On the how it will look, the different sizes should be okay. Add an inch or two of framing between them if need be and it will look great. The Gaggenau design for the combi-steam and plain ovens is that the controls on the bottom of the combi-steam oven line up with the controls on the top of the single convection oven, and form a square. They'd look REALLY weird side by side, or even in different parts of the kitchen. I resented having six inches of trim on the combi, and tried every kind of design and gave up. I love the Gaggenau ovens, but they're like Apple computers--great but you have to do it their way. Sorry. Still excitable about it I guess... But with the Miele units, they won't look unbalanced next to each other. You might also consider putting them at different locations in the kitchen. People talk about wishing the steam oven was nearer their sinks, so you might want to put yours where it's only steps away, and then the convection oven nearer your baking things. Malhgold--Great picture!! Sigh. I love that arrangement. It's actually not that different from what my oven stack will look like, but mine won't be nearly so pretty...

To give you the basics... There are three general types of refrigerators: Standard-depth These are generally the least expensive They are around 36" total depth - including refrigerator box, doors, handles, and required air space behind them Widths will generally range from 30" to 36" Counter-depth These are a bit more expensive than standard depth but much less expensive than built-ins They're usually around 31" deep -- The refrigerator box is around 24" deep -- The doors and handles add another 7" or so to the total depth They don't usually need as much air clearance on the sides & back as standard-depth Built-ins These are usually the most expensive refrigerators - often by quite a bit, especially if it's fully integrated They're usually 25" to 27" deep For standard-depth and counter-depth, the refrigerator doors and handles must extend out past the surrounding walls, cabinets, counters, other appliances, etc. This is so the doors can be opened fully for full access to the interior as well as the ability to easily remove drawers and shelves for cleaning. In situations like yours, we usually recommend a 6" to 12" pullout utility or pantry cabinet b/w the wall and the refrigerator (the width depends on how deep the wall is - the shallower it is, the narrower the pullout needs to be). But, I assume you have to work with what you have. Height may be an issue for you as many refrigerators are now around 70" tall with the requirement for extra space above for air clearance. Unfortunately, it appears the alcove for the refrigerator was not well designed so, as someone else pointed out, you may have to remove or modify that cabinet above the alcove. However, that cabinet appears to be a standard 12" deep cabinet and those are pretty useless over refrigerators, so you won't really lose much storage space. One note, based on the what I see of that wall, if you want a more common size refrigerator (36"), you will probably have to: Put the hinge on the least functional side (so the door opens away from the Kitchen and landing space) -or- Get a very deep refrigerator so it opens into the DR doorway -or- Get a narrow refrigerator so you have room for 6" to 9" of filler b/w the wall and refrigerator How wide is the doorway? You might look into widening the DR doorway so the wall in the Kitchen is no deeper than 24" or so - then you could get any refrigerator around 36" wide and not have to worry about not being able to open the door If you go with a smaller refrigerator - including smaller capacity - you may be able to find one that fits. Is there a place for a 2nd refrigerator elsewhere (e.g., basement)?

Any door that opens to the right will hit the side wall, which includes French door and SxS units. That may cause some obstruction on fully opening crisper or meat/deli drawers, depending on the design of individual models. It probably will prevent removal of the drawers (for cleaning or service) since the door(s) typically must be open to nearly 180° to facilitate removal for the drawer(s) to clear the edge of the door and/or protruding door shelves ... unless the refrigerator is pulled forward when needed so the right-side door can swing into the dining room doorway. My SxS is next to a pantry door that is set at an angle. The left-side freezer door hits the pantry door knob. The freezer baskets are just barely obstructed from pulling fully out, they run into the freezer door gasket, although it's not enough to impair functionality and the clearance is such that I can slightly pull the baskets to the right to clear the gasket if necessary. Opening the pantry door allows the freezer door to swing open enough to fully clear the gasket. Pics below. You will have more obstruction for the door swing on the right since your wall is at a 90° angle. My sister ran into the same situation at the existing house they recently bought. A Kenmore (Samsung- or LG-sourced) French door refrigerator came with the house and has a full-width crisper drawer and separate deli/meat drawer. The unit has to be pulled forward from normal position for the left-side door to open enough to remove the drawers for cleaning or service.

Allison, looks like it needs some water. What kind of soil is it in? Did you mix some perlite in your soil? Is the mix hard?