I think L. punctata, its from Kansas. It is not happy or else just drunk-- maybe its crawling from too much spring rain on the bottom of the slope? It put out those snakey stems in early August, then it put up a bunch of new straight ones that bloomed in fall which was sort of weird. The ones planted up higher on the slope were straight, much shorter & bloomed later. I sent a big bagful of seed south down Austin way. This post was edited by TexasRanger10 on Tue, Apr 15, 14 at 1:56

Shivadiva..Wo! When you took your lemon tree outside last June, did you have it in the same area it was in previous years? I'm curious if by chance it received less light than the past? You mentioned medium light..not full sun? Citrus need direct sun, especially variegated.. Why did you trim roots? Trim roots than transplant in, 'possibly' a larger container? How much space is between rootball and inside container? The reason I'm asking is, in many cases, some ppl have a tendency to overwater. Large pots = more soil, more soil = more water, and chances are if overwatered, soils remain continuosly wet, plant will die: Overwatering is #1 killer. Symptoms include yellowing and/or 'leaf drop,' white fuzzy mold around trunk or atop soil. Mushrooms. You said, 'I did not flush the pot since I didn't know about that. I used Cactus soil for that.' What does that mean? lol.. Did you use other mediums with cactus soil. Cactus soil is well-draining, but I don't know how it does without adding other mediums. People use soil, soil-less and combined mixes. Although I use Perlite, sand and sphagnum peat, (soil-less) IMO, citrus need 'fresh soil' for nutrients. Some will disagree, it's a matter of choice. Cactus soil differs depending on brand..some are well-draining, others hold water. Why did you choose Cactus soil? What size is its new container? Measure diameter, from one side straight across to the other. As long as stems are alive, let them be..live branches are flexible. They bend without snapping. To check whether or not a stem is alive, scrape a little outer bark. If the inside is green, it's alive, if brown/tan and breaks, it's a goner. Clip off dead branches, and remove any damanged leaves. You did the right thing withholding fertilizer. Since winter's approaching there's no need to add any now. If it were my tree this is what I'd do. Place in the brightest south or west window. As soon as sun sets, on would go artificial light. Allow soil to dry between waterings. To check, I'd insert finger or probe deep in soil. If finger or probe is wet/moist, I'd wait a few days and retest. Once a week I'd carry to sink/shower and hose foliage, plus daily misting. Keep away from heating sorce, especially vents. Preferable temps above 50, below 68F. Once a month I'd add Superthive. If air is dry amd stuffy, I'd invest in a humdifer, and turn on a rotating fan a few hours a day. Air from fan should't be aimed on plant. Dead branches and leaves removed. Come longer days, a well-dilluted dose of Citrus/Azalea fertlizer would be given. Or Miracle Grow. Repotting can cause shock, too. Insect inpsection should be done once a week, especially in winter. Good luck, Toni

>I have both in my collectionAlways keep in mind that when you acquire a plant under a name it may not represent the full extent of material that has been grown under that name. This becomes important when making comparisons or descriptive comments. The '-----' you got from ----- may not be the same as the original or even fit the contemporary concept of that variety. Old, Latin name cultivars from the 19th century are often not possible to link with certainty to plants being grown today under the name. Multiple different clones may be in circulation when a name has been used a long time. I read the account of 'Irish Gold' when the name was founded, don't remember how 'Zebrina Extra Gold' came into it. It is possible 'Irish Gold' was supposed to replace 'Zebrina Extra Gold' as a name for the same cultivar. Around 1994, when I went to England a nursery there sold me separate forms under the two names, which I grew for a short time and then discarded. As I remember it the 'Irish Gold' - of that supplier - had reddish or bronze tinting of the new growth that was not so apparent in the form provided as 'Zebrina Extra Gold'. One of similar appearance to 'Zebrina Extra Gold' may have been sold here as 'Canadian Gold'. Or that name may have been used for something else, perhaps a form of Thuja occidentalis. Or both usages of the name may have occurred. I think the last time I saw plants under the name they appeared to belong to the eastern species.

From the beginning (just read this thread) - Those plants are seedlings. Bob Fincham of Coesnosium Gardens (Link Above) has at least once on this forum discussed this topic. Plus the tag indicates they were seed grown/or were grafted from seed grown "mugo's". That's evident to me. The 'Sherwood Compact' clone is as Mike states a replica of 'Teeny'. In my newest fact-related conifer book: '(Erhardt, Walter) List of Conifer Names' - he states that 'Sherwood Compact' was introduced the same year as 'Teeny' (1986). The designation of 'Teeny' however was listed as being introduced (either by registration or scionwood shared, etc) under the name of, Lohbrunner while 'Sherwood Compact' just received the designation, "Hort. USA". I suppose in a case such as this, if you were to purchase either plant, you'd still get a great clone. Lately, I've been dealing with the history of Pinus x 'Forest Sky' (ayacahuite x 'hybrid Pine'). You guys wouldn't believe that from the very beginning, when scionwood was initially collected and distributed to growers, that the plant became known under at least three different names. It's of course simply amazing to me that when scionwood is collected by nurserymen that a label doesn't go along with the wood and the history as well. It's mind-boggling at times. Dax