Angel Face....too much Blackspot?
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16 years ago
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jerijen
16 years agolesdvs9
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Does the 'old' Peace blackspot as bad
Comments (12)klimkm &jalfred, You both wrote something pertinent that goes together, so I'll address to both; VID roses are the best way to go in my opinion, but I'd rather get cuttings from UCD FPS than buy them from Vintage. That said, my Virgo was from UCD, and will be re-ordered next spring. I should have ordered them for this year, but forgot. I have about 7 or 8 (maybe more?) different varieties in my rooting house right now from UCD. They should start rooting next week. Tomorrow will mark 14 days since I stuck them. And I agree with you on the BS resistance on VID plants. They just seem healthier though I really doubt whether they are....See Moreblackspot truly fatal
Comments (38)Thank you, trospero, for that very interesting info., I appreciate your knowledge. It's only my hunch, so I need your experience on this, trospero, regarding my own-root roses: 1) Meilland in France, a more alkaline soil with hotter summer, bred roses vigorous as own-root in alkaline soil. David Austin, in more acidic soil and cooler climate, bred roses more vigorous as own-roots in such environment. Nahema with Heritage as the parent is wimpy here, only 5 blooms per year. I dug up Nahema and the root is very small. In contrast, Meilland Liv Tyler produces tons of blooms and the bush is 3 times larger in my hot summer near 100 degrees. 2) Kim Rupert bred "Annie L. McDowell" by choosing the best seedling of Renae x Renae in his alkaline soil and water. I bought Annie as a tiny band, now its rootball is huge, at least 2 gallons when I transferred from pot to soil yesterday. Compare that to Nahema with Austin Heritage as pollen parent, bought as gallon-size, but its root shrank here. My conclusion: buy own-roots where it's bred in a climate and soil similar to one's own....See MoreUpdate on using cornmeal to prevent blackspot
Comments (108)Ye gads! I wonder why some of this stuff stays around. There is a difference between corn gluten (not gluton) meal and cornmeal; the corn gluten meal is the (somewhat effective) proteins plus other materials milled off whole cornmeal, and which actually contains no gluten. It does work as a pre-emergent herbicide in some situations. Do your research to find how, and rather than doing it the lazy way on most organic gardening forums, read abstracts from university research papers and university horticulture forums (I suggest the WSU Extension forum from Puyallup, WA). You can also find whole grain cornmeal at some better grocery stores. It has the corn gluten intact, if you want it. Corn meal is good food for snails, some rodents and insects. Cornmeal and corn gluten meal are both good substrates for growing some kinds of fungi for research purposes. Just get some moist, perhaps on a pot of wet soil, leave in the shade, keep it moist and/or covered, and see what grows. As a pre-emergent herbicide, cornmeal is not so effective, and under just the right conditions (look up elsewhere how to do it right) corn gluten meal is a good pre-emergent herbicide, even if a bit $$. There is not much guarantee that your corn gluten meal would be OMRI certifiable, for most of it is made from GMO field corn. After all, since most of it goes into animal feed, and the feed producers care mostly about the bottom line, why ask for non-GMO corn sources? net-net: do better research in finding the papers and abstracts, and read critically. Then you won't be panicking about where to find cornmeal or corn gluten meal for your garden. As for tomato spot disease, just try to find supporting studies on cornmeal for preventing that...you'll likely only find anecdotal reports from some home gardeners who have been successful one season, and attribute that success to the cornmeal, but have no control against which to compare....See MoreSulfur powder for blackspot
Comments (15)re: "Regarding the use of ortho-phenylphenol to control blackspot on roses. I am not familiar with such a use. I did not even find that it is registered for such use. Do you know of such a registration? " Well, I brought it up because it's one of the least toxic (and most widely used) fungicides that are already approved for use on food crops for human consumption. Probably wishful thinking on my part as far as blackspot prevention. It's allowed on lots of food crops, notably citrus. If you've noticed, oranges and grapefruit that come in mesh bags or boxes actually list which pesticides were applied, more often than not. (usually thiabendazole, imazilil, and o-phenylphenol under its various names.) It's applied post-harvest to delay/retard/postpone mold growth. Of the roughly 500 'approved pesticides' it has one of the highest tolerances (i.e. it's allowed at higher levels than most others, often >20 ppm). Most of it stays on the citrus peel exterior, so there's not much in orange juice etc. It's a phenolic compound with no chlorines or other halogens, not an organophosphate, not a triazine etc. And being a phenol, it's an organic chemical compound, at least in strict Chemistry terminology. (Please note, I did not state it was 100% safe and completely harmless.) It was the active ingredient in Lysol (and Amphyl) for many years, and it didn't generate a lot of adverse events or reports. Over the years they switch from phenols to Quats and other disinfectant antiseptics. If it worked on blackspot, we'd have heard about it by now (from UC extension and the thousands of other groups). Back to the subject of chlorthalonil - thanks for pointing out the "Apply only during late evening" admonition. I hadn't heard of it but will now dutifully adhere....See Moremichaelg
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