letting a lawn go partially wild
dav8
14 years ago
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bill_ri_z6b
14 years agohunt4carl
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Is it possible to have a luscious lawn with partial sunlight?
Comments (20)citress I tend to agree with your hubby on aeration. billl and I agree on just about everything but apparently not on compaction. You did not mention compaction but only asked if aeration might help. My personal opinion is that aeration is a waste of time. I can understand how people make it work, but I think there is a better way (faster, cheaper, easier) to get the same result. First it would help to understand why you thought to aerate. Is your soil hard even when wet? Does water runoff before soaking in? Has it been used for sports like baseball, football, tennis or soccer? Compaction is a special case of soil damage. Before you can compact the soil, it has to be somewhat mobile when pushed on. That requires moisture. The more moisture the easier it is to compact. Once the soil is pretty moist, then you have to have repeated mechanical impact on the soil. That could be caused by livestock (even dogs) or by a sports activity. For example the soil to the left of home plate will become compacted if baseball is played when the soil is moist. If the soil is never moist, then the firmness will prevent the soil from moving on itself resulting in no compaction. The act of compacting the soil is to push the soil particles together and force out all the air. When that soil dries it is as hard as an unfired brick. Adobe brick is made by driving the air out of mud and compacting it into brick shapes. To distinguish compacted soil from hard soil, I believe this is what happens. Soil is made soft by the organic matter in the soil. Organic matter consists of dead organic matter (old roots, etc.) and living organic matter (bacteria and fungi along with protozoa, microarthropods, and worms). When organic matter gets moist, it swells up and pushes everything around it away. When it dries out again, everything hardens up. Picture a sponge which is soft when wet and hard when dry. When the organic matter is moist you can step on it and it will give a little. That is exactly what soft soil feels like. When it dries out again, it will be very hard and will not pass the screwdriver test that billl described. So I'm saying you could have hard soil that is compacted or hard soil that is not compacted. But I'm also suggesting that most home owners do not have truly compacted soil. Well that was probably more reading than anyone had planned to do. Hope some of you are still with us, because I'm just getting to the practical part of this. Several years ago I came up with a way to soften your soil using soaker hoses. It took weeks to do a small area and you had to buy lots of hose. Then about 2 years ago, one of the moderators on another forum tried using the soil softening products found in nurseries. Those are expensive by the gallon, but they worked. Frankly I'm not sure even he thought they would work but they did. Then he set about duplicating the formula for the products. One of the products is basically yucca juice. The other one is basically liquid soap. He combined the two recipes and published his recipe on another forum. With his recipe you can buy the products on eBay and make a lifetime supply for about $20. My approach was to simplify everything and try using just baby shampoo. I was not surprised to find it worked. The way you use it is to apply twice when irrigating with one watering in between the two apps. The app rate is 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet of area. If your lawn is 3,000 square feet, you put 9 ounces into a hose end sprayer and try to spray it evenly over the entire area. When the soap is gone from the sprayer, you're finished. Spray the soap, irrigate about an inch, and repeat in a couple weeks. That's all for the season. Back to the OP, I don't think it will help to core aerate. I think it might help to spray soap if your soil is hard even when moist. Spraying soap is easy and inexpensive. You might try it to see what happens. I would suggest only baby shampoo. I use the generic brand from Wal-Mart. Lagniappe: Using soap on the lawn was first made popular by "America's Master Gardener, Jerry Baker." And he was laughed at in all the forums for his potions to cure this, that, and the other thing. Well, here we are spraying soap on the lawn....See Morelawn mower rpm's going up and down
Comments (9)3.75 Briggs carb rebuild This is an easy DIY job to replace the diaphragm of the carburetor. A damaged diaphragm will cause engine surging, hard starting, and erratic high speed operation. You may also notice that the primer bulb isnt working properly. This is an overview of the carburetor and these types of carb-over-tank are typical of small Briggs engines. Note the two governor springs. The carb/tank assembly is held in place by a ½" bolt to the left of the carb and a 3/8" bolt on the engine head to the right. Remove both bolts and pull the tank straight out with a rocking motion. If possible, the carb/tank assembly should be blown off with compressed air and all loose dirt removed. Use the proper safety equipment, especially safety glasses, before using any compressed air in any of the steps below. In the highlighted area you will see the governor linkage still in the throttle plate of the carburetor. You will have to gently separate the carb/tank assembly from the linkage. It is a Z type linkage. It is not necessary to remove the springs or the other end of the linkage, from the governor. Note that on the rear of the carburetor is found a white plastic ring and O ring. Sometimes these remain on the tube of the engine housing. If so, place them back into the carburetor body, as shown, before reinstalling the carb/tank to the engine. Note the raised area of the diaphragm. This is caused by age, but more often, by ethanol fuels, which damage the diaphragms. A damaged diaphragm will cause engine surging, hard starting, and erratic high speed operation. You may also notice that the primer bulb isnÂt working properly. Shown here are the dip tube, which brings up gas from the tank, in the bottom left corner. Just behind that and partially obscured, is the orifice that compressed air can be used to clear the dip tube of debris. It also leads to the primer bulb, so any air must be low pressure and the primer bulb must be held in the depressed position to prevent it from blowing out. In the center top, youÂll notice the jet, surrounded by a wire mesh filter. In the bottom right is a spring. Be careful to not lose the spring or forget to install it during reassembly. Remove the old gasket and diaphragm combo from the carb body. Install a new gasket/diaphragm on the smooth surface of the tank. I always blow out the tank with compressed air to remove dirt and any water. Be aware that there may also be old gas in the tank. I always empty the tank and let it sit in the sun until all the gasoline evaporates before applying compressed air. Align the carb and lower it down on top of the gasket, trying to keep the five screw holes in the gaskets aligned. Insert the screws and partially tighten them and install all five screws. Tighten each screw until it gently bottoms out. Then turn each screw another quarter turn. It is not necessary to use more than a few inch pounds of torque on these screws. Reinstall in reverse order. When installing, be sure to engage the breather tube with the rubber piece on the carburetor....See MoreMouse ear/Wild strawberries in lawn?
Comments (13)Do you know if you have the common chickweed or the mouse ear chickweed? The common chickweed is considered a winter annual and the mouse ear(Very hairy leaves) is considered a perennial, but I have heard it can act as a winter annual in Oklahoma sometimes. But, being a perennial may explain why it still came up even though you put a pre emergent down. It may have stopped more seeds from germinating though. It seems like I have seen the weed germinate in early spring, die out in the summer, and then germinate again in the fall and then be winter killed or stay green through the winter. About the time you were re-seeding should have been the time to be putting down the Barricade, but we know you cannot do that and re-seed at the same time. Oct-Nov is about the time chickweed germinates. I would try a test patch as philes and morph mention above and you could put down some more Barricade as long as your TTTF is established. If there are any more seeds, it will keep them from germinating. It may also keep crabgrass from germinating early next spring....See MoreLawn rebuilding, but not the normal lawn, and a newbie help?
Comments (2)I don't mean to burst your bubble of enthusiasm, but you do realize that "3 large dogs" are going to severely limit your growing successes? How big of a yard do you have? Is the dog area fenced off? Are they all female (burn spots)? The combination of shade and dogs can be lethal for any sort of ground cover. I second the recommendation to check out the composting forum - IIRC, fresh wood chips can quickly throw a piles "balance" out of wack (something about it being a carbon or nitrogen hog, or turning it anaerobic, or c. none of the above) For the raised bed, search on "lasagna" beds in the gardenweb forums - haven't done it myself, but it sounds like people have good success just throwing cardboard and newspapers and leaf mulch / compost down and then adding plants. In the end, you may want to just focus on creating several "lawn zones" - maybe the front for a more manicured area, a more "natural" buffer zone, and then a mulched area (wood mulch, not leaf mulch) for the dogs to run and do their business. Posting a picture may also give us an idea of what kind of shade you'll be dealing with and the size of the yard....See Moreprairiemoon2 z6b MA
14 years agocarol6ma_7ari
14 years agoclaireplymouth z6b coastal MA
14 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
14 years agoterrene
14 years agodefrost49
14 years ago
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mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)