Been using it for 60 years - and it works. How can you argue with success?
Manure makes sense -it provides slow release of fertilizer and has other nutrients - it's basically what's been available for millenia . I've used bagged composted (cow)manure and it worked well.
The thing that would make me uncomfortable is "fairly fresh". Horse manure heats up pretty hot, pretty fast. Maybe it's composted by the time he gets it? It's relatively light once it breaks down. A foot and a half plus seems deep, does he rake it all off in the spring?
If you're thinking of doing this, I'd do exactly what he does.
Went to Home Depot to pick up Wilt Pruf and found out it was nearly $10 for a little spray bottle. I'm a fool for figs, but I passed. Why are you still out on it? Has anyone used anything else? Dormant oil spray?

He puts it on when cold weather arrives--like what's going to happen later in the week, here. From the 60's (F) at present, down to the 40.s (F), daytime. He doesn't use manure right out of the horse's arse, but I think it's no more than a month or two old--it definitely still has heat. I thinks that's his plan, and I think his timing may be right--it probably acts as a mulch and also gives off some heat. When Spring comes, and it's more readily absorbed into the soil, it's pretty much broken down (after 4 or 5 months out in the elements). He just leaves it there, and it very well may jump-start his trees.
Of course I know people who swear by Wilt-Pruf, but I've never thought it a big deal--hasn't seemed to help much, for me. I've put it on half my figs, and left the other half without it, and one seemed no better (or worse)than the other, when Winter was over. And, as you mention, the price is definitely off-putting. I've been told it's nothing but thinned pine-tar. 'Course it's much cheaper by the quart, if thinned pine-tar is your cup of tea. Dormant oil spray is a horse of a different color--it's not to conserve moisture, as pine-tar coatings are.

He just leaves it there? I know the stuff breaks down, but over the long run, wouldn't you eventually be growing on a hill (LOL)? Those can't be the original 60 year old trees, are they?
If something works and it's "comfortable" (biggie), I'm all for it. Just have to make sure you get it right!
As for the dormant oil - I suppose if you could use it to conserve moisture, they would be shouting it from the rooftops. Especially considering how much Wilt Pruf is being sold ($$$). My line of thought was that it forms a film - conserving moisture? I still have some of the "old" type (heavier) that was left when I started using the "new" lighter type. (Yes, I never throw anything away - never know when it will come in handy! And yes, I know that the "new" type has been out for decades.) But since I already have it (both "new" and "old"), it would be much more economical.
But then, if putting something on doesn't make much of a difference, why bother? I overwinter in an insulated garage and have never used an anti-dessicant. But I just got in some bareroot fig trees and am a little jittery.

I've never found equine (have to include my donkey) pooh to be as hot as bovine. It probably has to do with going straight through the gut. It dries to a perfect mulch and I have been using it regularly for years on all my plants including the lawn. I plan on using it on my figs in the field too.
Also, my equines are only fed hay (oat or beardless wheat) and they do graze on pasture so their pooh is very 'clean'- I mean at least I know what is in it.... no supplements, chemicals, antibiotics or systemic fly repellents. The only drawback is the seed will germinate into gorgeous oat, wheat or rye grass which can then be turned into the ground for more nutrients- but of course not around the figs as the roots (learned from this forum) are shallow.
Poop pathologist signing off-
take care,
Christy

10-4, on the bareroot trees; but if you pot them up, the soil/soilless mix should protect them in your garage. If the temperature doesn't get cold enough to (consistently) freeze the medium you've put them in, you'll probably notice when you take them out in Spring, that they have taken root in the mix over Winter. It's happened in my unheated basement at a temperature range of 25-40 degrees (F), or so.
Regarding the Wilt-Pruf (for those who are determined to use it), and those $10 spray bottles you spoke of, you lose about 50% of it in overspray, while you're attempting to coat the fig tree. They sell concentrated quarts for about $20. I made a post here, about this time last year, advising people to buy a quart and use one of those small, foam, throwaway (homeowner) "paint-brushes" sold at Home Depot (and similar stores). It's definitely the most cost-efficient way to apply the stuff. The quart is concentrated, and for Winter protection advises to dilute 1 part WP with 5 parts water, so it makes 6 quarts (which goes QUITE a way). I actually did it to about 60 figs last year--pruned them back, and applied the stuff with the foam "brush" I mentioned. I left 60 more with nothing on them, and this Spring, they all looked the same to me (though we had a fairly mild Winter). Even put an extra coat of WP about mid-way through Winter. By the way, I happen to have some extra Wilt-Pruf. If you (or anyone else reading this) is interested, and wants to pay the postage and send me a nice rooted cutting, or two, maybe we can make make a trade. I think I have 6 or 8 concentrated quarts, out of a case that was given to me. I also have a dozen, or so, quart spray-bottles (already diluted, naturally) out of another case given me. Lady-friend owns a garden-supply, and gave them to me last year--I know I'll never use them all (even though pine-tar will probably last forever). Quart spray bottles have $11.99 price tags on them, and concentrated quarts have $19.99, on them (her store's price). No doubt the Post Office would benefit most from such a trade, as the concentrated quarts weigh about 2 1/4 pounds, and the spray bottles 1 1/2 pounds, so would cost a few bucks to send. Just a thought--I'll find out from the P.O. how much they cost to send, to see if it's worthwhile.

I have an hypothesis as to why this works.
For one, he piles 30 day old manure on top of the ground, and although the manure is hot, it never actually comes in contact with the growing roots of the fig tree. The heat produced by the manure keeps the ground warm around the area and helps raise the temperature of the air above it (as heat rises).

Also, his trees are doing great because this method has helped produce a strong root system. When winter comes, although the tree is dormat, roots continue to grow. At lower temperatures, the roots grow slower. But with his method, the ground temperature is kept warm, and thus encourage faster root growth. Perhaps he is able to ripen two crops of figs because his trees root system is capable of providing nurishment for it.

Mary, Thanks for this valuable post. I will definately try it, although I don't have any fresh manure. I can only buy the pre-composted steer manure which might not be hot. = (

Maybe, I'll try to use fresh chopped green compost, and put a huge pile of it. Then mix it with part composted steer manure after the tree goes dormat. That is the best I can do to produce heat.

jonathan: I totally agree with you--and I believe that the manure not only allows the roots to GROW, it also warms the surface of the soil enough to allow them to take up moisture--something they cannot do properly when the ground is frozen. That's my theory, too, as to why he has such great success.
fignut: Yes, those are the same 4 figs his father planted 60 years ago. I happen to know of others in the area that have been in place that long, and a few that were planted at the turn of the (20th) century, according to their owners--whose fathers planted them, then.
christyfiglover: By the way, the figs at my house are definitely not shallow-rooted. I have super-hardy outdoor-figs for my area, and they have a VERY deep tap root. Of course they have many shallow, small-diameter "feeder" roots (my word for them) close to the surface, too. For an example: In the Spring of 2004, I planted about 80 cuttings from two very old hardy trees in my area. About 80% of them "took", and grew on. I meant to pot them up in the early Spring of 2005, whle they were still dormant, but I got called away for 3 weeks, or so, and they broke dormancy while I was gone. When I got back, they were in full leaf, so I didn't want to dig them then--knowing I would set them all back, and probably kill them. So I had to wait 'til the Spring of 2006 (this past Spring) to dig and pot them, while they were dormant. I could not believe the depth of the tap roots on all of them; many 3 feet deep, or more. I had to cut ALL the tap roots, to get them in 2-foot deep pots. Digging those 60 fig trees, spaced about 2 feet apart, each way, was one of the most difficult things I've ever done--it took WEEKS. Most lived through the ordeal, but some didn't make it. I'm wondering whether those potted figs, whose taproots I cut off, will ever replace the taproots, when replanted in the ground??

That's interesting. I didn't realize figs would continue root growth while dormant. I know other plants do (why fall planting is such a good idea), but I kind of thought of figs as a hot weather kind of plant that shuts down. Never considered it.
That changes things. My big concern with overwintering just potted bareroot trees has more to do with moisture in the pots than cold temps. Heavily rooted plants seem to regulate water better - even while dormant. The channels through the soil that the roots make maybe? What I have here is kind of an "overpotting" situation. I have enough roots for the size pot, but they are all in one spot, basically, surrounded by a mass of water retentive soiless mix. Not a healthy situation - making me nervous - the pots are sodden. I've actually started wicking some of the moisture out with clay pots and paper towels.
I've overwintered very successfully in the garage - even when temps dropped to 10*F in there. The only time I had a number of plants die was early on, when they seemed dry in late winter/early spring, and I gave them a drink. A number died. I know it was the water because I also "helped out" some hosta I had in the garage with a drink and lost them also, and they are dead hardy. Never did that again.
The problem is finding a place cool enough to keep them below 40* F. Anyone have any experience overwintering at higher temps (40* +)? If I go this route, I'd probably want to take you up on the Wilt Pruf. Thanks for the offer.
Another benefit of a deep horse manure mulch might also be in preserving roots. Many roots are right at soil level (probably why it got the reputation for being shallow rooted) and low temps and fluctuations (freeze-thaw) might do damage. So not only would you have new root growth, but probably also root preservation. This manure mulch sounds better and better.
I think there is a little misunderstanding about horse manure. When I say it's hot I mean that it heats up when composted, not that it "burns" roots. Old time market gardeners in Canada used to use it to produce melons. They dug a pit, covered it with a cold frame and put in very fresh horse manure and a layer of soil. Planted melons in the soil very early and got a big start on the season using the heat from the manure. I'm not sure where it ranks in "burn" potential - I'll believe Christy's assertion that it's less "burny" than cow - sounds like she's talking from experience (How great to have your own manure sources).
It would be helpful to know just how old the manure your friend gets actually is. Probably through the hottest part of the process? I have a friend with large manure making machines (Clydesdales)and could get some, but would want to make sure I'm reproducing the conditions your friend has.

Today, I went to the green recycling company, and got a entire car load of newly fine shredded green mulch, which was free.
When I got home, I took the mulch and made huge piles of 4 feet high mulch, and surrounded each of my 25 gallon potted containers with it. This way, the potted fig plant would be in the very center of the huge pile where it is constantly warmed by the mulch over winter.

I've also decided to take all my fruit peels (mostly banana) and scrapings and bury it slightly into the mulch just right above where I think the roots will be. This way, the nutrients can wash into the root zone and help it grow, while the heat produced by the composting keeps the large pots warm.

What ya think?

jonathan, There are a couple of concerns: attracting critters with a free lunch (fruit), and putting your trees (I got the impression that they are immersed in the mulch) in contact with material that is in a pretty "raw" state and producing all kinds of products besides heat. I'd feel comfortable just surrounding the pots with it, but not the whole tree.
I've gotten the impression from what Marylandmojo has said that the horse manure is in the later stages of composting, not just starting, and as such, is probably more benign.
You might actually have access to horse manure. Around here it is considered undesirable for gardens because of the weeds (as Christy mentioned) and people with horses generally can't sell it (or even give it away). The ads selling manure all specify "cow". If you look for a stable, or ask if any friends have friends with horses you might be able to get some for free.

fignut, I'm actually in the city of San Francisco, so I'm not sure how I can come by any horse manure without a lot of hassle. I do know that I can get pre composted steer manure from Lowes or Home Depot cheap. But I can also get fresh compost or old compost for free from a recycling center.

I'm not worry about critters getting free lunch on my fruit peels. I'm buring it into the soil under the tree, so at best it'll feed the earthworms, plus provide other nutrients that I don't know about to the tree as it breaks down.

And yes, I have to watch the temperature, and make sure it is a stable 20-35 C max. I don't want it to burn the roots near the ground or the bark. Thats why my mounds aren't so wide and high. So they wouldn't reach peak temperature. But that also means it wouldn't kill any weeds and criters while composting. I'll let nature take care of itself.

fignut: As I mentioned previously, the manure is not right out of the horse's arse, but a month or two old--still WORKING, (dispensing heat). I doubt, in the cold of Winter, it would burn ANYTHING, even if it were fresh. Cold (Winter) ground absorbs small amounts of nutrients, I would imagine. The important point seems to be that it provides enough warmth to keep the surface roots from being frozen, and possibly allows them to take up moisture (which they could not do if the surface was frozen). Also, regarding your description of the starting of melons in manure: do you also know that's how Sweet Potato "slips" (plants) are started?? Few do. Sweet Potatoes originated in Africa, if memory serves, and they need HOT weather. I plant most summer vegetables in May, here, (corn, tomatoes, squash, beans, etc., etc.), but I plant Sweet Potatoes in June. I start them in May in a bed of relatively fresh manure, as my father and grandfather did before me. The heat from the manure causes them to sprout, and the starts, or "slips", are planted, to grow on and become Sweet Potato vines. So manure definitely has a place in cultural practices of different vegetables and fruits. Why would one buy Sweet Potato plants at exhorbitant prices when they can place a Sweet Potato in manure and grow their own???
jonathan: What you're doing seems copesthetic to me, but be careful of rodents. Even without the peels, etc., rabbits are notorious for gnawing Fig bark--believe me, I know. And mice and voles are notorious for living outdoors amongst mulch, for the warming effect it provides through Winter. I posted here a few years ago about Voles that got into my basement and ate 35 (potted) Figs--not just gnawing the bark, but eating the ENTIRE plants, and roots. One must be on a constant vigil for vermin, indoors or outdoors. Outdoors, I try and protect all Figs from rodents, with the use of hardware cloth to exclude them from my Fig plantings, particularly if I have mulch around them (which they are drawn to for the warmth it provides). Indoors, I put potted figs IN galvanized tubs, where rodents can't get to them (they'll chew right through plastic).

Marylandmojo, I didn't know about the sweet potato slips being started that way - interesting. If you think about it, that process could probably be used on a variety of heat lovers, both at the beginning of the growing season and at the end (like your friend).
The reply to jonathan's post was not a concern about heat. The manure is still working, but it seems it is through the initial "hottest" stages. What your friend does works (60 years of experience). Changing things should be done on an experimental basis - and very carefully. Having a raw compost pile (of any kind - really fresh manure included) covering a fig tree, or any other plant, with the attendant humid conditions and byproducts, makes me very uncomfortable. Maybe it would work during cold weather, but I wouldn't bet all my trees on it. I'd go very slow, there is more than just heat to consider.
That being said, jonathan does seem to be monitoring the situation closely, and it will be very interesting to see the results. It's great that so many fig growers get to the final goal in so many different ways.
I did have another question. You had said that protection in your area is "helpful". Does your friend protect his trees, and if so, how?

fignut; That IS his protection--manure, and nothing else, here in zone 6b-7a. That's why I made the post; he has hardy trees, and manure gets them through the Winter with little damage. They ALWAYS make a nice crop, and this past year (after a fairly-mild Winter for this area), he also had a Breba crop!

marylandmojo, You mention super-hardy fig varieties, what varieties do you grow?.....Elder