This forum used to have some real experts in KBG varieties, but they have moved on. One thing you should know about seed is you get what you pay for. All the seed you see at the box stores has a component of weed and other crop in it. The percentage you see listed in the guaranteed analysis is by weight. The really bad news is good seed is heavy and weed seed is light. In fact the worst weeds, common bermuda and bentgrass, have seeds the size of dust. Those seeds weigh one eight-millionth of a pound - meaning a pound has 8 million seeds in it. In a 10-pound bag of good KBG you could have 0.10% weed and get a full lawn of weeds. More expensive seed will have 0.00% weed and other crop listed on the label. Most weeds can be gotten rid of but bermuda and bentgrass are toughies. I'd spend the money for better seed. It is usually sold online only. Another thing you should be aware of is that spring is a bad time of year to be seeding a lawn. Why? Because the crabgrass seed is sitting there waiting to get enough water to sprout. If you are watering enough for grass seed, that is more than enough for crabgrass seed. That is why fall is the recommended time of year to seed new grass. Crabgrass dies in the fall so you have all fall and winter to establish your turf before the crabgrass tries to return. Spring is also a poor time because the new grass roots don't have time to become established and able to resist the summer heat. You may dodge that bullet with your location. With those thoughts in mind, go ahead and seed now and hope for the best. Anything that happens can be corrected in the fall. Please don't till your soil before seeding. No matter what your soil is like, the best thing to do for it is to get grass growing. Clear off the current vegetation with a verticutter (power rake, slit seeder, or other similar tool). Blow or rake off the litter, scatter the seeds, roll them down, and water daily, 3x per day (10 minutes only), for 3 weeks. If you really want to improve the soil, look at the organic forum. If you don't care about that, then just be careful about using exactly the recommended amount of fertilizer on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Going too heavy with chemicals is much worse than going too light. With organics it is looking like the reverse of that advice.

True, maybe not broadleaf. I jumped the gun, assuming the photo showed a plant larger than grass that had leaves ready to open. There's no scale to the image, like a quarter. A photo of the lawn might answer the question. It's hard to say what to do about it without seeing anything. If there are individual shoots here and there I'd leave them be and let the KBG grow undisturbed. If it is a carpet of weeds that might require some action. What state are you in? I assume it is northern since you seeded KBG. In most areas of the country this is the wrong time to seed a lawn. Unless you are in Canada or PNW it is likely that the new lawn will die out in July. If that happens then you will have an opportunity to prep the soil properly before reseeding. Is it a large area?

As long as the fertilizer doesn't contain a pre-emergent weed killer, you can put it down any time. I think in Nova Scotia this would be a good time to put down seed. Ideally you want day temps in the 60s and 70s.

The best thing I can say about tall fescue in Dallas is that it will germinate this time of year. Here are the problems with that. Dallas gets about 15 degrees too hot in the summer for fescue to survive. You could make it survive with excessive watering every afternoon simply to keep it cool. Seed planted now will also bring up crabgrass seed. Crabgrass is a summer annual plant which is ideally suited to brutal heat. Seeds germinate in about 3 days which make you think you're a genius for your excellent seed germination skills. By the time the fescue seeds germinate in 14 days, you'll already have an excellent stand of crabgrass. The fragile roots of the new fescue will not make it through summer. This is slightly different from the first con above. That one is about excessive watering. The fescue will likely die off fully by mid July leaving you with an excellent crabgrass lawn. Still, crabgrass will keep the mud out of the house. It forms a very dense turf. If you really want to have a Pennington Smart Seed lawn, please wait until about late September to drop the seed. At that time of year the seed has plenty of time to get established with roots before next summer's heat hits. Also any crabgrass seed should not be an issue at that time of year. Fescue in Dallas will still need more water than any other type of grass. What should you do in the mean time? Anything you want. Just water and something will fill in. You would be killing it all in September prior to seeding, so just let weeds grow. Getting roots in the ground is important. Or, you could simply mulch it about 3 inches deep and let the mulch work its magic. In other news, seed does not need fertilizer for about a month. The seed itself contains enough nutrients to germinate the seed and establish the root in the ground. It could be that Pennington has a slow melting fertilizer in the bag. I don't know. But in my opinion they are selling something that is 'too good to be true' just like the weed-n-feed products. Okay now I'm going to try to sell you on a warm season turf like hybrid buffalo, hybrid bermuda, or St Augustine. There are two kinds of buffalo grass - hybrid and wild. The wild buffalo grass (which comes in bags of seed) forms a straggly, thin turf which easily accepts weeds. It shoots up seed heads and flowers faster than the grass itself grows which makes it look unkempt quickly. The hybrid buffalo varieties grow much more densely and with no seed heads. The hybrid buffalo comes as plugs placed at certain intervals. Then as the plugs take hold they spread to form a sod. The wild seeded buffalos do not spread like the hybrids do. The dense hybrid sod helps to keep weeds out. Buffalo grass will go dormant and turn brown at the first freeze. The best feature of buffalo grass is low water usage and low fertilizer requirement. It can go temporarily dormant in the summer, but it recovers when it rains again. Buffalo can usually be mowed high or low and remain dense. It requires at least 7 hours of unfiltered sun in the summer. Similarly there are two kinds of bermuda. The wild kind is called common bermuda and can be purchased as bags of seed. Most everyone considers common bermuda to be a weed, but there are some improved varieties of seeded bermuda which may last longer into the fall before turning brown. When bermuda seed is scattered on hot soil in the summer, it can germinate in 3 days and give you a pretty good lawn in a month. The hybrid varieties abound nowadays. One variety called TIF 419 was a miracle turf in the 50s when it was introduced in bulk. So many sod farms grow it still to this day that it is one of the cheapest sods you can get. It comes in rolls which are laid out on the ground. One con for bermuda is that if you want it to look good all season you'll have to fertilize every month. It can take as much fertilizer as you can give it. It also needs to be mowed relatively low compared to other grasses. Bermuda needs at least 5 hours of unfiltered sunlight per day. St Augustine comes only as a sod. It does occasionally get seed heads, but the seeds are not viable. It comes in pieces about 18 inches by 24 inches. The pieces are usually set on the ground and butted together to completely cover the area you want. What I have had success with is setting the pieces several feet apart and letting the grass spread and create the dense sod that St Aug is known for. This saves a lot of money for those on a budget and with some extra patience. When temps are in the 70s, St Aug will send runners across the ground at a rate of about 15 feet per year. Here's a picture. You can see the runners going in all directions. After two seasons, all those runners knit together forming a very dense turf as seen in the rest of the picture. The tufts are the original sod pieces with everything in between being the result of runners. When you use St Aug like this, it becomes fairly economical to install. There's more to all of these alternatives. I'll let you chew on it a little and ask more questions. Bermuda and St Augustine are by far the dominant turf types in use in the South. There's a reason for that.