B., I was excited when you described the wings because I knew such a distinctive feature would make it much easier to ID this critter. And then you went ahead and figured it out pretty quickly which is great. I'm still not sure they're a problem, though, unless you have tons and tons of them. Lots of the little critters that visit compost piles actually help the materials break down. Since they are flies, and they like decomposing material, I think it is likely they may be using your compost heap as a site to lay their eggs so the larvae can hatch and grow in your compost pile. If having the flies in your compost pile concerns you, or if you are afraid they'll move to something else, you could use an organic product that disrupts the life cycle of the flies. Honestly, though, I think God made each and every creature for a reason, and they all have a role to play in the balance of nature and the circle of life. So, I feel like Mother Nature works best if I leave her alone. The only time I take action against one critter or another is if, for one reason or another, the population of any given creature is out of balance. Even then, I try to figure out WHY and correct the conditions instead of trying to eliminate the insect. For example, spider mites on tomatoes. Spider mites are virtually everywhere in the summer heat but MOST of the time the beneficial mites (different from spider mites) prey upon them for food and keep them under control. If something has happened to the population of good spider mites, though, the bad spider mites can get out of control. At this point you have 2 options: (1) address the situation by trying to kill the spider mites, or (2) address the situation by purchasing and releasing good mites so they can take care of the bad mites. I would choose option #2 because it is a better long-term strategy. It is more important to me to re-establish a population of good bugs, than to wipe out a population of bad bugs. Why? Because a miticide cannot and will not wipe out all the red spider mites and I am still going to need good mites in the future to wipe out the surviving bad mites. Just a little food for thought. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Nematodes for fly larvae control

Biwako - I went to options and changed it to default (I had had it set for colors to correlate with domain - and it used to work like that - but I thought I'll try anything). Again - it worked at first - and then the color goes away (it's odd - it's not just when I close a tab or open a new one that it's white - the same tab that was blue before - now is white - no colors now at all). I cannot imagine what add-on might conflict. It's a daunting task to figure out which one. I've been so wild about the FF add-ons - that I have a ton of them. I don't believe any of them were new (oh - except for extensions to try and capture hulu streaming videos). I'll try the safemode and see if colorful tabs works there. If it does, I'm willing to try eliminating those last couple of video capture extensions. If that doesn't work - I'm in for a big, long process of elimination. I don't have any color - or the other extensions that were identified as being incompatible with Colorful Tabs. But something else has gone awry - my all-in-one-sidebar doesn't work consistently either. I guess something I added or updated is causing a problem. I'll report back if I figure it out. Thanks. Lynn.

if you got air in the line coming to the unit, that is when you have to bleed or purge the line to get the air out.You can take the line apart after the valve at the fire place, with the valve off, then you have to open the valve a little to let the air out. Don't to it for very long. Lp gas will just lay in there so you have to be very careful not to bleed too much and if you smell gas do not try to lite it until you blow the gas out of there. Be very careful, it is dangerous.

Susanne, without a surfactant your foliar spray just sat on the leaf surface as drops. Using a surfactant highly reduces the surface tension of the spray, and causes the spray to form a complete film over the entire leaf surface (both top and bottom), thus GREATLY increasing the spray's efficiency. In my humble opinion red algea is worthless. Lastly, do you actually know what was the deficiency type that the tree was suffering under? Spraying this chemical and that chemical in the hopes that perhaps one of them will correct the deficiency can cause many additional problems. You can use any of the non-ionic surfactants, I always use TW-20 (aslo known as Tween-20.