Looking for heat-tolerant roses--
bethsmom
16 years ago
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dublinbay z6 (KS)
16 years agojerijen
16 years agoRelated Discussions
heat-tolerant container roses?
Comments (7)The main issue with your heat is the size and type of container you're intending to use. There IS a great difference between the heat tolerance of the various types. Plant roots want cool, damp, dark conditions in which to live. Clay and ceramic are cooking utensils. You can actually buy cookware made out of those materials. They're very efficient as they absorb, retain and radiate heat for a long time. Plastic, foam, wood even concrete containers vary in their heat efficiency with foam, wood and concrete providing the most insulation from the direct heat of the sun's rays as well as the air and reflected surface heat. For a deck, you probably want the lightest material available to reduce the load and damage to the surface and structure. I would definitely suggest the largest containers you can handle and find, and definitely wooden or foam types as the first choice, with plastic used as a distant third. Think of the roots as perishable, requiring an ice chest to insulate them from heat damage. The material you choose should provide that heat insulation to prevent direct cooking of the roots against the container sides, as well as the heat cooking all of the soil moisture from the root ball and eventually damaging or even killing the plant. You may be able to successfully grow a hybrid tea in a seven gallon container without that extra heat, so you might want to consider at least a ten gallon, perhaps even a fifteen gallon container for the same rose on the deck. You are probably also going to consider a saucer under the pot to reduce the water damage and staining to the deck surface, but that is likely not a good idea for the plant. All of the dissolved "salts" in the water, plus those already in the soil and any fertilizers are going to reduce, concentrate, in the saucer and, hence, the soil like over cooking a soup or sauce too long, making them saltier and saltier until the concentration becomes toxic, even fatal for the plant. If you need to use a saucer under the pot, you'd be best served by filling it with gravel so there is some room for the drain water while the soil is kept out of it so none of the increasingly salty water is drawn back up into the roots. I think you'll find if you stagger the pot sizes with smaller ones, containing more heat tolerant plant types, in front of the larger pots, you can also reduce the direct and radiated heat effects on the larger pots. Some people plant other plants in with the roses, which isn't my preference. A vigorously growing plant needs all the moisture it can get. Most of the time, a pot becomes too restricted in size and water holding capabilities. Adding any other roots to that soil ball increases the competition between the plants and increases the necessity for you to water more often. As for which specific varieties of roses are more "heat tolerant", the most suitable information for you will come from those who grow them in similar arid heat to yours. A humid 100 degrees is far different from an arid 100 degrees. You can successfully grow "sun azaleas" in hot, humid sun. They will NOT grow in my arid, hot sun of similar recorded temperature even with properly amended soil, adjusted fertilizer and water levels. That humidity can make all the difference in the world whether a petal endures the heat, or simply fries. You'll find very, very few roses have petals which will endure full, triple digit sun exposure, particularly in a container which is significantly hotter than what the surrounding soil temperatures are just a few inches under ground. Also keep in mind that the air temps might be one level, but the reflected, radiated heat from the deck surface can easily increase the surrounding heat dramatically, sometimes an easy twenty degrees, or more, during the most intense part of the day. That's what enables people in cooler/colder climates to successfully grow more tender plant types in pots and against walls where the heat is greater and lasts longer. Of course, these are all choices and decisions you'll need to make and all are up to you. But, knowing some of the considerations to keep in mind, permits you to make the ones best suited for the plants you want and your "gardening style", time and energy. Good luck! Kim...See MoreHeat Tolerant Roses ??? What's in Your Garden??
Comments (64)Desertgarden, it still is "hot" here in October with temps ranging from 90--100 or so. It doesn't start to cool off until towards the end of October. October is what I call our up and down season. Nice weather one day and then the next it is hot. Then bam, come November 1st, it cools off dramatically. Usually by the end of November is it cold (cold being a relative term for me). We can have nights below freezing by the end of November and daytime highs in the 50's. Oh, and of course, our lovely fog season starts then. Can't see your hand in front of your face. That is when we have our 100-200 car pile ups on the freeways as people drive like they can see in the fog--which they can't. This year, we shall see how La Nina hits us. Last time we had a La Nina, we had snow for a couple of days with temps not above 28 degrees. Really bad on the citrus we grow here. Not looking forward to that again. Went to bed last night about 9:15 and it was still 94 degrees outside. After a week of 109--113, we are supposed to cool off to the low 100's. I think it is only going to be 103 today and they may be right since at 5 am this morning it is only 76 degrees. Roses are still pumping out blooms. Pretty Jessica, Blue for You, Eyes for You, Peppermint Parfait, Occhi di Fata, Candice, Wedding Cake (those blooms last forever on the bush) and Midnight Blue....See MoreNeed Advice- Most Heat Tolerant OGR Class or Top Roses
Comments (44)There's a thread on Mons tiller fries in the sun, see below: "Mine fried after an hour or two in the sun, more so than my other tea roses so it's no longer with me in my hot garden. Clementina Carbonieri did the same thing. A pity, since both are beautiful roses. Ingrid." ***** From Straw: I'm adding own-root Yves Piaget on my rose-order for next year, along with Young Lycidas and Romantica "The McCartney" rose. I researched again on Yves Piaget: the person who grows Yves both as own-root vs. grafted reported wimpiness for both. Someone from PNW (rainy & cool) climate also reported Yves being wimpy. Robert Rippetoe in his Rancho Mirage climate of exreme heat, drought, and alkaline sandy soil .... grows Yves Piaget and uses it in his breeding program ... so it must be very good for him. I figured out what makes Romanticas works: fluffy potting soil for the roots to get big, then transfer to fertile clay. I have Yves Piaget's children bred by Robert Neil, I put gypsum in the pots, and they went beserk with growth. Ingrid in this forum once grew Yves, but it didn't do well in the heat ... she has loose de-composed granite soil high in potassium. That's different from Ingrid in Thousand Oaks, who has clay. According to Wikipedia, high potassium or high nitrogen drives down calcium. The Romanticas have a higher demand for calcium than other roses, they are very sensitive to salt, so saline soil is not suitable. Calcium in gypsum is used to de-salt saline soil. That explains why Mons.Tillier works for Jaspermplants in Arizona, but didn't work for Ingrid with high-potassium soil. Arizona is alkaline clay high in calcium like my Chicagoland clay ... I'm next to a limestone quarry. Calcium is known to firm up tissue of plants, and helps with drought-tolerance, which explains for the success of Romanticas in my limestone clay. Here's an excerpt on calcium from the site http://www.oxyfertil.com/royaume-uni/role-ca-mg-plante.html · increases the plant tissues' resistance and allows for more erect stems · contributes to normal root system development · increases resistance to outside attack Here is a link that might be useful: Does your Mons. Tillier fry in the sun? This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Fri, Jul 12, 13 at 10:58...See MoreHeat-tolerant, tough purple rose... ID ideas?
Comments (29)Well my goodness: I didn't know there were two 'Russelliana's. Looking at the photos on HMF I find myself wondering though whether they aren't confused in commerce, because the two varieties sure do look alike in many of their photos. I need to go and study the foliage on mine. I seem to be in the business, on this thread, of shooting down hypotheses. Here's another shot: the true Centifolias, all their various sports and forms, are prickly lanky plants and most definitely not thornless, as I know to my cost from working with them. By the way, in asking about the habit I had the parent plant in mind. I confess I haven't read this thread as carefully as I would need to to make thoroughly responsible contributions, but purplish old roses in my mental files fall into two main categories: the shrubs with some near or remote Gallica blood, generally shrubby; and the rambling purple Multifloras. In the first case smooth canes would lead me toward hybrid Gallicas and Hybrid Perpetuals, as others have suggested; the latter, well, I just said. I would read up on foliage. There may be any number of holes in this reasoning. P.S. I went to look at that purplish Centifolia through the link. I don't know it, and if it's a hybrid it could differ from the basic Centifolia style. I believe, though, that 'Pompon de Bourgogne' is a true Centifolia, that is, prickly....See Moremohavemaria
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