So as far as the comments about maples being unable to grow/thrive in this environment, well, I'm not sure true; there are many around...appreciate all of the comments but sort of getting conflicting advice. Do I spray or not? [Systemic] or spray? It sounds as if the majority believes that the tree should be saved. 1. You think you are getting conflicting advice because we can't tell what is wrong with your tree yet. 2. Chemicals may be a waste of money until it is identified what is wrong with your tree. 3. As for the statement maples being unable to grow/thrive in this environment , No. We are talking about the environment immediately surrounding the tree - the horrible lawn. It is likely the tree is getting insufficient water and gases. 3a. This means that the tree may be attacked because it cannot get sufficient water and gases in its roots. 3b. This means fix this and you may not need to spray. 3c. However a request was made for you to check for wilt. You have not responded to that. 3d. This means that it is unknown whether your tree has a bad pathogen. Until you check for this everything else is just speculation 3d(1) If you have it, the tree is done. 3d(2) If you do not, the immediate problem is that horrible lawn that is stressing the tree. Until you get that under control, you likely are going to have issues with that tree. 3d(3) From here you need to not only aerate numerous times to alleviate compaction but likely need to add amendment as well. Until you get that under control, you likely are going to have issues with that tree. Dan

Moved the mulch away. There really wasn't that much around the trunk so I don't thing that was it. Talked to another neighbor yesterday--seems that several red maples in the neighborhood died a couple years ago and the three that are left including mine are now experiencing the same thing. So, any suggestions on what I should plant back in the spot because it is apparently on the way down.

the potential problem is rhizosphaera needlecast disease i do not see it in these pix ... see link for pix ... hit the button for the web side to read up on it ... ken https://www.google.com/search?q=picea+pungens+disease&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=x-SbVZu_HY6BygSc2qroBw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=874&bih=745&dpr=0.9#tbm=isch&q=rhizosphaera+needlecast+disease

"Special attention" is a pretty subjective term. For instance, full repots that include bare-rooting, root pruning, and a complete change of soil on a regular basis is not "special attention" to me. It's simply a regular part of the program by which I'm able to keep perennials alive (trees are perennials, too) and in a high state of vitality indefinitely. Most growers are not even aware that this is the only way to avoid a steady decline and eventual death of the plant due to the effects of root congestion. This is definitely a cultural consideration that can cause problems that lead to the plant's demise. When it comes to container media, your focus would best be directed to your medium's structure, not it's ability to feed the plant. Trying to build media that are able to feed the plant is fraught with tribulation, because the hydrocarbon chains that organic materials are made of must be broken down to reduce then into elemental or otherwise usable (to the plant) forms. This destroys the soil's ability to hold a favorable ratio of air:water, which results in poor root function/health. Much wiser for the grower to work at ensuring the soil is able to retain its structure for the expected interval between repots, and shoulder the entire burden of providing nutrition. If you aren't fertilizing, you're overlooking a responsibility that belongs to all container gardeners. Lacking adequate nutrition, plants 'steal' any mobile nutrients from other plant parts and use those nutrients to fuel new growth while shedding old growth. This is not a sustainable arrangement and always ends in death of the organism unless the trend is reversed. No organism can use more energy than it can produce for long. You might find information that provides additional insight if you follow the link. Plants require conditions they can tolerate. If they can't, it leads to stress. Stress turns to strain, and the inability to make more food than it is converting to energy and using. This means the plant cannot grow. Growth isn't measured by how many new leaves a plant might produce, it's measured by the increase in dry mass; so, a plant that is putting on new growth while shedding old parts isn't necessarily growing, and plants that aren't growing are dying. I guess the main point I would make is, there's a lot more to growing things efficaciously than bringing them home from the store and watering them when they need it or we get around to it. I look at it from a scientific perspective, and I shun trial and error. Knowledge about soils and how plants work (physiologically) is the propellant by which you can most rapidly advance. Trial and error, essentially stumbling around in the dark is more a tether to bad habits than a method of learning. That's just one person's POV. YMMV Al