These south beach diet things have driven me to distraction for months too, along w/the obnoxious talking/singing wheat thins advert. And often closing them out either doesn't work or locks up my system. I'm on dial-up and NetZero doesn't support Firefox, so I'm stuck. On the upside, I'm learning to be more patient since I do want to read GWC.

Did the previous owners get away with not having MUA? Might be because they installed the commercial stuff a long time ago and nobody asked about MUA. If the house is big enough and old enough, it might have been "leaky" enough that an MUA system was not needed. Or, the previous owners may very well have installed a make-up air system and it may have been the kind that was integrated with the commercial hood. The realtor should know or be able to find out from the previous owners. If that does not work, then you'll have to go looking for it because there are numbers of different kinds of MUA systems for commercial hoods. Some can even be part of the hood system. If you are interested, here's a resource that illustrates and discusses different kinds of commercial MUA systems which may give you some hints of where to look for MUA in your newly acquired kitchen. . http://www.fishnick.com/ventilation/designguides/CKV_Design_Guide_2_031504.pdf Also, check out Kaseki's clippings page. As for who you need for building/designing/installing an MUA system, there is no simple answer because it is not a one-size-fits-all or one-stop-shop kind of thing. The short answer to any MUA question will always be "it depends." If you live in a warm climate, MUA might be as simple as opening a window when you run the hood above 400 cfm. Or you might be able use a "MUA damper." There's a current thread on these. Here's the link: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0313214523464.html If you live in the great northland of cold winters (say, Minnesota) or in a place where air-conditioning is the norm for months (say, Phoenix), the MUA thing may involve air exchangers which gets a lot more complicated and expensive. About all I can suggest is that you look at the many postings about MUA over the last couple of years. A search using "kaseki + mua" should get you a lot of threads to look at. This post was edited by JWVideo on Sun, Mar 24, 13 at 1:54

We're done! Okay, nothing is ever really done. I have some machine modifications planned. The pretty Italian espresso ware and coffeegeek paraphernalia are yet to come. And the Italian decor remains to be gathered. But the modifications will be hidden or well-integrated, all the paraphenalia must live tucked away behind doors, and SWMBO is probably not going to permit too much Italian schtick on the walls. So the look of the northwest corner of my dining room - sorry, her dining room - is about like it's going to be. Elektra #1, what we're calling La Macchina now, lives on a 42" sideboard from the "Historic Charleston" collection by Baker Furniture. I couldn't believe I found this piece, which fits the spot perfectly, matches the existing sideboard, and is allegedly from a old Portland hotel (I have my doubts), so quickly and so cheaply. Facebook Marketplace, folks: its a real competitor to Craigslist. The piece is sturdy, but long legged furniture still wobbles when used as a workstation for a 150 lb machine. So I built a sturdy wood shelf, 6" deep, and screwed it to the wall. The rear legs of the machine rest on the shelf and the front legs on the sideboard. It hardly moves now. Future project: paint the shelf white, bolt the sideboard to the shelf, and leash the machine to the shelf. That will be for even more rigidity and also as an earthquake precaution. I brought a 240v 30A circuit, a 120v 15A circuit, a 3/8" o.d. polyethylene water supply line, and a 1/2" o.d. poly drain line, up through the built-in cabinet to the left of the machine. Yes, I (carefully) cut holes in the century-old cabinet, but you can't see them unless you look inside or are standing in the corner of the room, where the machine lives. The 240v line powers Elektra #1, is wired through a timer, and currently the machine is automatically switched off at night and on at 4 am. During the day, it heats the house :-) The 120v line runs the grinder. The water supply line goes through a pressure regulator and a water filter, in the basement, before coming up into the cabinet. We have extremely soft water in Portland so no water softener is needed. The pressure regulator is meant to lower line pressure to 2-3 bar (30-45 psi). Future project: add a pressure gauge so I can set the regulator accurately. The drain line goes out the bottom of the bumpout where the cabinet lives, and waters a soon-to-be very energetic rosemary plant. Hopefully rosemary likes acidic soil. I had a problem with the drain line icing up, but a change to its routing has solved that. The Elektra itself is slated for some future projects: PID temperature control, grouphead temperature gauges, LED "barista lights", replace the missing hot water valve, preinfusion switch. There is some polishing to be done, and we still have not decided whether to install the side panels. A new coffeegeek friend will help me replace and align the Elektra grinder burrs. Future project: add a darkroom timer so I can push a button to automatically grind the desired amount of coffee. All the "stuff", like knockbox, tamping pad, scale, bar towels, etc are hidden away in the sideboard's cabinets and drawer. When I use the machine, a bar towel is placed over the sideboard's front edge to protect the wood. For now, I'm talking a break on the Future Projects and trying to learn how to use all this hardware. There is a steep learning curve. I can't properly steam milk yet. My bottomless portafilter pours look horrid a third of the time. I'm sticking to darker roasts for now; light roasts proved beyond me. But I can usually produce a drinkable cappucino, and SWMBO has become accustomed to, and indeed insistent upon, a daily morning cappa - which she takes in bed - as well as on-call cappas upon demand. All in all, she has generally acceded to the large metal thing in her dining room and is planning to make us sets of espresso, cappucino, and latte cups. When she does that, I'll know La Macchina is really part of the family.

@opaone: your numbers, while still higher than my estimates, are at least within an order of magnitude, which in this business probably is reasonable correlation. I agree that this could rise to a significant concern with 10 people really cranking away in a poorly ventilated room. So we're on the same wavelength. @spurpura: you are correct in that I've not invested in air quality monitoring devices or hired PhD's to test my house. But my calculations are grounded in simple physics. The only assumption I have made is in the estimate of CO2 production during exercise, and that was from an academic sports physiology laboratory, authored by a PhD and published in a peer-reviewed journal. If you have figures showing that CO2 production during exercise is roughly 10 times higher than my estimate (which is what would be needed to support your observations), I'll await the citation. There are really only three possible scenarios: You are measuring local concentrations of CO2, presumably close to where you are exhaling. Your PhD consultants and their equipment are wrong. There's an exogenous unidentified source of CO2 infiltrating your exercise room. Enough of that dead end discussion. But...as to your original question, I think you're on the right track. As noted upthread, our 1200 cfm hood runs through a straight run of 10" duct, about 25' upwards, with an attic-mounted Fantech LD10 silencer and FKD10XL blower. It measures 60db (LCS weighted, ear level, roughly 4' from baffles) on high. So we hit the mark you are shooting for and I expect your setup will too. Good luck!