Figure out a watering plan that doesn't require dragging hoses all over. Every year that is one area I improve.

Here is my setup that handles gardens on 2 sides of my home. A master shutoff, timer, 4 valve manifold and hoses run to sets of sprinklers run in series. This allows me to water 3 garden zones through sprinkers plus 1 zone for hand watering, filling a watering can, washing a car, etc. Hoses are above ground (except where they cross a path) and are hidden by leafed out plants. Open a zone, set timer for 45min..... hour later repeat with next zone. I bring in timer, disconnect and drain the hoses (flow downhill) and leave in place all winter.

Paul

The best tip I can give is,let nature water your hostas. I never water,except for new hostas,and the rain takes of the rest. I know that sounds simplistic,but that's what I do. Phil

Phil, nature doesn't water here in August and September. If you don't supplement when it's dry, you don't have many choices of plants. Not everyone lives in the Carolinas.

bkay

Hi Don,here are a few ideas:
- design your flower beds so that your mower can edge up to it so you do not spend a lot of time trimming afterwards
- put plastic edging around all garden beds to keep grass from encroaching into your garden bed
- use wood chips or some kind of mulch -feeds the soil,keeps weeds in check and less watering
- do not plant an annual or perennial that drops a lot of seed.Todays beautiful plant will be next years weed
- do not put in a plant that spreads-a quick way to end up with a jungle look
- place your plants so that they touch each other-keeps weeds down and moisture in
- keep your lawn weed free as possible-if your lawn has weeds than your garden beds will too
- if putting in 3 inches of mulch use cheap stuff for bottom 2 inches and nicer looking mulch as the top dressing
- do not have a bunch of projects going at once-work on one or two and finish them completely before staring another project-keeps stress level down
-know your planting zone and dont push the zone -lose money and a years growth of a better plant

This is all that I can think of for now.If I think of anything else I will post later.Hope some of the ideas are helpful,Phil

Here are my 2 cents!
Always clean up the yard in fall!
I found it time saving to work per a plan, and do things when you should do it or problems will take over. For example I took notes over winter and know how to start once the snow is gone and the ground is workable. I will start with picking up debris followed by raking and place some new borders into the ground. I know which supplies I have to buy in early April. I do all yard work by myself, I am retired. Establish a routine and stick with it.

I like to have my planting beds well defined, also to avoid grass running into the beds. I found that sturdy 20 ft long black-rubber borders used with 8 inch galvanized nails are the best for my yard. Weed when you see weeds, do not let them grow up, will be more difficult to remove then.

Following the cleanup, and border repair, fertilize and spread fresh mulch for looks, hold weeds down and keep plants cool. Then you should have a plan and dates for fighting insects, such as slugs and nematodes for hostas. Every time you are in the yard look for insects and mice/moles/voles and know how to fight them right then. Repeated applications will save your plants and your time.

Then you need to have a plan for watering. I use soaker hoses on 1/4 of my property, but recently have a lot of cracks, and need to have several replaced. A sprinkler company estimated that I should buy a sprinkler system from them for $5,800. with 68 sprinklers = too much. So I have a front faucet and a faucet on the back of my house and a total of 6 hoses and 4 overhead sprinklers. One hose and one sprinkler are always established in the vegetable garden for easy use from the house. There is some repositioning of hoses and sprinklers required for the landscape, always one quarter of my property at a time, I only have half an acre. Basically only my newest dwarf conifers, heathers, rhodos and all hostas need to be watered frequently. I can still handle that, and garden work is good exercise.

Annuals generally need more work and water than perennials.

Do not experiment with plants too tender for your zone, and do not put plants with small or shallow roots into high heat areas, or you are making work for yourself. In case there are coming several hot days, have shade screens ready to shade tender and recently planted plants.

Good luck! Bernd

I would like to add that if you have dogs running around, then put little fences around tender plants, like newly planted conifers, as I did. You also might need to fence out rabbits and deer, and/or spray remedies on your plants.

To save money, I buy 3/8 inch rebar in 10 foot lengths. I cut them in half to make 5 foot stakes. In the spring I use them to tie up my old fashioned peonies, then I move them to support tall phlox David, gladioli, and dahlias. They rust and blend in nicely to the garden. (I, like some others here, spare no expense on my hosta)

I second a mowing edge for making it easy, and mulch for keeping weeds down and making everything look nice. I buy 3 cu. foot bags pine bark mulch from Lowes when its on sale in the spring. It's a local special, not available at all stores. Whatch your local big box stores for specials. We (I mean my husband) chops leaves, collected the fall before for our raised beds so I don't have to buy as much mulch.

I reuse potting soil from the previous summer. I fill all but the top 10 inches of my containers with old potting soil enriched with free compost from the community compost sight. I top it off with fresh potting soil I purchased on a half price sale the year before.

Save the bags that mulch and potting soil comes in to reuse for yard work and saving soil over winter. Reusing plastic bags is cheep and environmentally friendly. Plus these bags are really strong.

Complement friends and relatives with nice gardens and plants. They may give you cuttings and divisions.

I think if I were giving a garden talk about saving work, time and money, I would emphasize building great soil organically. Adding layers of stuff you find laying around your yard, such as leaves and pine needles, makes for a great garden.

I would also mention patience.

Sorry,Bkay,I was just stating my opinion. Although,I do remember when I was in basic training in September,that we had so much mud on our boots that it took all night to wash them off! I guess that was a different Texas,than I remember,and all those hurricanes never dropped any precipitation when they went by there recently. Phil

I notice that a lot of the comments have to do with the lawn. Keeping it nice, cutting it and edging it is a pain. Get rid of your lawn and make a deck, paved patio - something that you can sweep or hose off.

Hiring professionals for paver paths and patios, building ponds, and removing trees, will save you time now, time re-doing it later, and doctor bills. One of my best time savers is using ground covers, they cut weeding way down and tie your garden together.

Does anyone have trouble with plastic edging working its way up and out of the ground...every few years...eventually needing replacing?

When we purchased our home, plastic edging had been installed around a front garden area. We got tired of replacing it, and decided to dig a trench instead. I also have trenches around many other gardens. It's very easy to mow around gardens with trenched edges!

The downside of trenches is that weeds and grass will eventually fill in the bare spots, unless I periodically clean them out.
Upside to that is burning more calories!
Another upside...it's free.

Another good edging is rocks, if you have access to free ones...ask a farmer if you can walk his field and remove rocks before he plants...He will be glad to get rid of them. Downside...is more work for you, hauling them to your garden, but you only have to do it once. Upside...burn calories! I only use rocks around my gardens that are on sloped ground. The rocks hold in the mulch during downpours. (How many of you have lost mulch during torrential rains?)

Sorry, these ideas are labor intensive...but free!

Julie

The heavy type plastic edging does not heave out of the ground due to frost/thaw cycling when you literally nail it into the ground. I use 8-10 inch long galvanized nails, not the very expensive plastic nails. I do a vertical cut on the lawn side and nail the plastic to that side every 3 ft, under a downward angle, works for me. The other side you have to refill with the dug-out soil and stamp on it.

Last year we had a thread here discussing it.
Bernd

Here's a link to the best instructions on how to properly install plastic lawn edging.

I think one of the crucial points is made in this paragraph:

"Here's the most important tip so far: don't pound the stakes straight down into the ground. Don't pound them in at a forty-degree angle, either. Pound them in at a very flat angle, twenty-five degrees max. Pounded straight down into the ground, frost will eventually heave the edging upward. Maybe not all the way, but enough so that it rises noticeably after several years."

I believe the author is incorrect, however, in saying, "Don't buy your lawn edging from Home Depot". The Home Depot store near me sells Royal Diamond Commercial-grade lawn edging in 60ft. rolls, which I have found to be very durable. The other stuff is very flimsy in comparison.

Thanks Bernd & Don!

It's been a long time since I've read articles written by the Renegade Gardener...I enjoy his expertise and humor.

I'll add the heavy duty edging installation to my "Honey-Do" list:)

Julie