"Scott's does not have the label for your grass seed online (404 error), so it's hard to know what you might have." I got a copy of the label and this is what was in the mix that I used: 9.76% Wendy Jean Creeping Red Fescue 9.75% Shademaster III Creeping Red Fescue 8.77% Citation Fore Perennial Ryegrass 8.28% Silver Dollar Perennial Ryegrass 6.34% Gaelic Kentucky Bluegrass 2.92% Abbey Kentucky Bluegrass 2.92% Right Kentucky Bluegrass 50.00% Water Smart Plus Fertilizer Coating 1.00% Inert From Seed .25% Other Crop Seed .01% Weed Seed ------------------------- "1. Why do I have such an ugly color lawn? Is it the seed I used? Could be but it's more likely the fertilizer you forgot to use. You didn't mention that you used any so I'm making an assumption. If you did fertilize, what did you use and when?" You are correct, I did not use any. I listened to the guy at Home Depot (maybe a mistake?) that told me I should not fertilize a new lawn, it could kill the grass coming in. ----------------------- "2. What is the grass that almost feels and looks like hay? Need the label off the Scott's bag to know the Guaranteed Analysis of the seed. That is not completely likely to help because what you probably have is a weed that's giving you that effect. Does that grass ever go to seed? If so, can you let it go to seed and take a picture. Grass is much easier to ID if there's a seed head or flower." I’m not sure to be honest. When I pull a piece out, it comes from the same stem that has 3 or 4 other grass-like blades (that are still green). ----------------------- "3. What, if anything can I do to fix this and make it a nice, green lawn (other than starting over which is last resort)? Fertilize if you have not already done so. This time of year you should not use chemical fertilizers, but you may use all the organic fertilizer your budget allows. Rather than using commercially bagged organic fertilizer, I prefer to use the ingredients of those same fertilizers. You can buy them at any feed store under the name of alfalfa, corn, wheat, soybean meal, etc. It's a little secret that organic fertilizer is made from animal feed. The application rate for any of them is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Again, you can use it any day of the year, or every day of the year, with no fear of hurting the grass. It takes 3 full weeks before you see results with these grain type fertilizers." I can definitely try that. With that, I’m sure I wouldn’t have to worry about my puppy ingesting any of it. If you have been fertilizing, then there is likely a problem with your soil. Send a sample to Logan Labs in Ohio for testing. You are undoubtedly strongly inclined to send your sample to Penn State, but you'll get a lot more test for the money at Logan Labs. To be honest, I wouldn’t have any idea where to send it, but now I have an idea. ----------------------- "*Note - I have small mounds, maybe golfball size that appear and when I knock them over, there are holes about the diameter of a pen or sharpie. I have no idea what is creating these. There are no holes protruding from the "ball" except the one that enters down into the soil. These are likely earth worm mounds. Sometimes they indicate that you have a hard layer of soil under the softer layer of soil. This can happen when you rototill. A much better way to soften your soil is to use any clear shampoo, like baby shampoo, to increase water penetration and soften the soil deeper down." I tilled last year because the yard was probably 4-6 inches too high. When It would rain, the patio would end up under water. I took out about that much dirt, and loosened up the soil even under that, then added topsoil. Baby shampoo wont kill the grass? How would I apply it? How have you been watering (when you water)? How often and how long when you do water? Here is probably my first issue. I planted the grass last October, threw the hay down, then 3 days later got married and went on a honeymoon, so… for the first 2 weeks, it never got watered, then the weather took a down turn and I was only able to start “caring” for it this spring. ----------------------- "How high/low are you mowing the grass?" If asking in inches, I’m not sure, I have not measured, but I have the mower set on the next to last highest setting (almost cutting it as high as possible).

+2 I agree. For most chilis, if I want truly ripe peppers, I wouldn't pick them until they are ripe on the plant or at least, starting to turn ripe. For instance, a Hot hungarian wax pepper will be a yellowish green color while growing. But once it starts to ripen, it will turn a shade of orange and shortly after will go to a nice bright red color. If you want "ripe" ones, pick them when red or at least orange going on red. That being said, many peppers are normally picked and eaten when still green such as a Jalapeno which will eventually turn red. There is a bit of taste and heat difference between them and it is a matter of personal preference. I generally pick and process most of my Hot Hungarian wax when they are still yellowish green. I do this for a few reasons. 1. The flavor and heat suits me fine at that stage. 2. I usually don't want to wait too long. Any time after they reach mature size, I will pick them. 3. It allows the plant to get busy and put it's energy into producing additional pods. Bruce

Miele 4225 Classic is an excellent basic dishwasher; got mine for $899. Craftsmanship superb, wash quality superb, customer service superb (at least for me), great capacity for thin plate dish ware (Corelle). But...could have local code install issues as most countertop siphon breaks have a 5/8 inlet and 7/8 outlet; Miele dishwasher drain line is 7/8 outlet so I use the "high loop" method to prevent back flow and bypass the countertop siphon break. Also, it is not hard-wired, requires a plug outlet, ideally on its own circuit. I installed my own, except hiring in an electrician for 30 minutes to help wire in the extra outlet. It is easily the best kitchen appliance I own. As for parts availability, I could not get my GE dishwasher pump housing or shaft seal after 14 years. I wouldn't count on any service parts after 10-12 years from any manufacturers; they must figure most folks toss units rather than fix after 10 years. The days of parts for 15 to 20 years is over. Majors are now like TVs, VCRs, DVDs, microwaves, and home electronics, toss when they break because repairs are cost prohibitive if not a DIY job.

Augie What size and efficiency systems both up and down do you have now-cooling and heating? Any specific issues with existing systems? I will assume you have conventional furnaces now. If you replace only outside condenser and inside evap coil and pair with existing furnace, you are just as well off staying with basic 13 SEER condensers. If you want higher SEER 15+, you must go with either two stage var speed furnace or at very least a single stage furnace model with high eff x-13 blower. I also question the sizing of the furnaces you were quoted. I will give a pass to the dealers on furnace models because these Trane furnaces whether down flow or upflow are adaptable to horizontal application which I suspect is what you have now. In other words, not a big deal. I do take exception to Mike's statement above about a two stage furnace running on low stage 90% of the time. Not true unless you have a true two stage thermostat. In fact if you use the timer on the furnace, you would be running probably 90% of time in high stage. A pet peeve of mine what dealers do to homeowners in this area. And yes a two stage stat costs more but will easily pay for itself. At this moment AHRI site is down. I will look up a system using both two stage furnace XV80 and single stage high eff blower XT80 for upstairs. I also recommend a pleated filter media cabinet that Mike suggested. IMO This post was edited by tigerdunes on Tue, Apr 30, 13 at 7:32