Yes! We actually experienced hurricane-force winds when Ike came through last year, and numerous homes on our block were damaged by tree falls - we watched it happen from our garage during the storm. Katrina and Wilma also affected us. This is an older neighborhood with lots and lots of very large trees. Ike happened about a month after the large oak fell, so I was a basket case throughout the storm. I now have a not-so-irrational fear of one of the remaining trees falling on the house, and do intend to find someone to assess the health of them before the spring monsoon season arrives. Yes, the trees around this house are either original growth or planted at the time of house build (1955), and are quite huge and very close to the house. I have an 18 month old son and worry constantly about the possibility of a fall. That huge pine Ken mentioned is two trees whose base grew together... they were tethered together up high at one point, but the tether has broken. That tree sits right outside our front door. The fact that the corner oak fell during a still early morning (i.e. no wind or rain at the time) underlines the fact that it could happen any time. Amazingly, so far we have no significant foundation damage per the home inspector 2 years ago. Again, thank you all for all your help. I'll work on clearing the base of the "sandbox pine" and will seek certified help on the remaining giants. You guys may be hearing from me again as I continue my work.

First yuou need to take a good look at the soil, never assume anything about soil. If the leaves from the trees that once grew there were allowed to accumulate you may have a pretty decent soil, but if they were, as is usual, raked up and thrown away that soil might really be pretty bad. Contact your local office of your University of Massachussetts Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what that soils pH and major nutrient levles are and then dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else you might need do to make that soil into a good, helathy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants. Here is a link that might be useful: UMass CES

Thank you all very much for your input. Now I know the direction I need to think. Unfortunately, the work had to be done all at one time, so there was no opportunity to treat the roots. I am doing a MAJOR happy dance now that this tree (and two 80' Norfolk pines) are gone and we can think about putting the "right plant in the right place" to keep the critters around :-) (BTW, a Cuban Laurel is ficus - ficus retusa if I remember correctly)

Before you plant it in the ground, be sure you want it there. Pine trees are forest trees and do well in such an environment. If you have a large piece of property to put it on that's fine. Pine trees should not be planted near a home or you will suffer the consequences later. They can and will destroy your sewer system and tend to snap off in high winds. I had two removed last year that were planted by the previous owners. Roots had traveled over 80' to reach the sewer pipe and invade them. It's also very costly to have them removed, at least 600 dollars a tree. Another consideration are the local laws concerning the removing of mature trees with in the city limits. Yes I'm talking about Houma. "gene"