Here is some info from North Carolina State University on the subject that I think is particularly good. (Link below for full article.) "Aminopyralid, clopyralid, fluroxypry, picloram, and triclopyr are in a class of herbicides known as pyridine carboxylic acids. They are registered for application to pasture, grain crops, lawns, certain vegetables and fruits, and roadsides. They are used to control a wide variety of broadleaf weeds. If these herbicides are used on a pasture or hayfield, they apparently donâÂÂt harm the animals grazing on the pasture or eating the hay. But some of these herbicides can be persistent and may remain active in the hay, straw, grass clippings, and manure, even after they are composted. Some of these herbicides have a half life of 300 days or more and aminopyralid has been reported to remain active in compost for several years. A problem sometimes arises when these materials, particularly manure and compost, are applied to fields and gardens to raise certain vegetables and flowers. The herbicides of greatest concern are picloram, clopyralid, and aminopyralid. The garden plants that are most sensitive to this class of herbicides are tomatoes, potatoes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, peas, beans, dahlias, and some roses." "Some roses." Not sure what that means, it certainly would be good to know. Most of the product labeling for these types of herbicides says to wait 18 month before you plant sensitive crops where it has been used. I think porkpal is right that aminopyrolid is the longer acting one. For the others 18 months is not a long time for manure waste to sit around composting--and waiting for the chemical to go inactive. If I had access to lots of high quality compost that I though might be tainted I would seriously consider a small test garden with sensitive plants to experiment with the compost in. I think it could be well worth the effort. For those of us in the U.S. 2-4,D is still the predominate herbicide used for livestock hay production and it doesn't pose this problem. There are issues with this though and there is a small risk when using manures you don't know the background on. Fortunatly more people--farmers, livestock operators etc. are becoming aware of the issue. Here is a link that might be useful: Manure/herbicide Info

That's interesting. I didn't realize figs would continue root growth while dormant. I know other plants do (why fall planting is such a good idea), but I kind of thought of figs as a hot weather kind of plant that shuts down. Never considered it. That changes things. My big concern with overwintering just potted bareroot trees has more to do with moisture in the pots than cold temps. Heavily rooted plants seem to regulate water better - even while dormant. The channels through the soil that the roots make maybe? What I have here is kind of an "overpotting" situation. I have enough roots for the size pot, but they are all in one spot, basically, surrounded by a mass of water retentive soiless mix. Not a healthy situation - making me nervous - the pots are sodden. I've actually started wicking some of the moisture out with clay pots and paper towels. I've overwintered very successfully in the garage - even when temps dropped to 10*F in there. The only time I had a number of plants die was early on, when they seemed dry in late winter/early spring, and I gave them a drink. A number died. I know it was the water because I also "helped out" some hosta I had in the garage with a drink and lost them also, and they are dead hardy. Never did that again. The problem is finding a place cool enough to keep them below 40* F. Anyone have any experience overwintering at higher temps (40* +)? If I go this route, I'd probably want to take you up on the Wilt Pruf. Thanks for the offer. Another benefit of a deep horse manure mulch might also be in preserving roots. Many roots are right at soil level (probably why it got the reputation for being shallow rooted) and low temps and fluctuations (freeze-thaw) might do damage. So not only would you have new root growth, but probably also root preservation. This manure mulch sounds better and better. I think there is a little misunderstanding about horse manure. When I say it's hot I mean that it heats up when composted, not that it "burns" roots. Old time market gardeners in Canada used to use it to produce melons. They dug a pit, covered it with a cold frame and put in very fresh horse manure and a layer of soil. Planted melons in the soil very early and got a big start on the season using the heat from the manure. I'm not sure where it ranks in "burn" potential - I'll believe Christy's assertion that it's less "burny" than cow - sounds like she's talking from experience (How great to have your own manure sources). It would be helpful to know just how old the manure your friend gets actually is. Probably through the hottest part of the process? I have a friend with large manure making machines (Clydesdales)and could get some, but would want to make sure I'm reproducing the conditions your friend has.

I think it would be smart to take a branch cutting and root it in new clean soil. this will give new roots and I believe a much better chance to live over the winter. if done properly it should be done with no new bugs being brought into the house. the plant can then be grown all winter and put outside in the spring as a very big transplant. the problem with keeping old plants is that the roots get old and lose their health. then the plant goes down hill. the old plant usually bring in all kinds of bugs that go wild indoors etc. all this can be avoided with some care.

I've decided to transform the leaf mould bin into a compost bin sooner rather than later. Instead of emptying out all of the leaves, I've started incorporating grass clippings and kitchen/garden scraps into the bin, making sure it gets a good green/brown ratio. Over time, by turning the existing brown materials in with the new green materials, it should make good compost. The negative about this is that I won't be able to use this stuff for about two years, when I could have actually collected leaf mould in one year. The positive is that compost is more nutrient rich but can also be used the same way, as a top dressing or mulch, for water retention and weed suppression, but giving those plants a boost that leaf mould may not do. I'll work green materials in for about a year (or unless we get it so full that it absolutely can't hold any more) then setup another swimming pool composter up. On appx April 2018, the plan is to collect compost from the first bin. On appx April 2019, I'll collect compost from the 2nd bin. Then, April 2020, from the first bin, and on and on. Meanwhile, I'm slowly building up a small farm, with rabbits, cows, chickens, and eventually, ducks, possibly turkeys, etc. Rabbit poop = instant garden fertilizer + worm food, for vermicomposting, to collect worm castings for the garden, and the worms themselves could feed some fish, for a future aquaponics setup. Cow, chicken, duck, and turkey poop will be composted. As of right now, it's all about slowly moving forward, to try to obtain a balance, where everything works together.