You're welcome Nadia! Once you have the others collected, and you find you have more room, there is ONE more... Crestline Mulberry is a rose I "discovered" nearly thirty years ago. I hadn't grown it in many years, but re collected a sucker of it from a friend's garden in Torrance, CA last week. She, through her rose society, has spread it all around the Palos Verdes area because it grows so well there. It could also fill the bill for the type of Old Rose you're looking for. Arena Roses offered it for sale in their first printed catalog and it should still grow in the old rose bed at The Huntington Library, so if you're out there when things are blooming, you can see it. The last nursery I know of offering it was Muriel Humenick's Rose Acres, up in El Dorado, CA, but that was several years ago. Muriel was the source of many of my early old, rare and wonderfully obscure roses and is a lovely lady with a wonderful garden. Kim http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=17.3022 Here is a link that might be useful: Crestline Mulberry

Hi hartwood, Your list of found roses that you grow is impressive, and I love your photo of "Bryan Freidels Pink Tea" is it available in commmerce? I grow seveal found roses, my favorites are "Angels Camp Tea" "Rockhill Peach Tea" and "Secret Garden Musk Climber" "Angels Camp Tea" was found in the gold rush country of California and it is a breathtakingly subtle rose. A freind who saw it in bloom this week said just one word regarding its blooms; "Exquisite". It's one of those roses that appears to be lit from within. To me it appears alabastor overlaid with pale cameo pink, touched with peach in the center, with a lick of amber at the base of its petals. In the full hot sun of August it produces pure white blooms. "Hauselt Plot Tea" Pretty and pink, and blooms every month in my garden from March through November. I bought this at a Sacramento Cemetary sale. Little scent to my nose. "Rockhill Peach Tea" I like the color of this Tea very much. It is a pleasant hue of peach, and the plant is quite healthy. "Catos Cluster" Noisette. I love its' soft grey green leaves, pretty pink cupped roses that have a slight lilac tint in cool weather. Not much scent to my nose but I like "C.C." better than the more popular "Blush Noisette" "Georgetown Tea" re-blooms as soon as I turn my back on it. It is quite suseptible to p.m.. in my garden near the North Calif. coast, but it produces very lovely flowers. "Secret Garden Climbing Musk" One of the best of all roses, in my opinion and I thank God that Joyce D. saved it from extinction. Found roses I wish I had room for; "Westside Road Cream Tea" found by Phillip Robinson, not far from his home in Northern Califorina. Its' cream colored roses are produced against a bushy background of light green leaves. One of the smaller roses of the Tea class, when mature it makes a very pretty bush of about 4 feet tall. "Secret Garden Noisette" One of the most fragrant of all Noisette roses. I held one bloom between my fingertips, to smell it, and its' strong scent lasted for well over 2 hours on my hand. The color of bloom can be a bit stark white in full hot sun, but its' bright pink petal edges do not fade. Luxrosa

Thanks, Jay. I appreciate it that you found time during your planting busy season to come here and look at this specific thread. Y'all, I'm the one who emailed Jay an urgent "SOS" for help because I wanted to see if he could find something on this plant that the rest of us were missing. I felt like if we were wrong about TSWV, Jay would be the one to correct us and set us on the right path.....or (grinning) send us on a wild goose chase seeking another answer. I'd like to emphasize again to everyone that diagnosis of tomato disease is very tricky because many diseases share common symptoms. One of the main symptons they share is foliar leaf spots in shade of black, blackish-purple, brownish-purple, brown, tan and yellow. Often, it is the shape or size of the spots that help us narrow down the problem from many possibilities to a couple of possibilities or even to one definitive answer. Often, too, the timing of the disease helps with a diagnosis because there are some bacterial issues that are much more common in spring's cooler temperatures and others that are much more common in June or July's heat. When you see something like Chandra is seeing on his plants, sometimes you have to be patient and let the more experienced growers consult their memories, their disease books, various disease diagnostic websites, one another and maybe even their own notes from previous years to remind themselves of what they "usually" see at this time of year. Even then, none of us can guarantee we are right when we attempt to diagnose from a photo---all we're doing is offering opinions on what we think we're seeing in the photo. Just a reminder to all: tomato diseases often are spread from plant to plant or from the soil or mulch to the plant by water spashing disease microorganisms up onto plant foliage. Keeping water off your plants as much as possible greatly reduces diseases linked to fungi and bacteria that spread in this manner. Mulching heavily puts a barrier between soil-borne microorganisms and your plants. Watering only with soaker hoses or drip irrigation help keep moisture off your foliage. Both will help combat foliar disease. However, you generally cannot avoid having something show up on your plants because that is the nature of tomato plants---their foliage gets every disease that comes along. Remember too that it often is our own hands that spread disease from plant to plant. If you have disease symptoms on any plant, wash your hands after you touch that plant and before you touch another plant in the same family. In the case of tomato plants, related plants are potatoes, peppers and eggplant, all of which 'share' some of the same diseases at times. You don't want for your hands or tools to spead disease around your garden. When you have a viral disease, often insects help spread them so once you have a diagnosis you have to focus on pest control to keep the pests from spreading the disease. The method you use would depend on the pest you're fighting. Both Jay and I have used a garlic-based insect repellent with some success in some instances. The one I have is, I think, the same one Jay has used in the past and it is called "Garlic Barrier". I find it at my local feed store/farm supply store (Tractor Supply Company). While using a garlic barrier spray will not prevent all insects, it often will deter them from hanging around. Many of them don't like it and will move on some place 'garlic-free' if you are using it regularly. I've linked Garlic Barrier below so you can see what the bottle looks like. It is one of the few organic products I can find in local stores here and do not have to order online, so I think it likely you can find it in at least some areas stores as well. Here is a link that might be useful: Garlic Barrier Bottle Looks Like This

Hydrogen peroxide and aspirin are known (from reviewed scientific literature) separate immune system boosters against some plant viruses. I am not aware of any literature concerning mixing them. Concerning concentration, the person in the thread I linked to stated: " I had been giving each affected plant the equivalent of 1 regular 325 mg aspirin in 1 gl water monthly except for the worst cases where I doubled the aspirin." From memory I think there was at least one other thread that discussed the limited solubility of aspirin in water. Possibility the actual effective concentration used is simply a saturated solution. http://www.gardenweb.com/gardenweb/query/aspirin/topic=roses ASM is Actigard and is described in the following link: http://www.opvg.org/Uploads/UserFiles/file/Trueman~Actigard.pdf