Hi Though i grow PL in pots none are on the house They are located in dappled light fern bed or in the shadehouse .I use two methods one enriched soil second in sand in standing water in a shady marsh garden, They invaribly flower in spring though have noted that a temp drop will often spur flowers. Don't know if that would help you or not ?? Since I use them as garden plants they experience down to frost over the year . Seems to me they flower more heavily from this, short of a hard freeze. that is fatal. lol gary

Not sure what area of ME you're in, so don't know your zone, which would affect your list of possibilities. Red oak is hardy to zone 3, and pin oak is good to 4, both have an average growth rate of close to 2'/yr once established in good conditions, and both have the benefit of beautiful fall colours. We purchased a few young pin oaks this spring, and I am really liking their form and colour, more so than the red oak. Blackgum (Nyssa sylvatica) is quite tolerant of soil conditions, with beautiful fall colours as well, and some cultivars are faster growing than others. If you wish to look outside the box, bald cypress (taxodium distichum) may work if you are in zone 5, likes moist to wet soils, is very fast growing, and has beautiful, soft, ferny foliage. I don't expect their are many bald cypress in ME! Katsura (cercidiphyllum japonicum) is hardy to zone 4, adaptable, and relatively fast growing though may take some time to become established. It also colours beautifully in fall, though its heart shaped blue green leaves are pretty enough throughout the year, and has an added bonus that when the leaves colour in fall and are warmed a little by the sun, they emit a wonderfully sweet fragrance that has been likened to caramelized brown sugar or cotton candy. Even my young seedling has done this. Have fun in your search, and don't be afraid to get creative!

"Moon flower" is a pretty broad umbrella term. If you could. My knowledge is in the genus Datura, so I'll try to help you out. It would be ideal to identify this plant before we go any further. Here is a picture of one of my Datura wrightii with an opening bloom and a couple of developing buds: http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g79/Tall_Mike_Bismuth/Daturaopening.jpg And an overhead shot from a few days later: http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g79/Tall_Mike_Bismuth/wrightii-2.jpg If that looks anything like what you have, then I can help you out. First, transplanting any Datura is a bad idea, especially when the cold is beginning to set in. Datura flowers when its root system is well established, and the plant is mature. If it has a bud on it, leave the plant alone. The flower will eventually open, and a seed pod will appear a couple of weeks after. All Datura are self-pollinating. The flower itself only lasts for a night or two. Developing flowers and fruit frequently drop off when the plant is transplanted. Let's move on. Depending on which species of Datura you have, you're going to want to adjust your conditions. First, look at the stems. Do they appear furry, or smooth? If smooth, it's either Datura ceratocaula or Datura metel. Both love the heat. If the stems and/or leaves have hairs on them, then we have a few choices. The most commonly cultivated Daturas are selected for their massive flowers (as seen in my photographs), so that may help in narrowing down our identification to a few species. Datura wrightii and Datura inoxia look about the same, and both develop thick roots to withstand the winter. Datura discolor has similar appearance, but is distinguished by a coloured ring (usually a shade of violet or red) on the interior of the flower's corolla. Datura love heat, regardless of their species. Of course, I am assuming that your plant is a Datura. One way to tell off the bat is to run a couple of fingers along the underside of a leaf and smell those fingers. Datura exudes a distinctive odor when disturbed. Make sure to wash your hands after doing that, though, as Datura is an extremely toxic plant. If you can produce a photograph, I can try to pinpoint your plant's exact ID. What you should try doing is bringing the plant in the house, or some place warm (above freezing, or better yet, above 50) to extend its growing period. Put it in front of a window, glass door, or anywhere where it will receive sun. It helps to know what your plant's water requirements are right here. Most plants like water, but too much watering provides ample conditions for fungi and root rot. Datura, in particular, is a plant that doesn't need a lot of water. If we decide that your plant is a member of this genus, I would suggest giving it water every three to four days, or whenever the soil is dry again, adjusting waterings as per the plant's response.

pepperonihead, I am waiting for a response by someone to your question. I also have a plant that the blooms are not opening. It is a Vera Cruz Rose that had 9 large bloom heads that were beautiful. A little wind blew it over, but did not break any branches. It was probably on the ground several hours before I found it. Ever since that happened, the flower looks more like a shell than they do a flower. I wondered if it went into shock and is just not going to open. Look forward to some expert comments.