Horse manure questions
saldut
11 years ago
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jeannie2009
11 years agopfzimmerman
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Soil impaction, horse manure, chicken manure
Comments (5)Many garden centers sell inexpensive pH test kits. They're fun, and simplify all that pH stuff. Your manure and organic matter (and the life forms they support) will nudge it toward neutral over time, and it can be interesting to watch. Fall is the best time for serious liming. Permanent pathways provide habitat for earthworms, ground beetles, etc, and give you some access regardless of the weather. For temporary access to some areas, you also can lay boards on the ground and stand on the boards. If you planned to use your wheat as a cover crop, you'll need to take it down 2-3 weeks before you need the space, or you can pull it up and let it dry into mulch, or compost it. In mild winter climates, actively growing wheat does not go down without a little bit of a fight. Back to the permanent pathways. You can sow them with legumes and well-behaved grasses, and mow them to make mulch for the beds or rows next to them. It's a cool system. Picture it -- next year, a ribbon of crimson clover laced with blue bachelor buttons leads you to your beautiful [fill in blank] and you feel so happy! Here is a link that might be useful: my website...See MoreHorse manure question from a noob
Comments (9)How much material is there? Depending on your air temps 18 inches is a bit shallow to get the pile to heat up to any degree, it might, but 36-48 inches is better. In a no wind situation, the greatest heat loss is through the top so a bit thicker is better. It has to be moist, if it's too dry it takes longer to break down, if its too wet it won't get the air it needs, sorry, pretty wishy washy answer. Tarp may be good idea once the pile is moist but don't seal it in Zip Lock bags or anything. As far as lasagna beds, never built one so I am not the guy to take advice from on that. But personally, I would rather not grow vegetables in uncomposted animal manure. Sorry, I should say I would rather not eat vegetables grown in uncomposted animal manure. Now I bet some of the stuff in the grocery store is grown in that manner, I'll just pretend I don't know that. Given two months and some management (monitor moisture, turn once or twice) I'm guessing that pile will decompose nicely as long as your weather allows it. (mine won't, too cold) One more question, it looks like it is really well mixed, did the farmer guy mix it somehow before he brought it? Be kinda cool if I could drop by to look at it, I am considering "borrowing" a truck load of horse crap to mix with some leaves and shredded wheat straw to try in the tumblers as an experiment. Lloyd...See MoreCompost and Lime question
Comments (4)Lime is not needed in any compost pile. The idea that it might be needed comes from old mythical folklore that because Oak leaves are acidic (my tests years ago told me 3.7 pH) but since Maple leaves (pH 3.2), Beech leaves(pH 3.3), Chestnut leaves (pH 3.2) are just as acidic why would lime not be needed with those? The manure you have may have had lime added to aid in control of flies. For those of us that can remember the old dug outhouses some may remember that lime was sprinkled on the "stuff" down there to help control flies....See Morehorse manure, cow manure, lasagna garden...
Comments (4)When I did, in my ignorance, add animal manures to the garden beds without first composting those manures, I did see an increase in "weeds" and it made no difference if it was manure from dairy cows, horses, pigs, goats, sheep, llamas or alpacas, unless it was dehydrated manure. It seems the heat used to dry that manure was enough to kill any "weed" seeds. Since the easiest method to keep these "weed" seeds out of the garden is to compost the manure first it simply makes sense to do that, along with all the other very good reasons to compost manure before applying it to your garden soil....See Morestrawchicago z5
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