I am just wondering if it is time to say good-bye to this old tree before it comes crashing down on my deck/house, or perhaps this is normal for an old red maple. ==>>> if you are wondering.. and carp is already falling out of it.. threatening you and your property... i will yell ... WHAT IS THERE TO WONDER ABOUT????? .. lol ... get rid of it ... and there is nothing a certified tree guy can tell you ... dont waste that money .. unless he will apply the cost to removal ... [of course.. w/o a pic.. both rhiz and i are guessing ... presuming the worst ... so it is up to you.. whether an opinion would be of value .. knowledge is power.. as they say] and yes.. all trees get to this point ... but in the forest.. no one ever hears them crashing thru the deck of the house.. and crushing you in your sleep ... get rid of it.. and plant an oak ... they last longer than maples.. but it wont matter in your lifetime.. as you wont see anything mature to its decline.. like this one ... get two or three estimates ... hire a guy with insurance.. and ask to see the ins certificate.. and call the ins company to find out if its still valid ... this is important.. as they will be working above your house.. not in some field ... and if you garden .. dont let them drive away with the woodchips.. have it done.. after leaf fall ... and your chips will all be wood .. but on the other hand.. you will have to clean up leaves one more time ... and if you have a fireplace.. have them leave the GOOD WOOD ... cut to 16 inches ... they can have all the crotches that wont split ... and if the trunk is stable .. it can be carved into a design.. unless it is also rotting down below ... ken

Your tree should have it's main late rial root just below the ground surface. It should not be mounded up as they have done. Only a couple inches of mulch is needed. Your soil should not be amended. As the roots grow out they will do best conforming to you natural soil providing it is not all clay. Fertilize only lightly in the spring. You might use a little "Superthirve" to reduce any shock. Trim out your top branches but leave the lower for now. This will allow the upper and inside bare spots to get more sun and fill in over time. May not look the best for a little while but your best plan of action. If you decide to remove any lower branches, any major trimming should be done when the tree is dormant, early spring or fall. Do not trim in the heat of the summer! There is still time to form your tree. Just look at it as a big Bonsai and look long, hard and from all directions about what branches you wish to remove before cutting. Seal all cuts over 1/2 inch to reduce bleeding and protect from disease. Good luck, Grancru

Just one thing you might want to consider with the good advice you've already gotten is whether melting salts get into your sugar maples root zone. You mention your front yard - if it is near the street it could be getting an accumulation of road salts from your Ohio winters. In my own area (upstate NY) sugar maples typically grow very well away from roads - but the closer they get to a street or sidewalk where salts may be used, the greater the branch dieback and outright mortality. This has become very apparent over the years. If you do lose the tree and want to plant another maple - try the red maple (or soft maple). These hold up better to salt damage and street or near street use - and also typically have excellent fall color. The spring flowers are kind of nice too. Of course the final mature form wont be quite as impressive as the sugar maple, should you be so fortunate as to witness it. That's one of the things I resent most about mortality, there are so many things to witness and learn about trees but our longevity is inadequate for it.

Post some photos of the trees. Be sure to include a closeup of where the tree trunk meets the ground and and holes in the trunk that you may find. Age of the trees and your location would be helpful to know too.