I Need Direction - Oaks
j0nd03
12 years ago
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Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
12 years agoj0nd03
12 years agoRelated Discussions
I'm panicking and I think I need some direction...
Comments (56)Sounds wonderful! I'm glad you enjoyed your dinner party. See, if your ever worried about a dinner party again, just put those chocolatinis on the menu! I should have mentioned martinis when you were worried. A friend of mine was having a dinner party and made a big batch of appletinis to go with the appetizers. They were such a hit she made a couple more batches. At 9:00 she realized that she had never started dinner, and wasn't actually sure she was capable of cooking at that point, so she made more appletinis and had her husband call for pizza. All the guests spent the night sleeping on various chairs, couches or the floor. They thought is was they best party ever....See MoreI Need Help With Installation Direction!
Comments (2)the mid and lower floors are concrete, I have NO idea which way the joists go on the top floor in the catwalk bedroom or loft. Would the joist automatically run the length in the catwalk/hallway? It seems odd that the floor go side to side in a hallway though doesn't it? How can I tell which way they go? Tight now it is all carpeted and my plans are only to do the bottom 1000 sq ft floor then later in the year do to mid floor and next yr do the upper. Do I have to remove carpet to find out which way the joist run upstairs? UGH projects suck!!!...See MoreDirections for painting oak cabinets
Comments (7)Lots of great advice on the painting forum about this. We are almost done ours. Here is what we did: Wash with TSP, rinse, and dry Sand Use Pore-o-Pac brush on wood grain filler (if you want the grain to be gone). I did 2-3 coats of this. Very time consuming, but really worth it. I did not do the inside of the doors. If you use this product, do yourself a favor and buy an empty 1 gallon paint can to dump the quart of this stuff into. It helps with the stirring, the adding of mineral spirits. Sand between coats of pore-o-pac Painted two coats of primer, BM, acrylic (orange label), sanding between each coat with 220 grit. Let dry several days between coats. You can use a chinex if you use oil(not china) brush, spray, or a roller. Now we are in the middle of the final coats, I plan on 2 or 3 final coats, of the BM oil based paint. (Red label). Sanding again between each coat, and then I am planning on sanding the final finish with the 3M sanding pads that are labeled "final finish". Can't tell you any results of that yet. A lot of people swear by the Cabinet Coat paint brand. This is a water based product and supposed to be excellent. I did not hear about it until I was further along, and couldn't change my plan. This would be an excellent choice probably if you are planning a light color for the paint, since oil will yellow. The Pore-o-Pac is available in both oil and water based formulas. I used the oil due to the fact that I was using oil based paint. I have to say, it really did the trick. But hop over to the paint forum, you will be amazed. I wish I had photos to show you, but the cabinets aren't done yet. Good luck Here is a link that might be useful: Pore-o-Pac...See MoreI need some direction with my lawn. Tilling, Fertilizing, Mulching
Comments (35)I get frost middling-October, and we're exactly in the right window for KBG. You have a week, easily, and two if you push it. I don't advise pushing it if you don't absolutely have to, but fortunately you can seed very quickly post-Round Up. >>Fertilizer- Is your opinion that I don't need any fertilizer application at the time of seeding? Edit: My reading comprehension slipped a little there. You were just referring to organic matter application. Neither is absolutely required, but I don't object to a one-time application of starter fertilizer with the seed. You may not need it, but it isn't going to do an enormous amount of damage, either. >>As for topdressing, I've got the hint from others that a topdressing isn't completely necessary but surely I need something on top of the seed on the slope, no? While not strictly necessary (it's helpful and it's good insurance against drying out, but...), slopes may require a little something to hold things in place. Compost has good mass and doesn't move easily, so that's always a good choice on a hefty slope. Peat is very light, but for shallow slopes it'll do fine. Known erosion areas benefit from having burlap over the top. You can put the burlap down right on the seed and soil, or atop a compost or peat moss top dressing. In any case, 1/4" of coverage is the absolute maximum (burlap can go atop that as you're going to remove it anyway)....See Morej0nd03
12 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
12 years agoj0nd03
12 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
12 years agoalexander3_gw
12 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5