Provided the weight set is the correct type for your size canner. I do know that a larger than 32 quart uses a bit different shape/size weight and post. Presto site lists the proper ones for each capacity and model. As mentioned numerous times in previous threads, the dial gauges on ALL home pressure canners are never going to be as accurate in controlling the true pressures, and are for reference purposes only. This means they show soming on a round dial that has a needle pounting to a graduted printed scale. Unless you use a hacksaw and slice off some of the weights mass it will always be venting at the proper pressure and also maintain the correct vessel pressures inside. The weights are stacked and linked togeher, and are interchagable (cane be swapped out) from 5-10-15 pounds.

I have 2 Mirros. One of each type of weight, disk style with the 5, 10, 15 lb. holes and the "ball" style that is 5 lb. without any additional pieces, 10 lb. with the bottom piece and 15 lb. with the top added. The ball type does tend to spin and hiss. If it's a straight hiss, turn it down, if nothing, turn it up a bit. I start on HI (this is the equivalent of 10 on my electric coil stove), when I get to about the 8-9 minute mark on the venting, I adjust the burner down just a tiny bit (9/5). When I put the weight on (yes, the ball type is screwed on until it drops...dumbest design ever!), I adjust to 9. Once the weight starts to spin/hiss, I adjust again to 8.5. Sometimes I still need to make another adjustment a few minutes later, but on my stove, never lower than 8. YMMV. The disk is easier, adjustments are the same...done slowly and some time between them. Dave is right....use the 3" of water rather than a measured amount. Deanna

G'morning! They float when processed in Water Bath... there is just not as much head space (top + bottom) so it was not as noticeable. I never had any problems in the past using W/B process, but unfortunately now that many varieties of tomato's have lost their acidity through modern genetic tweaking and hybridizing it is now necessary to add acid to tomatoes, including heirloom varieties when canning them :-( The level of temperature needed to kill botulism bacteria for low-acid foods can only be reached by using a pressure canner. So, I bought a new pressure canner, and now I am going through the growing pains of learning how to use it. I am just above sea level, so I only used 10 psi to process. It is quite the learning curve - it was SO much easier 10 years ago! I've always wanted to try canning Salmon though so now that I've invested in the proper equipment, that will be my next project :-) I did notice the interior of the canner was shiny ... I added a tbsp of vinegar to the water as suggested in the manual but I guess it was the lemon juice? Since I was having so much trouble getting the pressure up (took WAY 2 long on my stove), I've now invested in an outdoor cooking burner so when I get a chance I will try another batch of tomatoes and see if that improves the final outcome. I will also try using citric acid instead of lemon juice because I have a feeling I am not going to like the flavor in a few months once that lemon juice settles in :-( I was trying to avoid doing a hot pack - it is just one more step that makes it a longer process :-( I am almost at the point that I want to freeze them in the future ... seems like a LOT less trouble! I will persist tho - because I have invested 2 much time and $ 2 give up now :-) Thx again for all of your help and suggestions - I really appreciate it! :-) Have a gr8 day!

Pressure depends on your altitude. If you are above 1000 ft., and you have a weighted gauge canner, you need to use 15 lbs. If your altitude is below 1000 ft., and you use 15 lbs., your product will be fine, just a little more cooked. The time does not change with pressure canned foods,....just the pressure. This is the best reference... Here is a link that might be useful: National Center for Home Food Preservation