Move it now. Temps are cool but not terribly freezing so the ground should be very workable and we're in a dry-stretch, great for working and the rains to come before Spring will help it establish well. Dig a nice sized rootball if you can, the bigger the better. The one suffering some leaf burn I'd recommend leaving it there IF the damage is not severe each year. Eventually the burn will lessen some and the color will be greatest in this situation, especially if you can provide it with quite a bit of water. If the damage is severe, move it to a spot that gets shade from about 3pm on in Summer. A rootball for the trees should be something at least similar to the size of the pot you bought them in, or if you didn't buy them, to roughly the size pot you see similar trees in at a local nursery. A 2'x2' 'circle sounds right here. Goodluck! -Will

Beautiful jagasian! Congratulations and thank you for your well organized list of techniques and observations....plus the reminder to change my reservoir water. I've been doing aeroponic cloning of conifers on and off for a few years now with mixed results. My sprayers are on a timer which has them come on for only a few seconds at 30 minute intervals (which is hard on the pumps). I really like the idea of a fogger and wonder if you would please post a photo of how it is positioned in the cloner? I've always waited until the cuttings were well rooted before transferring them out of the cloner, to the point of sometimes even having to trim roots. Mine are potted into the smallest container the roots will fit into (usually a 3 inch pot) using my propagation mix of 3 parts coarse perlite and 1 part fine coir. The roots are fragile and may clump together so I gently spread the roots apart inside their empty pot, then carefully add media around the roots. If your potting mix is dry it will flow nicely around the roots, then water immediately. Since cloners are usually indoors, along the shock of being transferred, the newly potting cuttings should be babied for a while with humidity and shade. Ken's suggestion of continuing your experimentation by potting up cuttings at different stages of root growth is definitely worth doing to find what works best for you. Please post updates as things progress! Barbara

Giant Sequioas are hardy enough to grow on well-drained, rocky slopes with absolutely no rain for 6 months out of the year. They'll do just fine no matter where you are in Greece, and they don't need to be babied with irrigation beyond the first year in the ground. Sure they'll grow faster at higher elevations (Mount Parnitha seems to be in need of some trees) but they'll live just fine even at sea level. It's possible that the roots are affected by fungi - pots don't allow good oxygenation, and while you may think the soil is dry on top, it may be constantly boggy at the bottom, creating a conducive environment for fungi. If you're worried that the tree won't survive until October, then go ahead and plant it in the ground now, and water it thoroughly every day until the winter. If you want to keep the plant in a pot, the only fertilizer I would use is Seaweed extract, which will provide any micronutrients it needs without burning the roots. This post was edited by bluecone on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 13:05

Tom Tasselmyer (such a Baltimorean name) is reporting that January was the 8th coldest January in Baltimore history. The official records for Baltimore go back to 1871 though the records prior to 1893 are not catalogued at SERCC. The average IIRC was 27F. Coldest ever was 1977 at 22F. The Barnes Foundation Sequoia was planted in 1971 so it would have survived that. None of mine have 'tons of dieback' so far. I'd say it varies from minimal dieback on the largest one, which is about 7' - mostly snow burn near the snow line - to 30% needle damage on my smallest plant. 'Atlanta' might be a hair tougher than 'Chapel Hill'/'Swarthmore'. 'Soquel' has the least damage but it is the big one. Lows were 3F, several times during the month, and a couple 48 h+ stretches that stayed below about 15F. FWIW Pseudotsuga sinensis has similar burning just above the snow line. We had the longest stretch of powdery snow "lying on ground" as the Brits say, that I can remember. 95% of the time here, powdery snow will be mush within 3 days. It stayed cold for so long that a lot of things show a ring of damage where light was reflected by the snow. Even something as hardy as Cryptomeria has completely dead branchlets in that zone. I think I might have posted earlier that I was surprised by how little damage there was in the first freeze. Sadly, the 2nd and 3rd were just too much for various plants. Particularly the 2nd round of snow, which was accompanied by even stronger winds than the first. Maybe they were more brittle because of the earlier freeze, but all of my arborescent Ericas (hey, they kinda look like conifers) were totally destroyed, stems split clear to the ground. I've never seen that in almost 20 years of growing Erica arborea alpina, for example. Not 'alpine' enough, apparently. The foliage was fine though. It's sad to see the green foliage attached to broken stems and dying from the point of the break upward. Camellias are ok so far, including 'Aida' which is the hardiest C. X williamsii, I was lucky I didn't go below 0F as most points about 15 miles north of me in York and Lancaster Cos. did.