Deer resistant shrubs that might work for you include Kalmias (mature sizes vary, but these shrubs are not cheap), spireas (the smaller ones), Iteas, 'Palibin' lilacs, Lespedeza 'Spring Grove' and 'Little Buddy', Nanho Buddleias, junipers and others that I can't think of right now, including some of the smaller viburnums. Some of these plants need more sun than others. Also deer resistant are ornamental grasses. If I were planting the area you describe, I would mix plants, grouping the smaller ones, like the spireas, into plantings of 5-7. Try to avoid planting in a straight line. Also, keep in mind that deer resistant is NOT deer proof. If deer have the run of a property, they will taste anything new and are bound to develop a taste for something that ordinarily they would have little interest in. Keep new plants sprayed and make a real effort to get deer to avoid your property. It can be done.

If coreopsis is blooming under the tree, it isn't completely shaded. You might try a low growing evergreen shrub, such as one of the hollies, or even ornamental grasses such as Penesetum alopecurides "Hameln" or "Little Bunny." The grasses will die on top, but the dried tops look lovely all winter with their fuzzy flowerheads and tan foliage. They reshoot in the spring.

Thanks again for your suggestions! I was just really disappointed, I am going to contact her, don't want to say who it is , cause they have sent such great plants and nice bonuses the last two years. I also have two others from her that didn't bloom last year and now have scapes, so I think I will wait to see what they are, maybe the labels got mixed up on my order, and one of those is my Blueberry Sundae, although, this one that did just bloom doesn't look like any of the others that 40> Zone (optional): Subject of Posting: Message: Optional Link URL:    Name of the Link: Information about Posting You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account. Please review our Rules of Play before posting. Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos. After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it. Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use. We have a strict no-advertising policy! If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum. If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help. Learn more about in-text links on this page here Return to the Daylily Forum Most Recent Posts Tree Fuschia at Palais Royales de Laeken, Brussel, Belgium â¢Â by sandyslopes Frameless Inset Cabinets? â¢Â by jdesign How do you deal with raccoons? â¢Â by chikn Plumberry Glow â¢Â by bloodyfrancois Suggestions, please. Plants for dry sandy shade area? â¢Â by bluegirl Strawberry plant leaves turning brown â¢Â by bopwinter preserving unplanted bulbs for fall 2015 â¢Â by linaria non-Austin English roses â¢Â by adamharbeck Gotta do something to increase sales, stay in business â¢Â by TheRipeTomato Chronology of events â¢Â by Chris705743 Explore GardenWeb Ann's Cream Cheese Babka Perfect for Holiday Baking Feeding...

Hi xineohpinakc, Sounds devastating, but it may be saved if we can diagnose some symptons or you can show us some pictures. Here follows a cut and paste of mine from another hibiscus site I contribute to, describing that your plant may be suffering from Phytophera. You will read that it also refers to plants in ground, though majority of info applies to both in pot and in ground: Phytophera as I know it is a disease of the outer layer of bark, ie the thick whitish layer between the centre hard wood and the brownish outside of the branch / trunk - it is known as the cambium layer. It is a soil borne disease, from a common fungal organism present in most soils, but prone to proliferate in wet conditions and happy to take advantage of certain situations where a plant is under stress for some reason. Specifically I have found that stress to be in situations where you expose your plant to excesses of water, most often when combined with coldness or where you may have overfertilized a plant or where a plant goes from very dry conditions to very wet conditions and cannot use the extra water because of a lack of food to stimulate growth or where you will have pruned your plant well and you overwater it / it rains for days on end. In all these cases, some of the roots are prone to damage and phytophera seems to get in. The disease can become evident anywhere on a bush, but in my experiences, it firstly shows up on branches. You do not see drooping of the leaves with phytophera. (Where drooping of the leaves cannot be corrected by watering, it is probably another type of fungal disease). Potted plants are more quickly diagnosed than ground grown as you can see the wetness of the mix. This is a general guide to follow and is a progressive disease that takes time to show development of all of the symptoms:  You may notice that certain plants have changed their water needs and are not dryi Most Recent Posts Railroad ties â¢Â by bozarth Older Daylilies (1990 or Earlier) â¢Â by billi_goats_gruff My adenium blooming under lights. â¢Â by Christine20 Is this Millipedes in my houseplant soil? â¢Â by ronalawn82 Tree Fuschia at Palais Royales de Laeken, Brussel, Belgium â¢Â by sandyslopes Frameless Inset Cabinets? â¢Â by jdesign How do you deal with raccoons? â¢Â by chikn Plumberry Glow â¢Â by bloodyfrancois Suggestions, please. Plants for dry sandy shade area? â¢Â by bluegirl Strawberry plant leaves turning brown â¢Â by bopwinter Explore...