Repeating moss rose??
Lilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca
14 years ago
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york_rose
14 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
14 years agoRelated Discussions
repeating moss rose?
Comments (14)I have Salat and I agree with Lori that René d'Anjou is the better repeater. I dont know where she got hers but since it is not supposed to repeat I got mine from Pickering. It has really nice moss and the leaves are fragrant as well-very balsam smelling plus very clean. It is a nice lush rose. I love Mme Louis Lévêque but it does ball. Deuil de Paul Fontaine is a wonderful dark red with good repeat. It is not a vigorous here as some though. I am trying a couple of new repeaters, Jean Bodin and James Vetch. Those sound worth trying. Over all I would say the once bloomers have the best moss-usually softer with more fragrance. You cannot beat common moss. patricia...See MorePotager is turning into rose garden :)
Comments (18)Lavender Lass, I've done a little research since you started asking about once blooming OGRs in your zone 4 climate. There used to be a very good Rose Nursery in Grand Forks, B. C. which is probably 4 hours north of your area. I've got one of their catalogues from 1998 and have had a look at the OGRs they sold and the temperatures they state they can take without winter kill. I've also provided a link to another Canadian nursery, Corn Hill Nursery in New Brunswick, Canada. The roses they sell are hardy to at least -30C ( -28F ). My old catalogue from "Hardy Roses for the North" list Alba roses as being the hardiest, good to zone 3. So any Albas that strike your fancy will probably work for you. Gallicas are zone 4 with the exception of Alain Blanchard and Alika, whiich are both listed as zone 3. Two repeat blooming Pimpenellafollias that are good to at leat zone 3 are Karl Forster and Stanwell Perpetual. Centifollias are listed as zone 4. Damasks as zone 4, if your temperatures don't go much below -30C you might want to try Ispahan which has a long blooming season. The repeat blooming OGR's; Portland Damasks, Bourbons, HPs, Mosses, will all get cut back hard and/or need winter protection in zone 4. If you want some hardy Austins, then I recommend the following: St. Cecelia, probably the hardiest Austin, winter hardy here in zone 4; Saint Swithun, Charles Rennie MacIntosh; Mary Rose, Redoute, Winchester Cathedral, Crocus Rose, The Mayflower. All quite hardy, healthy, and with good rebloom. Plant them deep, bud union 4 or more inches below soil level. The ones mentioned, other than St. Cecelia and probably the Mayflower, will die to the ground or snow line, but come back very well and give you lots of bloom. I personally cut mine back to 18 inches in winter and cover with straw and they grow and bloom very well for me. I've also heard good things about a moss rose called William Lobb, a rose that several forum members in Minnesota grow and say does well there. There you go, at least some cold climate OGR data to get you started. Good luck with your project, hope it goes well. PS: I cover lavender with straw, just like my roses and manage to get it to grow here. Cheers, Rideau Rose Lad Here is a link that might be useful: Cornhillnursery...See MoreBasic Rose Question--crested moss
Comments (33)Thank you! No, you don't really "sell cuttings", but there is always hope someone who is already set up with the appropriate licenses might want to introduce and sell a promising seedling. "Tiny" isn't as much of an inhibition to raising seedlings as you might presume. Fortunately, most aren't worth retaining, so while you may germinate hundreds, it's fairly easy to cull that number down to a few dozen, or less. Plus, it is exciting and FUN, especially for someone who finds genetics fascinating. Unless you spend several full time schedules at work, "retirement" isn't really necessary to be able to breed plants and raise seedlings. You can begin as easily as simply collecting the seeds from self set hips from the roses in your garden, planted in a flower pot, or go "larger" by building tables or planters similar to what I have posted on my blog, here. Planting seed and raising seedlings honestly isn't difficult, nor does it require huge investments of money, time or room. You control all of those variables, so you can practice while you are still chained to other pursuits, and decide if and when you want to make it more "involved". I was more than a little "obsessive" in generating crosses this year and will definitely have more seeds to plant than I can handle. I think the spread sheet showed somewhere around 415 different crosses I've already collected and bagged seed from...so far, and there are ONLY around a hundred more tagged crosses out back ripening, so that number could swell very easily. If you would like to play, practice, it would be easy, and my pleasure, to supply you with some seeds to experiment with. If you're interested, you can either private message me here, or use my screen name here to send an email through the long-hated (for good reason) America on Line. Kim Rupert is on Help Me Find, so there are better photos of the flowers than I can take while my plant remains in its pot. "I" hate to be potted! In any sense of the terms. Mr. Moore used to sell the seedlings which weren't exactly what he'd imagined in his mind's eye for $2 at the nursery. Paul Barden bought this one because the breeding intrigued him. The plant is one which doesn't show its mettle confined in a pot. Once Paul grew it out and saw what it could do, he contacted Mr. Moore and offered him the rose because he felt it should be introduced. They initially offered it to Sean McCann, but Sean wanted an exhibition HT to bear his name. Paul called me one night with the offer to name it for me because of my fascination with Mr. Moore's stripes and mosses. The rest is history!...See MoreI need advice on pruning Salet (moss rose)
Comments (11)vesfl -- my once-blooming oldies are limited, in that I don't have any Albas or Centifolias, and aside from a few young Damasks in pots, the two I grow are 'Botzaris' (which is rather like a very prickly stout Gallica in habit, which also fits 'Leda' and a handful of others) and 'Quatre Saisons Blanc Mousseaux'. I have a few Gallicas planted where they can sucker if they want. Then there's "Nouveau Monde -- in commerce as" and a couple other oddballs. I've lived with them for a few years now, and let them teach me. So take this with a grain of salt. When I say I prune harder after the bloom, it's to sort of "refresh and contain" the roses. If I just dead-head the once-bloomers, they'll put out their new growth from where I cut off the faded blooms, and that new growth will continue growing, uninterrupted by a second flush, for another four or five months. I've been hypothesizing that the number of actively-growing buds is dictated by the extent of the root mass, as if the roots say "ok, we can support this many growth buds" to the top growth. That number can be contained within a few very long canes each with many active buds, or a lot of shorter canes each with fewer active buds. If you cut long canes back hard, lower growth buds which were sort of suppressed into dormancy by those higher up will sprout, making for bushier canes. If that's not enough, more new canes will emerge from the roots, and/or suckers will form. It's as if the roots say "hey, we said we could handle this many, but we're not getting as much food coming down here....do we need to send up more growth from below?" and they do. I like the Gallicas and 'Bozaris' to be broad, bushy, and low -- maxing at about four feet tall. So after they bloom, I cut the bloomed canes down by half (even if already shortened by a third before they leafed out), remove entirely any with few or no blooms, and if two canes are too close together, I cut out entirely the one that seems less vigorous, or older. From there, they will put forth next year's blooming canes. Because my growing season is longer than yours, I anticipate how big they'll be by Winter and keep that in mind when I'm deciding how much to remove. For you, reducing their length may not be necessary -- they may have only two months of active growth after blooming before going dormant in your area. I also find that doing this prompts suckers to sprout -- if they're in the way, I remove them as I find them. Otherwise, I leave them. The Gallicas were planted where I wanted them to sucker, but 'Botzaris' suckers get in the way, so I dig them out. Then there's "Nouveau Monde -- in commerce as" which I grow as a big climber against a raised deck railing, and a little into a tree. This rose was described by Vintage Gardens as belonging to "growth habit #3", which meant growing into a big, suckering haystack. Its main bulk fans out about fifteen feet wide and nine feet tall. All of its top-growth emerges from one cane emerging from the soil line. It has never sent up a sucker, and the only other cane it had was its original baby cane, long since pruned away. This remaining cane is over an inch in diameter now at the base. It grew up, then I turned it 45 degrees to the left, which prompted laterals, and those laterals were further turned, etc. This meant a LOT of actively-growing buds -- and probably what is suppressing the emergence of any new canes or suckers. So, in this case, I actually want to keep this situation going, because I simply can't fit any more of this rose in its spot -- new canes or suckers would not work. Before it leafs out, I just remove the dead or diseased parts, arrange the stems to where I want them to go, favor the stronger of two that are too close together, cut anything too thin to support a bloom, then snip what's left back just a bit to make it all fit. After the bloom, I cut it back harder, but only the parts extending beyond the top and sides of the railing. All the stuff below I pretty much leave. October 2013 -- six months after coming as a band. Note the cane going up against the railing -- this was trained to the left as it continued growing. Note the new shoots that seem to be coming from the roots -- they're not. They are laterals on that cane against the railing. Note the thin, twiggy bits down front -- those are the baby canes, which I later snipped away. Here it is in May 2014 -- baby canes still there, but all new growth you see along the railing began as laterals on that first new cane. There's also a clematis growing into it. May 2015 -- see how laterals upon laterals are growing? I got that starting because when the laterals went up and over the railing too high, I started tucking them back down to between 45 degrees and horizontal, in the opposite direction of the cane which sprouted the lateral, prompting those laterals to make laterals, and repeat. Lots of top mass suppressed more new canes and suckering. The baby canes are still there, but I cut them off after the bloom. April 2016 -- ok, now it's really getting huge, and still all of this is laterals upon laterals upon laterals.....from one main cane. If you look in the second pic, you can see that I've already cut the longest canes, which were long enough that they were arching toward the deck floor from their weight. Snipping them back made them stand upright. I then shortened those laterals, and trained them horizontally (or nearly so) against the top of the deck railing (after these pics were taken) And late May 2016 -- you can see the lateral-upon-lateral effect going on. Elsewhere, 'Duchesse d'Angouleme' (the one aka 'Wax Rose') is being trained the same way, but it's growing much more slowly than did NM-ica. Same idea, though -- one main cane, trained sideways, causing laterals to sprout, those laterals also trained sideways, those also sprouted their own laterals, etc. All that top growth is suppressing new canes and suckers below, so no worries about it taking over. So, long story short, I prune them after learning what they want to do, what they can do, and bending that to work for what I want them to do. :-) ~Christopher...See Moremelva
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