Basic Rose Question--crested moss
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new to OGRs, need basics
Comments (39)> > > I think disease resistance - for any class - is best considered on a rose by rose basis. *** WOW is that ever true! Over 20 years, we've grown almost every sort of rose, and we know that: MOST HTs don't really thrive here. MOST Teas, Noisettes, Chinas, and Polyanthas DO thrive here. MOST Austin roses don't really thrive here. (In fact most of them seem not to respond well to a cool coastal climate.) MOST Northern European once-bloomers need chill hours we do not have, and do not thrive here long-term. MOST Hybrid Perpetuals and Bourbons are "iffy" for us. But a few HTs are fine here, and a few Teas, Chinas, Noisettes, and Polyanthas are not. A handful of HPs are reasonably good here. A handful of Austins are reasonably good here. Look first at classes of roses, seeking groups that, on the whole, thrive in your climate. Then look within those classes to choose the best of them for your microclimate. Remember that even people in a similar plant-hardiness zone may have very different conditions from yours. Local advice is ALWAYS most accurate. If I'd had LOCAL advice when I began, I might have spent a lot less money on the wrong roses for my garden. Jeri Jennings...See MoreWhat are the basics for getting started in OGR
Comments (19)zaphod42: first thing about what is a rambler. Generally there are climbing roses and climbing roses with more flexible canes. Later often get classified as ramblers, but also there is extra quality that they can be trained up the trees and entangle themselves with the tree branches, without a need of tying their every cane. Smaller climbers can work for the fence too, but you have to investigate every option if it is flexible enough for that purpose (many grow climbers fanned against the fence). Some ramblers indeed can be trained horizontally, for example wichuranas (Francois Juranville and Leontine Gervais from your list) can work like that. Basically they get a long cane, which you bend more or less horizontally and tie along the fence. From that cane they will get lateral shots with flowers, which are not that lengthy, maybe 1 ft or less. That does not work with all ramblers though. Large ramblers are really massive, they get 12ft long canes in a season and if you bend them horizontally, they will get numerous 6-12 ft lateral shots from that cane, so you will end up with massive mound of a rose, engulfing whole fence and whatever passes by. I believe Bobby James and Long John could get those massive shots (maybe someone who are more familiar with them may confirm it). In any case, any rose that is listed on HMF as reaching over 6 meters (20 ft) should be approached with caution. As for the shrubs, there are some plants that fall between climber and a bush. For example some albas or musks can give similar effect as training a climber on a fence. Quite some old garden roses grow as high as 5+ ft. Also if you have more narrow passes, it is wise to either look for clematis for that spot (goes well with roses) or look for thornless roses all together (like Zephirine Drouhin)....See MoreNew here! Some basic questions!
Comments (32)Yes, you need to ID those oaks ASAP. Summer irrigation will kill a native oak really fast! It's why when we get those terrific windstorms, property and people get hurt by falling oaks: the trees were dying already so the root system was compromised, unable to keep the tree upright under pressure. We are in a drought year, and fall/winter is a much better time to plant anyway. In the San Francisco Bay Area it will be early summer season when May 1st arrives. My freesias are already done, the roses are finishing their first blooming, the late blooming bearded iris are out and will be done in 2 weeks, the rhodies are finished and the hydrangeas are leafed out with little bud heads already. I prefer soaker hoses to drip. Quick-connect couplers allow me to water when needed. Soil prep is everything; the soil in CA usually is very poor. Drainage is critical; you should always know exactly how fast your site drains in different seasons and group plants according to their watering requirements. Gardening in CA isn't like gardening anywhere else. Some plants love our warm dry summers but croak under our chilly wet winters. Plants that do well often grow measurably larger than standard measurements on a sales tag. Pay attention to developing good bones with evergreen shrubs and foliage. We got rid of our grass and I have 15 separate garden beds totaling over 2000 sq. ft. of cottage-style beds, but the first and foremost requirement is that it look as good in January as it does in July - which takes planning and experimentation. Good luck!...See MoreBasic Landscaping Help
Comments (304)This is structure you need for your house. It will take 5 years for growth to over grow this area with proper trimming each year. You need more height and variations for this to work. You don’t need a bunch of low plants. You need a couple taller, a couple mid height and a couple lower. Don’t spread a bunch of low plants out. You are better off having 4 clusters to start. One on each end of house (end area) and one beside each side of porch leaving breathing room from your foundation....See More
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8 years ago...likewise, I only know of 'Alfred de Dalmas' but also 'Salet' I think repeats... but I wonder if they would be suitable for your climate..?
'Alfred de Dalmas' at Mannington...
ozmelodye
8 years ago
jerijen
8 years agoWe grew 'Crested Moss' decades ago. For the first year, it grew well and bloomed well -- in fact, we won Dowager Queen with it, at a National Convention.
The next year, it was less happy. By year three, it was "growing backwards" and didn't bloom. Before it could roll over and die, we gave it to friends who lived in Tehachapi, and thus had a cold winter.
We do grow "Dawn Crest" -- from Ralph Moore's crested line. It is a vigorous thorny climber that produces loads of fragrant semi-double blooms, which open from crested buds. It wasn't crested enough for Mr. Moore, but I find that it has more and more cresting as the plant matures. (It's also disease-free here, and repeats well.)
And Kim Rupert has been breeding some fascinating crested things.
mustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9 thanked jerijenjerijen
8 years agomustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoroseseek
8 years agoThere are repeat flowering old mosses as well as more modern mosses. There are also two rather nice modern crested hybrids that are actually nicer than Mr. Moore's efforts. I grow C04 and Morcrest, two of Mr. Moore's repeat flowering crested breeders. Both are on HMF. John Jelinek, a gentleman I know through the Rose Hybridizers Association, has raised two repeat flowering crested hybrids which have much better plants under them than Mr. Moore's. One is 4N07, a very fragrant, very heavily crested HT/shrub which flowers virtually year round in Encino and Santa Maria. It is in flower here now. The second is 5D13, a seedling of 4N07 with Shockwave. It isn't scented, and it's a smaller growing rose with large apricot/amber, semi double, nicely crested flowers. It, too, is in flower here now. Both have been free from fungal issues in both places I have grown them. John has given his permission for both roses to be used for the rose preservation efforts and both have been offered to the Sacramento Cemetery to propagate for their next sale..if they decide they want them. There are a few photos of them on HMF. These are photos taken in my yard within the past two weeks.
4N07
5D13
mustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agojerijen
8 years agocarriehelene
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agoYes ma'am, they're the same rose. The foliage is quite good and its shape is dense and dwarf, two things crested seedlings traditionally lack. If they have "vigor", they tend to be rangy like Crested Moss. If they lack it, they are weak. This one grows and stays dense with heavy, durable foliage and flowers in full clusters. I budded it to a patio standard to make breeding on it easier. It looks pretty good that way.
jacqueline9CA
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agojerijen
8 years agomustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
8 years agomustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agoIf you have any interest, it isn't difficult to raise your own new mosses, even crested ones. This is a seedling between Lynnie and Kim Rupert. One seedling is virtually without prickles with dark pink stripes and splashes on white. This one is varying shades of red and dark pink on a pink ground. Many of the canes are virtually without prickles, though a new basal is heavily "mossed". The buds are always heavily mossed. It flowers constantly, as you would expect from its parents.
jerijen
8 years agojerijen
8 years agoozmelodye
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agojerijen
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agojerijen
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agomustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
8 years agoroseseek
8 years agoThank you! No, you don't really "sell cuttings", but there is always hope someone who is already set up with the appropriate licenses might want to introduce and sell a promising seedling. "Tiny" isn't as much of an inhibition to raising seedlings as you might presume. Fortunately, most aren't worth retaining, so while you may germinate hundreds, it's fairly easy to cull that number down to a few dozen, or less. Plus, it is exciting and FUN, especially for someone who finds genetics fascinating. Unless you spend several full time schedules at work, "retirement" isn't really necessary to be able to breed plants and raise seedlings. You can begin as easily as simply collecting the seeds from self set hips from the roses in your garden, planted in a flower pot, or go "larger" by building tables or planters similar to what I have posted on my blog, here. Planting seed and raising seedlings honestly isn't difficult, nor does it require huge investments of money, time or room. You control all of those variables, so you can practice while you are still chained to other pursuits, and decide if and when you want to make it more "involved". I was more than a little "obsessive" in generating crosses this year and will definitely have more seeds to plant than I can handle. I think the spread sheet showed somewhere around 415 different crosses I've already collected and bagged seed from...so far, and there are ONLY around a hundred more tagged crosses out back ripening, so that number could swell very easily. If you would like to play, practice, it would be easy, and my pleasure, to supply you with some seeds to experiment with. If you're interested, you can either private message me here, or use my screen name here to send an email through the long-hated (for good reason) America on Line.
Kim Rupert is on Help Me Find, so there are better photos of the flowers than I can take while my plant remains in its pot. "I" hate to be potted! In any sense of the terms. Mr. Moore used to sell the seedlings which weren't exactly what he'd imagined in his mind's eye for $2 at the nursery. Paul Barden bought this one because the breeding intrigued him. The plant is one which doesn't show its mettle confined in a pot. Once Paul grew it out and saw what it could do, he contacted Mr. Moore and offered him the rose because he felt it should be introduced. They initially offered it to Sean McCann, but Sean wanted an exhibition HT to bear his name. Paul called me one night with the offer to name it for me because of my fascination with Mr. Moore's stripes and mosses. The rest is history!
mustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
8 years ago
roseseek