No need to panic; blackspot is ugly and certainly lowers flower production, but it's seldom fatal to the plant.
What happened? Nothing unusual, if conditions are right, blackspot always comes, eventually. What can you do? Maybe three reasonable choices:

1) Learn to live with it. This would be a lot easier if you don't garden in an area where blackspot thrives or if you choose less-susceptible roses.

2) Spray on a weekly schedule with an organic-certified fungicide. None of these will give control as good as a non-certified good synthetic fungicide and all may burn the foliage in hot weather. The Garden Sense product you have is clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil. This is not the same stuff as the centuries-old original neem extract. It's basically a plant oil and costs more and is less effective than plain old mineral oil fungicides. I suggest Sunspray Horticultural oil if you want to control blackspot with an organic-certified spray.

3) Spray with a good synthetic fungicide on a weekly or bi-weekly schedule from leaf-out to leaf-off. Fungicides containing either propiconazole (Banner Maxx and Infuse are two brands) or tebuconazole (Bayer products) are among the best.

What happened is by the time you notice the blackspot, it's ready to break out. That's why preventive spraying is key if you don't want to put up with BS.

When it's very hot and dry, BS doesn't survive, but now that the weather is turning cooler and a bit more damp in the morning, BS will thrive. I have some on my roses, and will have to spray this weekend.

'Blackspot' that shows up overnight after spraying isn't usually blackspot, but spray damage. Oils have definite temperature limits above which they shouldn't be used. I have no idea what your weather has been like lately to know if this could be that issue.

BTW, around here, the usual cause of spray damage is spraying too early in the spring when nighttime temperatures are still below freezing. It's way too early in the season for real blackspot, so it's fairly easy to diagnose.

Thank you guys for calming me down...I will go look for a better spray to use!

Another question...I had read that you should remove the blackspot leaves and get them out of the beds..should I do this?

First you need to be sure that the problem is Black Spot, aka Diplocarphon rosae.
Get your county extension agent to id the disease for you. Then act.
Because some other diseases make dark spots on rose leaves, knowing what you are dealing with is a good place to start.
Some of the other disease are less dire; one, at least, is a lot more serious.

if the roses on the right side got black spot, i would guess that you probably had watered them or they got some moisture from somewhere.

Forget the County Agent, go to the ars.org and go to the find cr's button. Click on your state and see who lives close to you, then contact that person and they will help you. Maybe you have a Rose Society in the area,then contact them. Someone will come out and look at your plants, and make a correct id on your problems.

Texas has a really great support system of county agents and within the TAMU system, there are folks working on rose diseases.
There's a whole lot of Texas that doesn't have local rose societies.

Honestly, by this time of year in my neck of the woods I don't really care too much about BS anymore in my garden. The roses are getting ready for their final flush and the cold will come soon to make the leaves drop anyway. Then fall clean-up takes care of the problem. But in your area of TX, maybe you don't get cold enough to lose your foliage. If I were you, I'd just get rid of the affected leaves and spray the rest of the plant.

Don't despair. This is the time blackspot reappears after the heat of summer. Mike suggested the best sprays that work here - tebuconazole as in Bayer Disease Control or propiconizole as in Banner Maxx. You can read some good information about fungicides on the Rosemania.com site.

I am a Consulting Rosarian, but don't live in Zone 7, so I guess you are not in the Dallas area.

This is late September in Zone 7. I would say, "Don't worry, be happy".

There isn't much more of the season to worry about black spot. Let it go, spend the time you would have spent doing all that spraying into something a lot more relaxing and enjoyable, for example, the last rounds of golf for the season. The black spot won't hurt your roses much. By next spring those roses will be back. If you do feel a need to do something, I would suggest paying meticulous attention to keeping the garden clean. Make sure that you remove all the leaves and organic detritus from your garden, to reduce the number of spores that might stick around to cause next year's problem. If you don't like the look of the black spotted leaves, strip them off.

I just want to add my agreement to what Mike Rivers and Snowheather said about the Bayer-tebuconozole and the Banner Max. Both are excellent. Banner Max is much more expensive up front, though it will last much much longer. Either one is generally used on a bi-weekly basis and is best used preventively (the Bayer has a little bit of curative effect). With either of these products, used throughout the growing season you should see very little disease problem. They're well worth the effort. But for the Bayer, you can find "Bayer All-in-One" at any Wal-mart and most Home garden centers. But it tells you to drench the soil, rather than spraying. Easier, yes, but far more wasteful and expensive. You'll run out before you realize it. Plus, that formulation throws in chemical fertilizer and insecticide, which is overkill. You don't need the fertilizer if you're already fertilizing and adding organics to your soil, which we all should be doing anyway. And the insecticide is baaaaaddd on your good bug population and the environment in general. Why pour insect poison into the soil unless you actually see a specific insect problem? Better to spot treat bug problems, instead of using sustained heavy artillary. My 1000% vote goes instead to Bayer brand "Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs." It's that same tebuconozole-based fungicide but without the excess fertilizer/bug killer. I've only ever seen this formulation at Lowe's stores, but it IS available at most Lowe's, so ask a store employee if you can't find it on your own.

Oh, and I didn't see this spelled out plainly, so...Blackspot spores can spread from anywhere anytime that there is sustained dampness or wetness for at least 6 hours. Once the spores land on the plant surface, they take a few days to germinate. That's why you saw the apparent spread of the disease AFTER you sprayed. It's also why people often experience a bout of blackspot shortly after they bring home a seemingly clean new rose plant. Chances are the rose brought the spores with it.

As far as organic methods, fertilizer, yes! bug control, sure!...mostly. but at least where blackspot is concerned, I don't buy into the organic paradigm, not around here, anyway, in Blackspot Hell. Even old garden roses and "Knockout" that are supposed to be highly resistent to blackspot will get some around here. Not enough to seriously threaten their health, but enough to still sap some of their energy that would otherwise go to leaf and bloom production. I tried using Greenlight brand Neem oil several years back and ended up chemical burning my roses. Seems they couldn't handle hot sun with that oil. No thanks. Organic does not automatically mean "safer."
Hopefully this will be encouraging to you; Blackspot is most likely to appear in the fall with dampness and moderate temps. It's partly because the foliage is getting old and losing vitality as the growing season winds down. So it succombs more easily to infection. No big deal. It IS nearing the season when the leaves should drop anyway. So start a sensible regular preventive spray program, but also don't worry too much about long-term damage taking over. It's easily reversible.

Mike

Thank you all so much for the advice. It just scared the bejebbers out of me when I saw all the spots! But all the roses have new growth up top and are still blooming, so I'll try to chill and enjoy! And I certainly will look for those sprays that Mike suggested.
Again, thank you all!

Sharon

I used to be one of those in September saying 'let it go'. I don't do that anymore. 2 years ago, I let the BS go a the end of the season. I sprayed for the last time in September. What happened is that fall/winter, we didn't get a hard freeze until nearly Christmas. So the roses did not go dormant and the BS went wild. It was so bad that many of my roses leafed out in spring with blackspot. Then we had that disastrous Easter Freeze.

So last fall I kept up spraying at least every few weeks (with the Bayer disease control) even through winter. If you're in a colder zone, that may not be necessary. But even in zone 7, sometimes it doesn't get cold enough for long enough to keep the blackspot in check.