Yellowing Leaves on my Dahoon Holly Tree

15 years ago

Over the past month or so I have noticed that the leaves on my dahoon holly tree I planted last spring have yellowed. There are no bugs or pests on the leaves. Just a gradual yellowing and eventually the leaves drop.

I gave it some standard fertilizer a few weeks ago. Perhaps it didn't have the right balance of things.

What is going on and what can I do to stop it?

Thanks in advance! :o)

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Comments (5)

dghays
15 years ago
Guessing not enough water since the grass around it looks dry. Dahoon hollies like it moist, but can take drought once established.

Gary
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strawberrygirlie
Original Author
15 years ago
Don't let the grass fool you. It's argentine bahia. I don't water lawns. It's a waste of water. I grew up in the droughts of Oregon so I pay no mind to yellow grass.

I have watered the tree, not perhaps as regularly as I should I will admit. I did give it a good soaking today and intend to do so weekly now per your suggestion of more water.

However I'd like to know if there is anything I should look for that may cause this - pestilence, soil chemistry etc.
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Evergreen hollies shed their old leaves about this time of year - that could explain the yellow ones if they are the old ones.
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I agree with almost everything rhizo said, but I will add that some natural burlap is treated and should also be completely removed like the synthetic stuff. Also, as stated in rhizo's link, there are conditions where even natural burlap takes much too long to break down. I make it a practice to remove all burlap whenever possible and to remove all that possibly can be removed in situations where 100% of it cannot be reasonably removed (with very large rootballs). The only thing that I don't completely agree with is the need to keep the rootball intact. A lot of the old advice stresses this, but much of the newer information indicates that this is not critical. The important thing is not to leave large air gaps when planting is complete. There are even some (not me) who make it a practice to remove all soil from the rootball before planting, and plant in only native soil. I don't believe that the burlap is playing any part in the problems you are experiencing. The only way it really could is if you had left burlap above ground level and the burlap was wicking moisture from the rootball (a pretty common problem where there is exposed burlap). Except for the wicking issue (which it sounds like you avoided), burlap issues only show up after a few years in the ground.
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Oldest leaves falling off every year during the growing season (this timing is typical for broadleaf evergreens) should be expected. If this time it seems excessive then it will be likely to be soil moisture related. As in too much or not enough. Otherwise the same thing can also be the result of a soil mineral deficiency. In this latter case the old leaves being sacrificed in order to transport nutrients to recently matured new leaves that were produced at stem ends might be considered typical of this specific syndrome. With the aftermath being healthy looking leaves only near stem tips and a gaunt looking shrub interior. Regarding the leaning over that probably indicates a rootbound condition in this instance. If bad enough the tree may go on to fail at some point, once the top is big and heavy enough to pull the entire specimen completely over. During such conditions as high winds after heavy rains. Or under snow loads where substantial snowfalls occur.
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palmcityfl
15 years ago
A native plant nursery in Palm City told me that dahoon holly is a wetlands tree. They are used on developed lots for landscaping but require irrigation. During the current drought, many of the dahoon hollies planted by landscapers on the Treasure Coast have withered and died. We haven't had substantial rain since last November. Live oaks and sabal palmettos aren't bothered by drought conditions and are thriving. Yours may be casualty of Florida's long dry season.
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dghays
15 years ago
They are a wetland and low area tree, and are native to my property, BUT, they survive just fine through extended drought here also. They just have to be helped along enough to have a full root system. I have bahia also, but usually end up with some nice green grass around my trees due to me watering them now and then. Maybe my aim is less accurate than yours!

Gary
0
gatormomx2
15 years ago
A newly planted tree needs regular watering for as long as three years - and that's in normal weather !
Seems like it is just a water issue .
No more fertilizer until the rains return on a regular basis .

From the link below :
" Growing well in full sun to partial shade, Dahoon Holly does best on moist soils since the wet, boggy soils of swamps is its native environment. Dahoon Holly can tolerate drier locations with some watering, but often has a thin crown in this environment. It is not recommended in the southern part of its range in a dry, exposed site unless irrigation is provided ."

Here is a link that might be useful: Ilex cassine: Dahoon Holly
0

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Yellowing Leaves on my Dahoon Holly Tree

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Yellowing Leaves on my Dahoon Holly Tree

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