I'm putting in a new bed with mostly shade because it's under a bald cypress tree. Very poor drainage there, so moist is an understatement. I'm going with Winterberry (said to LOVE boggy situations...we'll see!). Know we'd have more berries w/ more sun, but should at least have some, since I'm also planting a male Winterberry to take care of the berry situation. I have Red Sprite Winterberry and Berry Nice Winterberry, with the male being Jim Dandy Winterberry. Am looking forward to watching them develop. Am also putting in ferns of various heights, then have galvanized washtubs there that I am going to plant without worrying about the drainage.

Have you considered aspidistras (cast iron plant)? I love them and have large pots of them in various situations. They don't seem to mind whether they are in full sun or full shade or anything in between, are extremely hardy to frost and cold (although the leaves tend to get a bit tatty in windy situations), and don't seem to notice if you forget to water them. The leaves, dark green and a bit stripey, have a tropical look to me and an established pot looks lush and rich. They do have flowers but these are insignificant and bloom almost at ground level and will only be found by accident.

Phox pilosa , shrimp plant , iron plant, Greek pattern plant. wandering jew, lirope , salvia roemeriana,scuteleria ovata, agave braceosa, sago palm ( it will need fronds trimmed off after a freeze). This post was edited by wantonamara on Mon, Jan 19, 15 at 10:53

Very happy to find "Ace Hardware pine bark mulch", which are well-composted this Oct, and have plenty of pine-fines inside. I make my rooting-area in advance for next spring .. by that time the pine-mulch/pine-fines will be more decomposed & less acidic. The rooting powder that Bluegirl mentioned helped TREMENDOUSLY. Things take roots much faster. Do you make a slit at the side of the lower cane like Connie of Hartwood? Or do you slice a piece of outer-layer off like Kitty of California? I'm too lazy, so I do it California way, scrape a vertical piece off from the end, with my paring knife. For indoor & winter: I still don't like covering the plant with a plastic dome, it goes against my logic: cover anything up, and it will surely rot & get moldy !! My kid sprouted some mung-bean in a plastic cup, she covered it, and within a few days white mold grew on it, so gross !! This winter I plan NOT to cover with plastic, and simply squirt the soil lightly with a hand-mister. My neighbor kept a geranium through the entire winter. In freezing March I visited her: she kept the geranium on the window-sill (morning sun), and squirt it twice a day. And it was blooming tons !! I kept house-plants indoor in the winter and was foolish to water it, that was messy: water dripped on carpet, then whiteflies, then rotted stem (too wet). Hand-mist lightly is so much better, since leaves do take up water & nutrients .. same with stem I also put hydrogen peroxide inside my hand-mister to prevent rot. Bluegirl shared how Josh in TX put a paper towel on top of the rooting area to hold in moisture, great idea !! I'm convinced that hard-wood and thick cuttings NEEDS MUCH LESS MOISTURE. Versus the "greener & thinner" stems which dry out faster, thus need more moisture. The "alfalfa sprouts" type of root need constant moisture ... folks do keep alfalfa sprouts in a plastic pouch at grocery store. But the woody & chunky Dr.Huey-rootstock rots easily in poor-drainage clay. As own-root matures from "alfalfa sprouts" to hard and woody roots, they become more sensitive to standing-water and acidity.