Yeah, Ron, thank you for checking back into this thread. I think most would agree that the problem is bacterial wilt and rotation is S.O.P. in our gardens. I have tried all areas of the garden and only once have I seen a crop of peas (and hardy persistent buggers too, they flowered right through the summer heat and into the fall) and I distinctly recall that I mulched with seaweed. When using seaweed as a mulch I generally do rinse it before using, but in this case there was urgency as I had a pan full of sprouted pea seeds that were getting a bit leggy and a two day burst of hot weather was coming so I just took it straight from the 5 gallon bucket and worked it all into a 12' row. Tonight, I was watching big black carpenter ants deliberately walk around the bed (salt eh?) Anyway, frustrated by the wilting peas I was searching the internet for organic controls for bacterial wilt and came across several references to chitin, described in Wikipedia ..." The natural bio-control active ingredient, chitin/chitosan, is found in the shells of crustaceans, such as lobsters, crabs, and shrimp, and many other organisms including insects and fungi. It is one of the most abundant bio-degradable materials in the world." Also "The bio-control mode of action of chitosan elicits natural defense responses within plant to resist against insects, pathogens, and soil borne diseases.[6]" A commercial product based on crab shells is being widely used by Washington state organic potato growers to control blight. I did not have time to get to the clam banks in Seabrook so I went to Rye beach and mixed my seaweed buckets with the most fragile, dried out crab, mussel and clam shells I could find, then I mixed in several large scoops of the gray "sand" from above the high tide mark. This "sand" is gray in part due to the granite substrate but also due to a large component of pulverized crustacean exoskeletons. The gray sand is also the native beach pea's favorite growing medium. poor man's chitin? We'll see. BTW, I planted in the exact same location which saw roughly a 50% germination rate and a 95% mortality rate of those seedlings (one healthy plant left in a 12' row). Like I said in my original post, I'll give a progress or "lack-of-progress report in about a week. Doug

Born and raised in northern IL, currently residing in central IL... we did pick up one gardening zone moving south a bit. I'd give anything to live in central coastal Cali, but I'd never get my husband to agree to moving. He claims to like the winters, and does have a good reason... the cold kills off a lot of bad things, and keeps nature genetically strong. I'll buy that, but I still don't enjoy the bone-chilling cold! I get chilled in fall and don't thaw until spring! And the older I get, the more the cold bothers me physically... I'm old enough to dislike winter! The only way we'd ever move to warmer climes would be if our children moved their families there first... only then would my husband agree to a move. So, it looks like I'm stuck gardening in IL... where I must emulate a warm climate to grow orchids and other tropicals, dragging them out for summer and back in for winter... but I do get to enjoy lilacs, peonies, tulips and other bulbs and plants that are deciduous or require a chill in order to bloom. I guess it's not so bad... we have white Christmases, germ killing cold, and can enjoy plants that need the lower temps... and summer brings all the warmth and humidity that makes the garden bloom so beautifully... It may make orchid growing a challenge... but real gardeners aren't afraid of a challenge, and in fact, we welcome the chance to prove our prowess! What the hey, my Epi is still alive... I must be doing something right! :-)

"I've harvested bags of seaweed from the beach on the Florida east coast and it broke down quite nicely in my compost bin." Im having a hard time invisioning harvesting seaweed. Maybe the long strains of kelp, and the density of kelp forest, you can easily grab ahold of it,or maybe a rake harvesting tool of some sort.. But, over here swiming in the lake, we have very fine seaweed, it would seem difficult to harvest. On another note of kelp harvesting, ill leave you with a quote from Charles Darwin: "I can only compare these great aquatic forests(kelp forest)...with the terrestrial ones in the intertropical regions. Yet if in any country a forest was destroyed, I do not believe so nearly so many species of animals would perish as would here, from the destruction of kelp. Amdist the leaves of this plant numerous species of fish live, which nowhere else could find food or shelter; with their destruction the many cormorants and other fishing birds, the otters, seals and porpoise, would soon perish also; and lastly, the Fuegian[s]...would...decrease in numbers and perhaps cease to exist." ��" Charles Darwin, 1 June 1834, Tierra del Fuego, Chile Also on the note of kelp detoxifying pollutants, radiation, etc. maybe it's better if we leave the kelp do it's thing in the ocean, maybe we are doing more harm than good harvesting it, i dont know.

Soil Lover, The recommended rate of application of sea solids is 2.25 lb per 100 sq ft the first year, and 1.25 lb per 100 sq ft the second and third year. In a foliar spray or soil drench the rate is 1 (one) tablespoon per gallon of water per application. It is recommended to not use sea solids the fourth and fifth year. Since this is my third year of using sea solids I am using half the recommended rate in both soil application and foliar spray to be on the safe side. I also use Steve Solomon's homemade fertilizer blend (found here), replacing half the kelp meal with half the recommended rate of sea solids per 100 sq ft of garden. What all who see my plots notice immediately is the color of the plants and grass. They have a deep rich green color, with the vegetables having a color that is striking. The real payoff is to be found in the taste of the food. Since we all know food grown in compost has an excellent taste, to say food tastes even better IMO (as well as those who eat the vegetables) does not do the crop justice. I have two plots that are well amended red Georgia clay that could best be described as "solid as a rock" when I started. The soil today is a soft black loam, easy to work, and there is no need to use tools when working the soil. Since adding the wood charcoal to the compost, watering is not an issue. Even though the base is clay there is no pooling of water during the infrequent heavy rain we have gotten. Tilling the soil is out of the question; there is no need. This year the bed is mulched with shredded leaves. I currently have planted Golden Queen Corn, okra, and potatoes. The other beds are lasagna beds, two are three years old, and the rest were made last winter. All beds are built on sandy loam soil infested with nut grass. Mulching with either shredded leaves or book hay has done nothing to stop the nut grass; I just grow on the beds anyway. Here is a picture of squash before rain: This is two weeks later after four inches of rain: My new problem is keeping up with the picking of squash and cucumbers. The tomatoes to the left will be another issue, later. IMO, it is the combination of using cured compost, a good fertilizer blend, and mulch that gives my family the results we have become accustomed to. Since putting the focus on increasing the nutritional value of our crops we are starting to see an increase in the feeling of good health. I know my granddaughter is running around here like that "energizer bunny" banging on that drum; running everybody nuts with her antics, both at home and at day care. Although all of my comments are based on my personal experience with my garden, I don't need any other proof that Steve Solomon, Terra Preta, cured compost, aerated compost tea, sea solids, mulch, and an investment of sweat will give this gardener all he can eat, and then some... Blutranes