Thuja Green Giant help - just planted
Andreyta
18 years ago
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Markrjc
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Thuja emerald green vs. thuja green giant
Comments (2)searched the whole web.. eh??? after ten years.. my GG is 20 feet tall ... from a 4 incher planted ... after ten years.. my smargard.. emerald green ... is 6 feet tall from a 4 footer planted ... try googling green giant for it latin name ... and then add: annual growth rate... and then google for emerald green latin.. and add the same.. and you should find.. one grows 2 to 5 feet per year.. and the other 6 inches or so ..... depending on your climate.. you better have a pretty big yard for GG's ... and on either.. INSURE you buy single leader plants ... welcome to GW.. glad to help .. come back often .... ken ps: the latin names are VERY IMPORTANT.. its where you start all searching .... trust me.. i fought them for years.. lol ......See MoreBest Fertilizer for Green Giant Arborvitae (Thuja Green Giant)
Comments (5)A friend of mine planted about 100 Green Giants about three years ago. They were about 18-24" tall when he planted them. Green Giants are pretty deer resistant, but where my friend and I live there are just too many deer in a small area (island) for that to mean much. The first year he planted these 100 Green Giants, the deer destroyed about 25 of them. After he replaced them, I recommended that he start using Milorganite fertilizer around the trees to keep the deer away. (It's an unadvertized fact that Milorganite acts as a deer repellent.) He started dumping Milorganite around the base of the trees on the perimeter of his property and the following year those were nearly 2ft. taller than the other trees (same growing conditions). Needless to say he started using it around all the Green Giants and this year some of the ones that he started using it on first are taller than me (6ft.). I started using Milorganite on my lawn a few years ago to keep the deer away that were eating my plants and it did wonders for my lawn. I started dumping it around all my perennials, mixing it in with the potting soil for my annuals, and tilling it into my vegetable garden. Everything improved! The stuff is like the Frank's Red Hot commercial... I put that s*#& on everything! I'm not sure it's the "best" fertilizer for your Green Giants, but it's definitely good. In the past I was always afraid to fertilize because I'd overdone it too many times and killed/burned too many plants and lawn. Milorganite is organic, so you can't really use too muich... it will just sit there on/in the soil until the soil microorganisms can consume it. Good luck!...See MoreThuja Green Giant planting times
Comments (24)JFW432, it should be much easier on you, and you will not have to wait all that long if you wait until this hottest part of the Summer's heat breaks to plant those trees you posted in your photo on July 14th. If you plant them when daily high temps exceed 95 degrees,and if your soil is well draining they will need much more watering. Or if you plant them now, you might not see much growth out of them for several more years than if they were planted in your early fall months, or whenever the daily high temps do not climb above 98 degrees F. at those times in your area. Another thing to remember, is that GGs will change color in the winter if they are exposed to more winter sun and and wind. Planting them in a more sheltered area like with a north western exposure that where they are sheltered from large trees or buildings and fences directly to thier South and East, these GGs would be sheltered enough to avoid the winter browning problems mentioned above. Or even planting them where they will get morning sun and afternoon shade will help them out in your area. So in summary try to avoid planting them in area where they will be exposed to Southern or direct western and Northwestern exposure. That is if you agree it will bother you to see them change to their redish bronzy brown color that the other people are complaining about. In sandy soil at any location, use a non-burning slow release Osmokote type fertizer and water your trees daily for the first 2 weeks after planting. Then begin to slowly decrease the watering until you are only watering them twice a week. Keep watering them twice a week for about then next 6 months if your area is not getting regular rain events. after than your trees should be fine if you gradually slow down on the watering frequencly until you get find they are still doing Okay when you water them only once a week. Continue that weekly watering Unless you enter a period of frequent and sufficient rains, so much so that you can decrease the watering, or at such times in Summer of 2010 when the heat returns and the tree might need to again be supplimentally watered at least twice a week or more depending on how quickly draining the soil in in their planting bed. Osmokoke usually is sold in 3,or 4, and if I remember right even longer effective durations each per application. In my are I would only need to apply the Osmokote in late march and early September. Since your growing season is probably long than in my area, you might need to apply it 3 times or even 4 depending on how well draining your soil is. If your planting bed is slow to drain, then ignore the above suggested watering and feeding schedule, and test your tree's planting bed for their moisture level before giving them any more water. I say that because these trees roots will suffer signicantly is they are planted in clay soil which drains slowly and leaves the soil where they are planted saturated for extended hours of time. In moderate to heavy soil beds your goal would be to only keep the soil slightly moist and make certain that soil has become fairly dry before supply another application of supplimental watering. Also if the soil is clay do not add amendents soil to the back fill when planting the trees. If you want to give your trees the benefit of good compost soil, apply that compost as a mulch on top of your planting bed, and cover that compost with a thin layer of with a shredded ceder mulch if your need to prevent errosion from occuring in the planting bed or beds. Just keep both the compost and the mulch about 4 to 5 inches away from the trunks of your trees. Then here's another suggestion, keep in mind that on GGS any branch that you cut back to the trunk will remain bare. I mean, that no new branch will grow to fill that area of the trunk in. So if you want to do any pruning on your GGS never cut deeper than the green leaf folliage. Even if for any reason some of the the lower branches of your trees go dry and drop their leaves do not cut those branches off. You can instead simply water the tree more appropriatly long enough and the tree should at the appropriate time award you with growing new leaves on that previously dead looking branch. Oh almost forgot. The branches on these trees will die if large dogs are allowed to spray them. Such constant applications of the high content ammonia will begin to show signs of making the leaves turn red and then black just prior to when entire branch will die. If the soil is in the tree's planting bed is saturated with such high contents of ammonia all season long then in the next most stressful season some of the worst affected trees will be more prone to die no matter how much you attempt to care for them....See Moreplanting thuja green giants in midsummer
Comments (2)I planted 12 8-10 ft Thuja green Giants in the late Spring ,last year and you should use bone meal and some peat moss with your native soil, the peat will reatan some moisture and then water them good once or twice a week when there is no rain predicted. They all look great knock on wood....See Moreconifers
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