Ok, here is mine: 5 gal potted (FF), 'picea abies' 'pendula', 2-3' ... more like 2' I'd say. soil is clay, but is better in top 2-5" due to topsoil accumulated from flash flooding (not a problem anymore); ph 7 ish ... winds possible, but somewhat protected by 4' fence and currently 2' high silt fencing. Considering either training leader for vertical, or letting this one grow into my large cobbled swale, which is for emergencies (if underground drainage fails somehow), but probably won't ever be used). The swale is about 2' down ... so I envisioned it might be cool to train it to weep out over the rocks (with or without training?) This one was planted a few weeks back and is already showing the start of new green growth (not in picture). I'm getting the (initial) feeling these norways like it in CO. Planted another 6.5' (same variety) further down this same rock swale ... and its already trained vertically in has a nice straight leader. Look at this picture, there does seem to be a branch that is bigger than the others, maybe not the longest, but probably the biggest around.

Pinetree30: You suggest that late setting winter buds, or growth extensions of the original shoots that continue for longer, are more likely to have frost kill the terminal bud. Well, that doesnt fit with any observations I have made. In fact, the growth of the Norway spruce shoots on my timberland in the mountains of western MD continues, most years, into August, and I see less terminal bud failure there than I see here in Winchester, VA, where the shoot extension of Norway spruce is generally finished by early July. And the winters are much, much more harsh in the MD mountains, with temps of 15 below happening fairly often, and an all time low of minus 40 has been recorded. The growth of the terminal shoots in Western MD is generally somewhat more than I generally see in Winchester. In addition, the spruce that had the free growth last year--about a dozen had substantial free growth that began after the initial shoot elongated--set their winter buds much later than the other spruces that simply elongated their original shoots in the usual manner. One, the one that had total growth of close to four feet, did not stop that growth and set any visible terminal but until early September. All the spruce that had the free growth and set winter buds late, had their terminal buds grow just fine this year, and the extent of the growth was about the same as the other young Norway spruce. And as for the spruce pictured in this topic here. I have seen this literally hundreds of times--spruce tops that look exactly like this. At about this time of year, depending on the location, one or more of these will start to turn upward. Usually more than one will begin to turn upward, but one will usually be clearly more erect and by this time in another year, will be a clearly dominant leader. Anderson: Please take a picture or two in a few weeks and post so we can all see them. At that time there will be one or more of the side shoots more or less erect, but it will still have a curve in it. Then take another picture at the end of September, or later. At this point it should be even more erect and have less curve. Finally, after the shoots have elongated next year--say by the middle of August--take another picture for us. At that point the new leader should be nearly "ramrod straight." We have had discussions about Norway spruce re-establishing a lost leader several times, but usually not with pictures like you have given us, and never with any follow-up pictures. Oh, pinetree: You say I "attribute" the long shoots to free growth. I posted a topic about this a few months ago--and yes, finally, with pictures. I will re-post in that topic in a month or two, with a new picture or two, and you can see them and judge for yourself what was happening--whether it looks to you like free growth or not. If the pictures I have posted are not enough, I actually took quite a few and can post some more from last year. But most of the long shoots I see on Norway spruce--those of 30 to 36 inches or more--are not the result of free growth. I have observed occasional free growth for years, but it is rather unusual. This last year those I observed in my planted spruce here in Winchester were the nmost "dramatic" I have seen. But the 12 or so that had substantial free growth--averaging about 10 inches or so per tree, were out of about 350 I have planted here. There were a number of others that had additional small extra shoots, both on the leader and on side branches, but I have not counted those. --spruce

You know to plant or not to plant and when to plant is a decision that has to be made individually. We all have our different methods and free advice to give. As for me I don't leave them in the pots all summer to become more root bound with continued growth held in check because of the restricted environment it is being subjected to. The longer grown in this state the more compromised the conifer becomes over time. If put in the ground, planted properly, and cared for I have always experienced better results. I plant all growing season. Of course climate and even micro- climate plays a big part in success or failure and where you live should be taken into consideration. Transplanting is a different issue all together. Either Fall or early Spring is the only time to do this. 4-5 ft. trees do not need to be staked unless you are training them for vertical growth. Once you have a dominant leader then the need for staking is over. This is not to say it will grow a completely straight vertical trunk. It bends and twists on it's upward growth which is the nature of this conifer. Lateral growth will be substantial as the tree matures. I have two of them. One puts out twice as much lateral growth as the other. There seems to be no consensus on the true identity of this cultivar. It takes on so many forms mostly irregular, erratic, semi-prostrate, mounding, etc. Purchased in 1-2 year old grafts you can decide how you want them to grow. This conifer is sold in most Nursery's under the cultivar name as 'Pendula'. Correct cultivar name is 'Reflexa'. Get them in the ground and start enjoying. Always a great focal point conifer. Dave

By the way, 12 cedar trees from BB HD a year earlier also turned brown and died. ==>>> so if i understand correctly... EVERYTHING you have bought.. from bigboxstore has died.. or is dieing... and you want us to tell you why?? am i with you so far???? well... wait for it... its because you are buying carp stock from a freakin hardware store.... buy quality stock.. and avoid these problems... you cant turn a bad plant.. into a good plant with fertilizer.. good soil... or anything else ... just stop buying bad plants... especially end of the year bargains .... this is a case of trying to make a bargain work... and with trees.. it doenst work all the time.... mail order some quality stock from some place like conifer kingdom... or any local SPECIALTY conifer nursery .... and 99% of your problems will be solved [. this will not help the one planted 6 inches from a wheel-less car.. next to an 8 foot wall ... well it looks like a cinder block there ...] and with your desire.. and limited space.. you need to look for mini conifers... so you can collect a few .... and use very little ground .... below is a pic of 15 or so mostly mini conifers around my patio .... i admit i screwed up on putting a few small dwarfs there .. but one thing for sure.. you wont find these at the hardware store.... ken