serenae - I used clear plastic cups, and cut drainage slits in the cups. Then I take a ziplock baggie and cut slits in the bottom and top of that for drainage and ventilation. Some rain water as well as melted snow gets inside, but by this time of year it still needs occasional watering. I wouldn't be able to just, spray at the baggies, to get enough water in lol*, so I open all the baggies and spray a little water in that way, then close back up. It isn't really THAT big of a hassle, to me at least, because they are all on my front stoop and I only water maybe once a week at best. Because of that baggies covering the cups a lot of moisture is retained in those containers and until the weather is really warm it doesn't evaporate that quickly. Once the weather is warm enough that it DOES start to dry out quicker, it's also usually warm enough to just open up the baggies altogether. I have also used the gallon sized baggies with containers that I got from plants bought at the garden center, milk jug bottoms and pop bottle bottoms. Here is a pic of a couple from 2009: Here are a few pictures from this year:

Once again, a trip to a good local nursery should provide you with many choices, specially at this time of year when many of these places feature fall planting sales. You could consider a collection of dwarf conifers, which offer a wide array of shapes, sizes and foliage color. Broadleaf evergreens I particularly value for extremely low maintenance and all around good looks are Viburnum tinus 'Spring Bouquet', 'Newport Dwarf' escallonia, various nandinas, Cotoneaster glaucophylla, Euonymus japonicus var. microphylla (boxleaf euonymus - assorted variegated forms to chose from) and hebes, but there are scores of others. And there are many deciduous shrubs that offer stunning fall color or late season blooms. Most of these will not offer too much interest during winter but twig dogwoods are standouts and oakleaf hydrangeas generally hold their richly colored fall foliage well into winter.

I couldn't fit everything in here so click the link below and let us know what survives the hot fence PLANTS SENSITIVE TO BLACK WALNUT TOXICITY Annuals and vegetables: asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, flowering tobacco, pepper, petunia, potato, tomato Herbaceous perennials: autumn crocus, baptisia, columbine, lily (Asian hybrids), peony, rhubarb Shrubs: blueberry, red chokeberry, cotoneaster, Amur honeysuckle, hydrangea, lilac, privet, potentilla, rhododendron, yew, and some viburnum shrub species Trees: European alder, white birch, crabapple species, hackberry, larch, linden, saucer magnolia, mugo pine, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, silver maple, and some viburnum tree species CONTROL Juglone-sensitive landscape plants should be located away from black walnut trees to avoid damage. Raised beds near trees will help minimize toxicity, but care should be taken to keep leaves, twigs, branches, and nuts out of the bed. Black walnut leaves, bark, and wood chips should not be used as landscape mulch or composted on garden plants. The best alternative is to choose plants from the list below.

Even small shrubs tend to be 3-4' wide and/or tall. Remember, though, that all plants will be small when you first buy them. Pay attention to the expected mature height/width, and avoid planting them too close to a wall, fence or pathway. For instance, if a plant is expected to eventually be 4' wide don't plant it closer than 2' to a pathway to avoid tripping someone. It's better to fill in with annuals and perennials until the shrubs grow some. I looked up the climate for Reno, and see that your summers are dry. Any new plants will need to be watered the first year, and require supplemental irrigation thereafter as your annual rainfall is 2.35". Because of your climate I think it best for you to visit local nurseries where the people know what will work. Consider shrubs native to your area.