12" sheets so you don't have to do the actual design (which is very difficult) the first one is calacatta marble in a 1x2 herringbone (also comes in a 1x4, which I like better). You can find this all over,,,even Houzz carries it. If you want the marble, then stick w/the Calacatta not the Carrara. carrara is a blue/white and will clash w/your counters. calacatta has a warmer tone to the stone. the 2nd on is a tumbled travertine which you can get here: https://www.pebbletileshop.com/products/Cream-Herringbone-Stone-Mosaic-Tile.html#.WhX_BLaZNT4 this will give you an idea of what it looks like installed (you can turn it longways as well) If you search "herringbone mosaic tile" you should get lots of ideas and places to buy them. this one is from Lowes, allen and roth. you could buy one and bring it home to see how it looks this is the basketweave this would also work. crackle glass by Merola tile. Olean Glass mosaic. I think Home Depot carries thesenothing wrong w/doing a little color. pale green, blue or gray would also work well. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Merola-Tile-Chester-Sage-3-in-x-12-in-Ceramic-Wall-Tile-1-sq-ft-pack-WNU32CSG/300341310 these would also look nice,,,they have them in different shades https://www.mercurymosaics.com/shapes/field-subway-tile/

Here are 4 of the colors we have talked about in above comments..marscapone can give off the slightest tint of green...Dove Wing is a beautiful neutral white you can’t go wrong using it any space....Pale Oak is one of my favs it is still light but gives a soft warm glow..allows trim to contrast.