As long as they use "breather plastic bags" designed for fish transport, I had excellent luck getting Tadpoles on line with 100% shipping survival via priority mail, 3x last spring and early summer. One order was lost for 2-3 days (5-6 day total shipping duration) and they still arrived happy. Plan on about $1 per Tadpole. Agree ... DO NOT buy or locally catch and move Bullfrogs!! I've had them before from a nearby lake and they do very well, but eat anything that they can get into their greedy mouth, including other frogs, fish, bats, snakes, small birds. Theyre born desperately hungry! Mine have grown from 2.5" to full 6 to 8" mature size in one summer! DNR will hate you, because they roam and often get out. They successfully track water can go a couple miles to find a new area to invade. If you like big and beautiful, look instead for Leopard Frogs. They are native to much of US but are getting rare due to loss of habitat and Bullfrog predation*. How can a Frog Person not like this green beauty? Semiaquatic frogs like Leopards and Bullfrogs will jump all over your yard at night (so must seal fence excape areas!) They quickly learn where the pond safety zone is and can take a series of rapid leaps across your yard or greenhouse and disappear under water. Mine can do this the moment I open a sllding door to go outside. If you are trying to introduce frogs from a wild gathered egg cluster(s) note that the clusters might be salamanders instead! Frog eggs within the cluster mass look like little rounded clear jelly spheres, especially visible when the cluster tears open. Whereas salamander egg clusters look like a jelly mass with no visible clear spheres inside, just the growing amphibians. When they tear open, no clear rounded spheres are evident. Both animal embryos within the eggs mass look rounded at first and then enlarge over time. Near to hatching time salamanders embryos elongate and show an arrowhead shaped head with little gills zones on the sides of their neck. It amazes me that a frog or slender little 5-6" salamader can lay a 3-4"+ diameter egg mass. The masses are not large when laid but swell afterwards. When ready to hatch, enzymes are released to largely dissolve the gel, almost in unison, releasing the babies to roam. * WARNING do not put small tadpoles or tiny frogs into ponds with Goldfish of any size. Unless there is a ton of water vegetation to hide in for instance along shallow pond margins, the fish can eat them about as fast as you eat popcorn (and at $1 per amphibian kernal). Even with cover the fish will hunt them constantly. Instead use a 5 gallon tub to the side or partially submerged, partially shaded from hot sun, and a wire cover to stop raccoon, bird or adult frog attacks. Hatched Tadpoles of any kind grow fast and very healhy when using a pond fish food. Suggest floating a few Goldfish or Koi food pellets, which they nibble on as these softens. A few 'Tads often gather around each floating pellet. Thus, you get to see the 'Tads better and little food is lost or spoils. This also helps indicate when to add more food. Make sure to also have some fine leaved pond weeds therein to hide in and nibble on. 'Tads can mouth breathe if the oxygen gets too low in the container water. However, if there is prolonged or marked frantic gulping for air, spread the 'Tads between additional containers. It is warmer in a bucket than in a pond. Avoid full sun locations unless the bucket is inset deeply into the pond or ground. Obviously, do not add 'Tads to your pond until they are large enough to NOT fit into the mouth of your largest fish! If they do not mature into adults the first year in a cooler climate they will overwinter on the pond bottom and finish their cycle the next year. If the pond can potentially ice over, use waterfall flow or small fishtank air bubbler to stir the surface and keep an open zone for air exchange. Otherwise decaying plant matter consumes the oxygen, and excess carbon dioxide and ammonia fumes can build up, killing 'Tads and fish. Much like goldfish, 'Tads will hunt out mosquito larvae in buckets or ponds. In ponds I suggest having 3-4 of the same frog species in hopes of getting a breeding pair so that the cycle maintains. Frogs can live several years and overwinter well. But for a Frog pond to stay "frogged" you are going to need a fenced yard with board blockage to 2-3' high and enough yard and vegatation to support the insect and earthworm levels needed to support the mature frog population. Fish in the pond are important to stop over tadpole = future frog population. In our yard, we keep a lotus tub with lotus to the side of the pond without fish. This is so we can put in egg clusters there when frog populations are low. If you live near a lake or bog lands and hear frogs in mating season, don't fully board fence your yard. Just BUILD IT (the pond) AND THEY WILL COME. Treefrog populations are especially mobile to the right habitat. The above is A LOT of detail and several years experience working to get frogs established in our yards at two different locations. Based on hard won experience it can take years to get right, and is easy with the right match of mostly the right habitat and then frog species. Bullfrogs are easiest but don't do it unless they surround your yard anyway. Local Toad species might work better if you don't have enough cool leafy forage zones for Semiaquatic Frogs. They still need 'Tad growth ponds to sustain.

Very nice pixs of frogs n' toads, earlybird! I love our native amphibs here. Oh, and I have a frog story to share.... I had one of those hideous Cuban frogs get into my bedroom one night about two weeks ago. There was a small gap in the screen frame (fixed now) and he somehow squeezed in. I was woken to the sound of a thud on my wall, another thud on the second wall, and then "SPLAT!!!" the little !#$*!!! jumped to the ceiling, missed, and landed on ME. I shall not share the location of the landing zone. *G* This was about one in the morning. I was NOT amused. At all. My cats were going nuts, but I managed to grab the pasty white ghost frog, go out into the back yard barefooted, whereby I almost immediately stepped in dog poop. I flung the hideous thing like a major league outfielder and it landed in the middle of the lake. I hope the fish pecked at him for a really lonnnnnggggg time. Oh I do hate those evil things. When I was down south working for the vet in Jensen Beach we used to tell people to put them (both Cuban and Bufo) in a freezer bag and freeze them to death, so that might be an option for the more squeamish.

omg im so sorry someone said that to you. I would have seen if there are forum rules and if you could have reported them. I don't understand why people can't act like adults and say something like " I don't advocate killing frogs " or " im against killing frogs " and not directly insulting people. That quote " the more people I meet the more I love my dogs " is so true. I kill any frog that comes near my house because I don't them to hurt my dogs. I believe all the ones I see are cane. I don't slaughter them. I just toss them in a shopping bag, seal tight and toss in the trash so they suffocate. If frogs wouldn't possibly kill my dogs I wouldn't hurt them but after working for a vet and seeing a few dogs a week die from coming in contact with those, im not taking any chances

Midwesternerr's advice is right. Another de-chlorinating product is "Ammo-Lock". It also helps remove ammonia from the water (caused by lots of tadpoles pooping). I use a pre-formed stiff pond liner, rather than a flexible one, to stand up to tree roots and punctures better. To avoid trapping little critters in the pond: One can also use water plants and thin, flat rocks for "ramps" to let young emerging frogs/toad and salamanders. I have a potted water willow in my small pond and the roots grow out 8-10" from the edge of the pot. The top of the pot is just above the water level, but little critters can climb out of the water via the floating/partly submerged mat of roots. Then they can walk up and exit on the little ramp I have bridging the willow pot to the pond edge. I have 2 other 'ramps' in other parts of the pond and I try and keep it full. Most emerging frogs and toads can climb the smooth plastic sides without ramps... You can get an inexpensive pump filter for small pond pumps. The one I use is essentially a plastic box around several layers of foam filter. The pump body and water intake goes inside the box, and water passes through 5-6 layers of the foam material before entering the pump. The filters/distance means even tiny critters do not get sucked into the pump. You can remove and clean it easily without disturbing the tadpoles. I recommend letting algae grow on the sides of the pond. Tadpoles eat a lot and they love munching algae. I also bring duckweed to the pond - it helps provide food, oxygen and clean the water (tadpoles poop a lot of nutrients). Besides the water willow, I have Pickerel Weed, and Lizard's tail in pots in the pond. You can supplement your tadpole's pond food with lettuce (they like Red Leaf Lettuce the best, but larger tadpoles can eat Romaine). They also LOVE daylily petals. Every now and then, especially when it's about to rain cats and dogs, I let out a few inches of water from the pond. This gets rid of some of the "old water" in favor of new. Be sure there is some shady, leaf-litter habitat near your pond. Ideally connected to larger expanses of such habitat. If the pond is in a sunny area surrounded by mowed grass, the emerging frogs and toads will have a long "death march" to safety. Finally, even if you do not have frogs/toads in your yard now, you can transplant tadpoles or tiny toads/frogs from elsewhere. But be sure to get them from ephemeral wetlands if you live in suburbia - Bullfrogs, Pig Frogs, Pickerel Frogs, etc. need larger water sources. Or get tiny toads as they emerge from their nurseries elsewhere.