I think the tree will live. It will take a few years to hide that scar, but it should be fine. If next year turns out hellish hot and dry, you probably should make sure it gets supplemental water. Other than that, I've seen worse rubbings where the tree lived.

Heck, I've done worse than that trying to kill a Black Walnut here. I took the chainsaw and cut a ring of bark 2 inches wide down to the deadwood about 90% around the tree. I was hoping to kill it, let it stand for a few years, then get the rest of it down. Instead, it has continued to live and shower me with tiny useless walnuts in September. Want a pic? Just ask and I'll get one for you.

Your Maple should be fine.

it could survive ... if all that was left.. was a half inch of intact bark ...

the vascular system of the tree is the green layer you can see at the top of the scar ... it moves water and food up and down the tree ... if nearly any part is intact..t eh tree has a chance..

since your wound .. is less than 25% ... there should be no problem getting over it.. as long as the darn thing doesnt come back tonight and finish it off..

ken

I have done a lot of reading on this particular problem as I have experienced it so frequently over the years. Yes, it will survive, unless it does get super stressed next growing season. (If there is drought, water.) I The injury will take a couple of years to seal itself off-- apply NOTHING (tar, paint, etc.). You could protect the trunk from further injury with those metal or heavy plastic tree guards but don't beat yourself over this. Deer are less likely to do this with trees with low hanging branches so I refrain from pruning them to discourage them. They seem to target young, recently planted trees but will revisit even medium large trees over the years.

I have a similar damage on a small maple. The bark is off of about half of the diameter of the trunk for about 3' (The tree is about 9 feet tall) While the tree seems to be thriving, I have written it off as a permanent tree in the landscape plan, since I assumed the center of the tree would rot and weaken the tree when it is larger.

Will this large area of exposed will it rot and weakening the tree as it gets big?

The open wound does not help. Clean out any rotted damp wood and.watch the encapsulation. If the tree closes over before the rot spreads you shoukd be mostly good. Many large trees have small areas of rot in them.

Too bad we don't know how to treat "dead" heartwood w/o possibly killing the live outer tissue. I have a whole theory on "we treat decks but not wounded trees". Well, more of a whine lol.

im sure my daughter can give you a good tip on deer eradication. she seems to have become very good at it over the holidays. that is the very reason i need to plant big trees on the farm

'm no specialist but it looks cosmetic so far. I have lost a young oak to buck rub and have left the low branches on the young oak remaining near where the "killed" one was and I agree with njoasis (so far this fall, anyway) that they are avoiding trunks of trees with bottom ( Although skinny) branches left on. Well, good luck anyway.

Ken, the vascular system consists of xylem and phloem. The phloem is that green tissue just under the bark....it carries photosynthates (food, carbs) DOWN from the leaves. The xylem is what most of us would call the wood. That part of the xylem that is functional consists of tubes that carry water from the roots UP throughout the plant. That monumental task is completely passive, accomplished by transpirational pull.

Plants can die if the food transport is stopped by severe injury, even if very shallow. Phloem tissue consists of living cells. Xylem, on the other hand, is comprised of non-living cells stacked like so many hollow drinking straws....dead cells, but performing an essential role in the life of the plant.

As a woody plant matures, the innermost circle of growth, the oldest wood, ceases to function at all. A tree can live without the heart wood for the remainder of a long life.

Just FYI, no reason. :-)

Thanks for all the responses, I've been at my house 5 years, this is the 1st rub on property. I found some wire metal gutter guards that will work on the maples the rest of the season. Now I just hope they don't go after the 3 NW Spruce I planted this fall!

For clarity/reference:

"The phloem ... carries photosynthates ... DOWN from the leaves."

Movement of sap in phleom tissue is actually MULTIDIRECTIONAL.

"That part of the xylem that is functional consists of tubes that carry water from the roots UP throughout the plant. That monumental task is completely passive, accomplished by transpirational pull."

Water, nitrogen, and mineral nutrients are transported by xylem. The "drivers" of this movement (through the xylem) are both transpirational pull and root pressure.

"Xylem, on the other hand, is comprised of non-living cells..."

Younger xylem (sapwood) is comprised of both living and non-living cells. The cells are developed as living cells (outer sapwood) and die (or become inactive) as they age, so that inner sapwood contains significant amounts of non-living cells. Older wood (heartwood) is comprised of dead cells (well, at least by most definitions). There are further intricacies to this subject, but that's the basics.

rhiz .. brandon..

i go for simplicity of the idea ... so that most of us can understand the CONCEPT ...

you guys can do the science.. all the power to you ...

here.. if the wound goes all around.. there is no way for movement of nutrients.. rather than food.. up nor down.. and that above.. is dead ... no hope .. not to say it wont bud from below ...

i dont know about gutter guards ... but if it works.. it works ...

when i first moved here.. i used 4 inch perforated drain pipe [the 4 inches gives you many years of service .. cut to 3 to 4 feet ... sliced long ways.. peeled open and tree inserted with 4 hands to avoid causing damage .. and left on the tree for 3 to 4 years ... it worked.. and now i have about 30 of them in the attic of the barn..

at the link below ... about 25% for the way down.. look for the drain pipe with yellow markings .. wherein it says:

One of the simplest forms of tree trunk protection uses 4-inch diameter corrugated plastic drain pipe. This flexible pipe is cut to length, so it reaches from the ground to just below the first branch. Then the pipe is slit vertically, creating an opening for the pipe to be slid over the tree trunk. Caution should be exercised cutting and installing the pipe, so that tender bark isn't damaged when the pipe is opened up and slid over the tree trunk, since the pipe can be difficult to force open and the plastic edges are sharp. It helps if two people do the work together. This corrugated 4-inch pipe can be purchased at most lumber yards and home centers, costing less than $5 for a 10-foot section, which is enough to protect a couple trees. The perforated type of drain pipe is best since the holes aid air movement around the tree trunk.

===>> anyway it worked for me down here in adrian MI ... where are you???

ken

BTW .. vertical heartwood.. usually does not retain the moisture itself .. so as to rot .... as long as any damaged bark is removed ... IMHO.. anything inside the green layer.. is dead wood [WARNING: concept.. perhaps not science .. lol] ... and all it can do.. is rot.. given constant long term wetness ... but being vertical.. it wont stay went enough.. long enough ... but once you encapsulate it.. with tar.. or paint.. then you will provide something which will .. eventually peel.. and leave a place.. for moisture to accumulate ... bottom line.. clean up the wound.. and let the tree take care of itself.. they are rather good at it .... its us.. who usually screw it up ... lol ..

double BTW ... if you are local.. and want the 30 in my barn.. i might give them to you ... havent had a need for them in 10 years ... of course.. the minute i give them away... a hundred ideas will pop in my head.. lol ...

Here is a link that might be useful: link