Missy, I'll get back to you later in the day. I've got a report the the AHS National that I HAVE to finish when I get back from the farmer's market. I've got some good pictures and instructions on how to make the boxes.

Please do share those photos and instructions here. I'm sure others could benefit from seeing them.

Debra

I'd like to see them, too!
Kathy

OK, folks, we have a problem! I don't do Photobucket so I don't post pictures. But I did send 2 pictures to Lin and promised to snail mail the instructions.

Here is a deal: Lin, if you will post the pictures, I will input the instructions and post them right here. We will see if this will work!

Hey everyone! Here are detailed instructions on how to build a daylily box. My hat is off to the Kinnebrews--they showed us how to do this. We followed their instructions to a "T". My husband swears that it would take a front-loader to destroy and remove these boxes when we decide to move. Hope we never do!

BUILDING A DAYLILY BOX

Before starting construction of your daylily box, draft a written plan to make it easy to determine the supplies you need. Determine the size of box you want to build.

SUPPLIES:
My husband and I used pressure treated 2x10s for construction. All the cuts were done at LoweÂs at no charge when we purchased the lumber.

Stainless screws arenÂt necessary when you donÂt live near the beach, but they will prevent rust streaks. We used ¾" #8 rounded head sheet metal screws that fit snug against the metal brackets that were used for reinforcement. We also used 3" tapered stainless sheet metal screws to secure the corners plus ¼"x3.5" lag bolts. In this project, 3" #10 screws were used for smaller boxes and 3" #12 screws were used for larger boxes. The ¼" lag bolts are available in galvanized or stainless. Lag bolts should be countersunk. Using one of these with a couple of 3" screws should keep the corners from splitting and separating. (Nails can be used but will work their way out and allow the corners to spread.)

To form the bottom of the box, commercial grade (4.1 oz weight) woven ground cloth provides a strong, yet permeable barrier. Attach it to the lower edge of the box with u-shaped galvanized poultry staples (they look like u-shaped nails). This ground cloth is usually available from stone vendorsÂpeople who sell a large volume of stone for walls, walks, etc. There is a place here in Central Florida (in Bunnell) that sells it by the foot. It comes in 3, 4 and 6 foot widths. Ground cloth is the only bottom material you will need if you set the box on the ground.

For true raised beds, box bottoms are covered with ground cloth which is supported with hog fencing. Available at LoweÂs, we used galvanized 14 ga welded fence that is 48" wide and 50 ft long. It cost us $29.86/roll. We used poultry staples to secure the ground cloth and then more poultry staples to attach the fencing. After the fencing is secured, pressure treated 2x4Âs or 2x6Âs are attached across the bottom of the box to tie box walls together and to provide support when the box is set on top of concrete blocks. Again, we used 3" screws to attach the 2x4Âs.

CONSTRUCTION:
A rectangular box is very basic. We make our beds no more than 4 ft. wide so I can reach to the center of the box when I plant. Screws and lag bolts secure the corners and corner reinforcement brackets from LoweÂs add rigidity and strength. Pressure-treated wood is heavy and usually wet (it clogs up the drill bit!). Be sure to use a metal reinforcement near the inside bottom corner because soil is heavy and it causes a strong outward force. Tops and bottom corners should be reinforced with "rigid tie angles". All braces and reinforcements should be secured with ¾" #8 round head sheet metal screws. If you want to make angular and odd shaped boxes (like I did) the reinforcements are different than they are for square corners.

When you box is complete, flip it over. If you intend to set the box on the ground, your last step will be to attach ground cloth to the box with poultry staples. If you intend to raise your box, attach the ground cloth, welded fencing (described above) and wood support s before turning the box right-side-up and placing it on concrete blocks.

At this point, you are ready to fill the box and plant it!

Beachlily's raised bed picture one:
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Beachlily's back yard raised bed.

Thank you, Lin!