Towards the base of any given shoot the buds come out later also. I often graft taking a piece from one tree straight to another after growth starts but I don't want to see green on the scionwood. These later wood grafts are sometimes my most vigorous but I've had wood with buds just beginning to show green- but showing it, that failed.

Since you guys were talking about different grafting techniques, I thought I'd ask about my grafted Adenium. I noticed that the grafted scion has (I'm guessing) grown its own roots and caudex? That's the only assumption that I can come up with. You can clearly see the "V" notch in the original caudex. But then, if you look closer, the grafted section has its own roots and its own caudex. If it already had these, then there would've been no reason to graft it on to another caudex. Now it seems as though the newer caudex has outgrown the original. Can the grafted scions grow their own caudex? I've never seen this before on an Adenium...

When your mango seed sends up two or more plants if one is signifiantly larger than the other(s) it probably will be s new variety; the others should be mirror images of the mother tree (subject to minor changes). One of my Kent seeds produced two plants. I clef-grafted the slightly smaller plant and the graft 'took' but died while we were on a trip last month. Four new plants are visible around the base of the original seedling and I can see some green leaflets beginning to indicate a fifth new plsnt. All will be Kents, with no more than minor variations. I grafted an Alfonso mango on a Manila mango three years ago and it lived until this year. My clef graft interface was defective as I had bought a new mango grafting tool and the cutting surface was not centered properly. The junction did not heal well. Do not cut scion wood until the new emerging growth has begun growing (possibly a 1/32nd of an inch long). I strongly recommend using parafilm to wrap your scion wood and rootstock to reduce loss of moisture. Clean your tools with ~91% alcohol between cuts. I have grafted scion wood to branches only 1/16th of an inch in diameter on stone fruit but they are very difficult to handle. I recommend using ~3/16ths inch or larger scion wood. Provide shade for a few days so the junction will be a little cooler. Search on the Internet using 'Google', or other browser, with "mango grafting" as your topic. Read several different directions. Develop skills on other plants before you use your mango scion wood unless you have a ready source for more. Apples are a good fruit on which to learn. Most grafts do well if you are careful, keep your tools clean and do not touch the exposed cambium and other materials with your fingers (oil from the hands rates very highly in killing or damaging grafts.).

Hey, is there anything I could do for leaf scars turning black on a grafted maple scion or will they heal over? Last week around the 4th of July I took a greenstick cutting off a Silver Maple that is my brother's yard and I grafted it onto another Silver Maple seedling about the same thickness using the whip and toungue methos. I tore the leaves off the scion when I took the scion and then wrapped it with parafilm tape. The graft has taken and the buds on the scion look to be swelling a little. But the leaf scars are now turning black. Will they heal over or is the scion a goner? Thanks.