I think Kev is saying it's A) Far from the house or other targets, and B) The disfigured side is towards the fence and not towards his/her usual vantage point. That is one thought I had earlier-the tree does not look very large so not likely to cause much damage if it does fall over. BTW Kev, did that tree by any chance get hit by lightening? Does that strip extend right up the trunk? +oM

Based on the assumption the lane is 8 to 10 feet wide the tree looks like it is about 20 to 30 feet from the power lines. Base on the type of tree, I do not see any need to remove it. As for the low branches, unless you are willing to hire someone with climbers or a cherry picker. You can remove the lower dead branches with a hammer and a long rope. Tie the hammer to the end of the rope, and arrange the rope so it can feed freely. The throw the hammer over the dead branch, feed the rope until the hammer reaches the ground that pull the branch down by pulling both ends of the rope. MAKE SURE YOU STAY CLEAR AND THERE IS NO ONE ELSE IN THE AREA. If you can not pull the limb down it tells you something about the general state of the tree. I have used this method for years to keep my trees clean of dead wood.

I'd just pull him right off there and smash his little head or throw him to the fish.... If a bunch more show up then consider other options

Let me start by saying I've done exactly what you're considering. I remodelled my kitchen and put in roughly 12 recessed cans. My ultimate decision was to pull down the ceiling and sheetrock. Pulling down the plaster was a major PITA. It was very messy and dusty. I did both the pull down and re-sheetrock. I figured the dust from the pull-down and cutting out a dozen recessed holes...while not totally even...would still be an equal task to manage and clean. The sheetrocking was simple for me...and would be even easier for a pro. I also found that positioning my numerous recessed cans was made much easier being able to see the above subfloor joists. You'll probably also save a little $$ on electrical with an open ceiling. Your electrician wouldn't have to fish new wires for every can. Aesthetically, I don't think any one but you would ever know the ceilings weren't plaster. If the house had historic significance, that's one thing. I can't honestly say I've ever walked into some ones house and looked up at their ceilings. How about you? I do think there is also value at being able to see what's going on with that bathroom. Avoiding a potential problem will only make a bad situation worse. I do however agree with the other post regarding the cast iron vs PVC. Cast iron has wonderful sound deadening qualities that you'll never replicate with PVC. I would want to check out all supply lines to be safe. Ultimately it should depend on how much work your talking about. If it's a small plaster repair and a couple of recessed cans, then I'd probably try to save the plaster. If it's major work and numerous cans, I say take the whole thing down and start over. If you go this route, pay special attention to the dust protection and cleanup provisions of the contract. Also pay attention to how they'll protect the existing floor...if it's going to remain. Plaster is very heavy, and will damage the floor if precautions aren't taken. Good luck.